Using an indicator lamp with 120v

I want a simple on/off indicator for a switch that's controlling an outlet. It sounds like a neon indicator lamp is the way to go. What I'm wondering is if the amps pulled by whatever I have plugged in could fry the bulb. Or do they have a resistor built in to the lamps to protect against this? If not, should I include something?

Also, should the lamp be wired in series or parallel FROM the switch? Btw, would using an LED be more hassle (wiring)?

Thanks! Kevin

Reply to
kevreh
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I'm

fry

If you use a neon indicator in parallel with the switch (from one side to the other), it will light when the switch is off and there is something plugged into the outlet which is turned on. The neon indicator bulb should have a 100K resistor in series for 120VAC operation. Some are built in, others are not.

-Bill

Reply to
Bill Bowden

Dumb question, but would the resistor be before or after the lamp (I'm guessing before since its their to prevent excess amperage from being pulled).

Reply to
kevreh

Are you sure? I was planning on taking the hot FROM the switch to one lead of the lamp and a neutral lead that supplies the outlet to the other lead of the lamp. My terminoligy isn't all that great so some of what I'm saying may be misleading :o)

Reply to
kevreh

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They can\'t.
Reply to
John Fields

Would an illuminated wall switch suffice? Leviton makes these...

Mike

Reply to
Mike

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If you left a little of the previous message in your reply it would
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Reply to
John Fields

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Reply to
John Fields

The traditional 120V neon pilot assembly is apparently obsolete - the stores group at work used to stock them, but last time I bought one, I was surprised to find that it contained an LED! for pilot light use, the LED version works as a direct replacement for the original neon part, but someone depending on the neon characteristic could be in for a rude surprise.

(This change was particularly surprising, as my boss and I are supposed to be consulted for any changes to part numbers or suppliers, and neither of us new of the change.)

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Reply to
Peter Bennett

Not so sure about that. I understand and respect electricity, just a bit fuzzy on the right words to describe the concept I'm trying to explain.

This is intimidating but not helpfull, especially for a forum about basic electronics. Am I supposed to give up on this project? Why don't you share your insight on the SAFE way to proceed raise the bar on the quality of this discussion.

Again, the group is titled "BASIC"

Reply to
kevreh
[snip]

No, you're supposed to get yourself to a community college, and take a short course in electric/electronic circuits so you can understand what we're talking about when we use the

*basic* terminology in the subject. It doesn't get much more basic than schematic/series/parallel/resistor/ground/hot/ electrocution.

I just did. Find a night course at a local high school offering a beginner's look at electr(on)ic circuits.

Preferably with hands-on experiments, wiring practice and reading of schematics.

Just like with BASIC physics, BASIC calculus and BASIC carpentry, you're expected to have some familiarity with BASIC math, BASIC equations and BASIC power tools before you attempt any of the above.

Don't cop an attitude, pal. Get to a beginner's class, and build the birdhouse before you attempt the two-storey, split-level bungalow.

120 volts can *KILL*. 120 volts can *burn your house to the ground.* Or both.

You've been warned.

Reply to
Randy Day

The indicator needs to be parallel to the load.

You can use an LED by using a diode pointing in the other direction in parallel with it, and a resistor to drop the current to something managable...

A 1/2W 100k resistor will drop the current to 170/100k = 1.7mA peak. The dissipation in the resistor will be 120^2/100k = 144mW.

You also should use a 1/8A fuse. You can get ones that look like little resistors that will work perfectly for this.

Line --- fuse ---- resistor --- antiparallel LEDs --- Neutral

Line is the little rectangular hole, Neutral is the big rectangular hole.

Make sure Neutral is within 10VAC of the big round hole, ie, ground. If not, don't do this, and call an electrician.

US 120VAC ONLY WITHOUT EXPLICIT INFORMATION FROM COUNTRY IN QUESTION.

.-------. 100k 1/4W | | _ ___ -----| | | |-o \\_/o--|___|----o------. | | | | | | | | | 1/8 A | | | | o | V - LEDs or Diodes | | | - ^ One Up | '-------' | | One Down | | | | | | | | |--------|----------------------o------' | | | _ | | / \\ | ----(_/_)---| \\_/

AC Meter Should Read < 10VAC

Tape everything upstream of the 100k resistor (created by AACircuit v1.28 beta 10/06/04

formatting link

If the LEDs aren't bright enough, you can use a lower value resistor. Be careful, however, about dissipation. The formula for heat generated is

V^2/R

So, as R decreases, the heat increased. 1/2 R will double the heat, meaning a bigger (1/2W maybe?) resistor.

A 47k resistor in place of the 100k resistor would dissipate about

300mW, so a 1/4W resistor wouldn't work.
--
Regards,
   Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
     - Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
        on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.
Reply to
Robert Monsen

It is also useful to know the prefixes in the number system and the most common units. 975mhz means nothing. 975mHz means 975 milliherz, 975MHz means 975 million Herz, 1 kHz means 1000 Herz, etc..

Learn the prefixes kilo, Mega, milli, micro, nano, deci, etc.. and how to use them.

Learn some basics about Ohms law, series and parallell, etc..

Don't touch any voltage above 40 Volt until you know a lot more about electronics and safety precautions.

It is all available at any public library in the world, or through internet.

--
Roger J.
Reply to
Roger Johansson

"kevreh" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Kevin,

Your questions show an extreme lack of knowledge and experience. So to stay on the safe side do not work directly on the mains outlet of your house. Use a plug and a cable to connect your signaling outlet to the wall outlet. Build your lanp, switch and outlet close together and make sure nobody can touch the live wire when you put your plug into the wall outlet. As for the switch, lamp and outlet: lamp and outlet parallel, switch in series with them. If you need the lamp for signaling only, buy a neon type with a build in resistor meant for your local mains voltage. Does not matter how you connect it to the outlet. Once more, be carefull. Live wire is killing.

petrus bitbyter

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Reply to
petrus bitbyter

Sorry if it sounds like I'm "copping an attitude" (I feel like I'm in high school or something). Since this forum is titled BASIC I thought people here would be fine answering what I thought would be basic questions.

There's nothing wrong with taking classes or reading books as you've mentioned. But there's also nothing wrong with reading and learning on discussion groups like this.

Reply to
kevreh

Actually, the number of electrocutions in the US each year is incredibly small. Only 140 contractors who work with electricity on a daily basis (many of whom don't really understand it, above "don't touch that") were killed by it last year.

It's patronizing for me to say it, and I'm sure you are quite careful, but remember to keep one hand in your pocket when you are working on powerline AC.

If you do that, the worst that will probably happen if you get careless is you'll get your hand burned.

It is probably more likely that an old hand will get zapped, due to becoming complacent.

--
Regards,
   Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
     - Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
        on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.
Reply to
Robert Monsen

And if your terminology is bad your understanding of electricity is even worse.

Much of the advice given above, though technically correct, could lead a novice such as yourself to your DEATH.

I never cease to be worried about the technical and complicated answers given on some of these Electrical news groups to absolute novices who are way out of their depth in what they are attempting.

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John G

Wot\'s Your Real Problem?
Reply to
John G

I am sorry, I do not want to be insulting, but you do not have the remotest understanding of even the most basic electric principles when you ask questions, as you did above, like, Is the resistor to stop the load drawing too much power? or Should the lamp be wired in series or parallel? or Should the resistor be before or after the lamp?

Yes this is a Basic group but it is not possible to teach first principles of a subject as complicated as Electricity by answering random questions. Some understanding is first required.

And I repeat, from your very limited knowledge displayed above you hould stay away from even 120volts, it does kill.

--
John G

Wot\'s Your Real Problem?
Reply to
John G

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Geez...

Didn\'t my reply to your original post tell you how to do it?
Reply to
John Fields

I regret ever posting my question here. The feedback I've gotten has reduced me to someone who doesn't know anything about electronics- which is far from the truth.

I'll find my answers elsewhere, as there are many other forums out there that aren't as antagonistic towards someone. Most forums run on the mantra of "there's no dumb questions", however this one seems to thrive on telling people how ignorant they are.

Take care- Kevin

Reply to
kevreh

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