Anti rust device schematic

I think they only work well with boats where the metal parts are always in contact with the water. The idea is simple and only takes an op amp and perhaps driver transistor. You measure the voltage being produced by the galvanic action of dissimilar metals and apply enough current to another electrode to cancel the galvanic voltage.

Unless all the parts are bonded - connected together electrically - it won't work. Unless the electrode and parts being protected aren't wet at the same time by the same electrolyte, it won't work.

If it were that easy - you could just bolt a sacrificial anode (zinc) to the car and be done with it - that technique has worked well for many years in boats.

Things to search for are "active cathodic protection"

I knew a guy with a boat who was paying the dockmaster to look after it. He complained that the zincs, he added, where being eaten away in no time - and plating out on the bronze parts below the water line. So I went out to look at it - it had an active rust prevention scheme already in place. That suggests, to me, that had he had galvanized fittings below the water line they might be eaten away leaving the iron exposed - but I don't know for a fact. I just told him to use one system or the other, but not both.

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Years ago there was a product called "Rust Buster" that was a small impressed current device attached to your battery and having several anodes attached to the autobody parts. IT DID NOT WORK.

For this system to work the vehicle must be submerged > >

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Didn't they turn car batteries around a few years ago because someone discovered that it reduced corrosion of the car body ?

I've seen the device (well a mockup on a coulter) I have no idea how they "polarise the paint" or whatever it is they actually do, or if it works.

Bye. Jasen