For audio and composite video: Don't. If you must, use a resistor to bleed charge, and a small cap for RF bypass if appropriate. Anything more invites ground loop.
Other devices, especially stand-alone equipment that doesn't need to be connected with other grounded devices:
My preference is to use a screw as chassis grounding (or several for RF), using at least a perimeter ground like so,
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which is good enough for single sided, low speed circuits. The perimeter is more for convienience, as you can return grounds to it as you go.
A full ground plane is better:
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(Same board, top side. This serves for illustration purposes.)
Better still, both sides (as above, or):
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Note the screws in four corners, providing extra RF grounding (not visible are the aluminum standoffs grounding the bottom side -- I don't have PTH boards).
Since signal ground is chassis ground, ground loop, RFI and so on are minimized (assuming you didn't royally screw up something else). The circuit is doubly safe, because loose wires short to ground, which is ground ground, which is also safety ground (assuming you go on to use a three wire cord).
Tim
Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk.
Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms
"Wanderer" wrote in message
news:3f577f82-8541-415d-828c-a5cad7dfc0c9@c16g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
> What is the preferred way to tie Chassis Ground to Signal Ground? I've
> seen a number of different ways.
>
> Surround the edge of the board with a chassis ground trace and connect
> through caps to signal ground every couple of inches.
>
> Tie the mounting holes to signal ground with capacitors.
>
> Bring a chassis ground wire from the power supply and tie with a cap
> to the signal ground.
>
> Just tie the chassis ground and signal ground together at one point in
> the power supply.