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remote control *3 WAY* switch

Sears/Craftsman used to market a 3 way switch for controlling a 120VAC load that was triggered by a garage door opener. Mine failed and attempts to debug/repair it have been less than fruitful. It appears as though there are multiple problems with the original unit. I used it to control a 500W spotlight for my driveway/parking area. I cannot seem to locate anything on the market today other than a plug-in, 1 way switch that operates from a common garage door opener signal. I miss the convenience and would like to make one on my own. Basically, the Sears unit utilized a couple of internally triggered triacs switched by a 4013 and an Rx module to change the state of the flip-flop. Other ancillary items on the board merely stepped down the mains voltage to power the Rx module and logic and there are also a half dozen or so small transistors and an inductive coil that my lack of knowledge prevents me from understanding. Question: Any web reference(s) out there that would get me started designing and assembling such a device and perhaps take me right through to completion? I'm sure thousands of people out there could draw just what I need on a napkin in less than a minute. TIA.

Reply to
Dan Durachko
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I'd just use x10 switches. At list prices, $20 for a 3-way master switch and one companion (aka slave) switch. Or if you want the "decorator" style, about $30. Special offers can considerably reduce those prices. To interface to the garage door, you can either hook into the GDO light socket as if it were a slave switch, or modify any of various X10 controllers using your choice of connection to the GDO, or use a "powerflash" module ($20) which accepts either a contact closure or low-voltage to trigger.

Notes: Your 500w load is at the max rating for the cheapest x10 switches. You can get the best deals if you watch for specials at x10.com, but for less annoying marketing, a wider variety of switches, and a nice switch comparison table, see

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Oh, and currently my garage lighting has two 100w bulbs in ceiling boxes which are turned on by either the GDO or by a motion detector. I have several fluorescents controlled by wall switches if I don't want to chance the motion detector and/or GDO timeout or need more light. This means instead of depending on one little bulb on the front of the GDO, I get more light, better bulb life even using normal (not ruggedized) bulbs, and have multiple bulbs (so one burning out doesn't leave me in the dark). Works great. X10 would have been overkill (but I do use X10 in many places).

sdb

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Sylvan Butler

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Dan Durachko

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