refrigerator light

Looks like the lamps are controlled by the "main board". If you can find the main board, you might be able to trace out what is going on. I doubt there is any schematic available for the board.

Take some digital pictures before disconnecting anything so you can put it back as original.

As others have said, check the lamp sockets.

Good luck. I bet a service call will be somewhat costly.

It's a primitive little board, should be able to repair at the component level, if that's even it.

TkU2z8s-

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Something screwy about that schematic because Sears shows two lamp switches plugged into the hinge assemblies at the top of each door. There is nothin g on that so-called diagram.

Hi Win, I think your response is saying "what do you think, I'm stupid, I know how to use Google". Not many hits on your model. OK, from here,

I found the Pcb main (PCB Assembly,Main) Part Number PS3530044 So I searched PS3530044 and found this,

Do you find a PCB like that in your fridge? Note: it has 3 relays, could one be for your lights? Ah, better prices on Ebay.

A few forums you could try posting on.

Ok, "The Five" was preempted so I wasted the time searching this. Mikek

Good, that's the same pcb I came up with. Ebay has it for $39.00

Mikek

Google for Kenmore refrigerator wiring diagram. You'll get thumbnails of a bunch of images for Kenmore circuits. You might include the model number of your refrigerator in the search. Simple (non-electronic) refrigerators have a simple switch-lamp series circuit across the mains. Electronic units can be quite complicated, as you can see in some of the schematics.

Getting inside the box where the circuit boards are located can be daunting unless you have a service manual. I've been inside a few refrigerators in my lifetime (so far), and I can say that is a very true statement.

If it were my refrigerator, I'd call a repairman, professional pride be damned.

Cheers, Dave M

W> The interior lights in my 8-year-old LG French Door refrigerator

That's a good part.

Those prices make me suspicious, you never know how those boards have been stored or handled, might be fire sale material.

You can still get electromechanically controlled stuff, but it means buying used and searching.

You can even get pre-electric appliances, but they're very hard to find now. Surprisingly, some even work passably. But some of the early pre-electric vacs were just bonkers.

NT

In numerous "no light" situations, the spring tab in the middle for the bulb's central contacting is not making contact. It needs to be pulled back out some (BEWARE OF BZZzzap! AND FINGER FRAP!).

On 16 Jul 2015 06:59:45 -0700, Winfield Hill Gave us:

Stick an LED light stick in there in a couple spots. Even if you leave it on or use a motion sensor switch, it will burn less than a filament bulb.

Did you meter the socket between changeout sessions?

Maybe that is a separate circuit and switch.

No s*it? Even the electro-mechanical era was actually "electronics" when one gets right down to it.

Well... you're an electronics bookworm. Perhaps the conceptual end eludes you.

Most of those *true idiots* want a couple hundred just to show up. Actual repair functions take that number higher.

Go with the LED strip replacements.. Worst case... fire them up with "a clapper". Hahahahaha!

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:02:31 -0400, Phil Hobbs Gave us:

You turkey. I base such decisions on the complexity of the repair (not the hardware chassis stuffing level).

I repaired a $3000 Siemens double oven last week. I had to buy two sawhorse kits and some 2x4 stock to make short little saw horses for it to sit on after we dragged it out of the cabinetwork it is installed into. That was more of a PITA than the actual repair, which turned out to be purely mechanical (door locking mechanism jammed).

The repair guy would have charged a minimum of $800, here in Great Falls, VA., and likely would have done a half assed job too.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 07:56:12 -0700, Jim Thompson Gave us:

Most are lame. The $3000 Siemens double oven here was made in Italy, and mostly with the same sheet metal screw throughout. A few of the elements have machine screws on them.

And there is nearly always a PDF mechanical explosion drawing available online for nearly all modern gear. Even the $250 Pella door latch, which needed repair.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:40:02 -0400, Phil Hobbs Gave us:

Not when it is done by the boys at Bosch. The entire thing is stainless inside too. They know what they are doing.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 10:40:02 -0400, Phil Hobbs Gave us:

We put the HW system on the backup gen panel. After all, why fire up a 16kW Generac generator if you are not even going to load it? Happy showers are here again. That's right.... they never left. :-)

The neighbors don't like it when we have 6 hour outages and yet we are all still lit up here with a nice quite rumble going out back.

Keeps the UPS batteries up too. All six units. They are only there for the transition time while the generator gets going. Works out great. They didn't like the waveform though, so the real PITA was the

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 08:36:06 -0700, John Larkin Gave us:

You should be more embarrassed because you bought a cheap brand.

The top names don't do that.

But our ES air cleaners do..... just like they should. Snap snap! Adjust your synapses!

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 17:47:45 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Gave us:

Older model stocks get sold cheap. Better than having it sit there and rot.

My Samsung S3 mini LCD and touch panel was only $30 for the pair. Could have bought the entire phone again for a little more than twice that.

I only had 400 parts left over after I got done fixing it. It is a damned heat gun required job too. What a PITA.

Pre-electric toasters are the pits. You *really* have to rub those sticks together hard.

Using an insulated tool or with the power cord unplugged.

At least the switch didn't fail closed like mine did. We had a rash of milk that went off from the heat of the globe - took us a while to work out what was going on.