Must have been a *long* time ago. I've used Robertson heads (a.k.a. Square-Head-Recessed) almost exclusively at home (I use some Torx, a.k.a. "star", as well) for about 30 years. The screws and drivers have been sold in every hardware store I've looked for them, for at least 20 years.
I've seen plenty of Robertson screws with stripped heads. I had to remove them with an angle grinder and five foot crow bar, followed by a set of vice grips.
Same here. A lot of Robertson screws don't seem to have the square inset deeply enough prevent easy stripping!
I don't think I've ever seen a stripped Torx or hex socket screw. (...although I have managed to round off smaller Allen wrenches trying to remove really tight hex socket screws...)
Some 'so' called Allen wrenches are not properly hardened. I've seen them twist off in the screw head. After digging out the crap, a real Allen wrench removed it with no problem.
One thing that helps is to stick a wrench into the head and hit it with a hammer before trying to remove it.
Excelite used to sell a nice set, with their 66 series handle. I've had my set for about 35 years.
Stainless steel is less stronger than normal steel.
--
Failure does not prove something is impossible, failure simply
indicates you are not using the right tools...
nico@nctdevpuntnl (punt=.)
--------------------------------------------------------------
That's very likely the case -- for small hand tools, I often haven't paid enough attention to the quality of the tool.
I do find it rather annoying that some crappy screwdriver manufacturers actually color the tip dark grey to make it *look* like the tip was hardened when in actuality it's 100% cosmetic!
No, but they look pretty bullet-proof from the drawings on Wikipedia!
it's tempting to use those 'free' wrenches that come with furniture, but they are usually so soft that won't even let you take abart what you assembled with it. I have a coffee can full of them, for when someone wants to 'Borrow a hex key'. When they come back and tell me it was no good, I tell them to hit one of the Fastenal or Grainger's stores and buy what they need. ;-)
Or they chrome plate crap metal to hide what they are selling.
They didn't slip in the screw head, but they would snap. A lot of W.W.II surplus electronics used them for setscrews and in knobs. When the equipment was new, each wrench needed for repair was in a fahnstock clip. By the time the equipment was sold as surplus, they were mostly missing.
Well, no. Or it's not supposed to be. Cold rolled 304 is many times stronger than mild steel will ever be. Even annealed, they're very close, certainly not weaker.
Tim
--
Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk.
Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms
SS and aluminum undergo some interfacial reaction that makes the screws seize up and gall when you try removing them. There's special anti-seize grease for that.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
Turns out it was first conceived in 1979 and appeared in a product in
1982. Great language--arbitrary precision arithmetic and associative arrays built in, really good string handling, and very very few nasty surprises. (Mike Cowlishaw articulated the 'principle of least astonishment' as one of the foundations of REXX's design, and he did a pretty good job of minimizing it.)
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
I built a deck out of SS square-head-recessed screws, where the head would cam out quite easily. Since I've been buying screws from McFeeleys, I haven't had that problem. I usually buy 316s, but they sell a variety (18-8 (304 AIUI),
Now you did it, you gat me to get ouit my ASM Metals Handbook, 8th edition, volume 1.
1035 steel hot rolled average tensile strength azbout 85,000 psi,
1016 cold drawn average tensile strength azbout 75,000 psi before work and up to 90,000 psi after,
1040 cold drawn 100,000 b4 and 120,000 respectively,
low carbon sheet steel 40,000 to 50,000 psi,
Structural steels 65,000 to 85,000 psi,
Hardenable carbon steels;
0.25 to 0.55% higher Brinell has proportioniatly higher strenth with
200 Brinell at about 100,000 psi and 400 Brinell at about 200,000 psi,
Hardenable alloy steeels;
Typical alloys are similar to hardenable carbon steels but have better forging performance,
Meduim carbon (0.20 to 0.50%) cast steel increases in tensile strength from about 68,000 at 0.20% C to about 95,000 at 0.50% C,
Stainless steels;
Type 201, cold rolled strip 180,000 to 200,000 psi, Type 301, annealed strip 100,000 to 110,000 psi, Type 316, annealed sheet 80,000 to 90,000 psi, Type 403, hot rolled bars, air cooled 100,000 to 115,000 psi.
You need to see this from the right angle: A class is a type. This allows you, the programmer, to cooperate with the compiler in very powerful ways.
You *might* want to expand the class ito a hierarchy, using all sorts of inheritance, virtual functions and all kinds of stuff that add a lot of overhead, but you don't need to.
Once you, the programmer, is free to declare your own types - classes - you all of a sudden get access to the most powerful featiures of C++ right now: Templates. This means that you can use the standard functionality of the STL merely by ensuring that your custom data type - the class - has some basic functionality.
As long as you make sure your class has a operator
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