IDE or SATA? I have a dozen new MadDog 2.5" IDE housings, cables & storage pouches I bought to recover data from old laptops. I lucked out on Ebay and got over a dozen for the price of what I paid retail for two, a year earlier.
You should already be getting one. A 2.0 back compatible USB 3.0 2.5" form factor drive enclosure.
T61s (and T60s, I believe) are all SATA. I don't need a dozen. ;-) I have an ultrabay adapter, somewhere, but I'm not sure if the base for the new laptop has an ultrabay (or if it's compatible). The new laptop (X230T) doesn't allow an optical drive so it obviously doesn't. Decoding the Lenovo site is way too complicated for such details.
Why should I be getting one? I didn't order it and I don't have one. Well, maybe I do but I'd have to disassemble my external drives and I think they're 3.5" anyway.
I was going to loan you one if you needed it.
It helps when migrating data from an old or dead laptop to a new one.
It was a common sense 'suggestion'.
Thanks. I'll keep you in mind if I can't figure out a better way to move my data (programs are the real PITA).
Ah, I *should* be buying one, but I'm not. Yet. Like I said, I have an Ultrabay adapter somewhere around here. The more important question is if it'll fit the new computer (base).
Once it's read in that light...
here.
We are hopefully getting some sample of these in shortly from Intel:
Pete, obviously you haven't been reading this group. Skyfart is a well known troll here. He has fried more computers than most people have ever owned.
I am amazed that you actually have a mobo that old that still runs. Must have been back before you started tossing machines (read "building")
How many PCs have you fried in the last 4 years? How many Mobos?
Exactly ZERO offerings with USB 3.0. IOW, it is an old design.
They need to follow that form factor, but get with the new busses from Detroit...
The DC3217BY is equipped with Thunderbolt, Intel's competitor for USB3. Thunderbolt is the reason Intel waited so long to offer native USB3 on a chipset. So if you want it, there is a model with a high speed I/O option.
Paul
Has to be said that the spec of it is extremely impressive for something that size that is actually affordable.
We all know they could make these things insanely small but they would be too expensive or impractical to manufacture...much like large screen OLE TV's
As to that port, it would require that both the consumer products industry and the consumers embrace yet another hardware level interface change. At least an old USB device will still plug into the new ports and work. I do not think that its performance numbers will necessarily yield a favorable acceptance by the world. HD DVD still looks awesome, but it got shit upon all over.
I think we should head toward fiber links. That would be too simple. Oh... you CAN do this, but the ports are $1000 each and the cables are hundreds each. Fiber connected hard drives are very expensive as well, let alone their controllers.
Fiber may still be a ways off for us at the household level. They are still stringing us along with wired and wireless 'solutions'. Mainly because there is a lot of money to be made from businesses from the higher end connectivity solutions.
But back to homebuilts and mini form factor PCs, etc.
My $300 (sans RAM U/G) Acer Aspire is only 8" square x 1.5' and has like 11 USB ports. The newer one have 3.0. They use intel's Atom series. One is an Nvidia, and the newer one is also an Atom but an Intel graphics chip. They both do home theater fine from a USB 2.0 connected BD disc too. My ITX homebuilt has a full length PCIe x16 slot, so I could presumably put a hotter vid card in it. Haven't looked in a while though.
Those are on the current forefront. The downside is that the color reproduction fades,so recalibrations are needed and 'full wear out' is an expected terminal certainty.
I like the way IBM did their original OLED years ago (it was for the PC) 11 million pixels at 4:3 so whatever array size that makes for.
But they fiber optically "hand wired" each pixel down to a pair of chips, IIRC.
If a "screen" was hand wired with fiber for each pixel, the driver chip could always get swapped out when failures happen. They would need an optical interface "clamp" similar to the hundreds of pin socket clamps for modern CPUs to mate the fiber bundle with the chip.
Seems this would be the right way to produce larger form factor screens.
At least until the next pixellation shift occurs. 1080 is gonna be around for a while. Gotta keep that black area between the pixels down
Maybe do the entire color mix down on the chip, and each "fiber pixel" would then be a true color transmission medium. No need to "mix" three actual pixels at the screen to make one "color point" (pixel).
Another way, instead of one chip feeding all the pixels, use an entire chip to feed all the light to ONE pixel, as in:
Take 2,073,600 LCD or DLP (or OLED) projector lamps and illuminate the entire lamp output with a single "pixel's" final color value for a given frame of a given video. Stack them all up on a rack, spaced apart from each other a bit to allow them to be properly cooled. Run fiber bundles up to the screen "pixels" from each projector lamp. That makes a
1920x1080 array. Lottsa of wiring though and they already have the computers, switches and software for this kind of stuff.Voila'! Daylight viewable big screen HDTV.
My Toshiba has a bad power connector. It broke away from the mounting tabs. There was still a little bit of tabs at the bottom so I laid a piece of leather over top so the case pushes really hard on it now and holds it in place... mostly. Otherwise it would have ended up with an external in-line connector that would have looked very suspicious to the TSA guys if I ever had to fly with it.
So far, so good. I just have to open up the case and reposition it when it slips on occasion.
I haven't figured out how to get the case completely open and then back together. There are a couple of flex cables that I don't think I can reach to reinsert if I take them out of the sockets. I have two bad USB connectors and a SD card socket I'd like to repair. But just can't get in the durn thing...
Rick
You might luck out by doing a search fro your model online. Some people are posting video of how to repair popular laptops on Ebay.
Thanks for not specifying the Toshiba model number. That saves me the trouble of finding the specific disassembly instructions, connectors, etc.
Various Toshiblah disassembly guides:
DC Jack Repair: There are replacement jacks all over eBay.
If you can't reach the USB solder connections with a soldering iron, which tend to be UNDER the connector, you can use a hot air SMT desoldering gun. The problem is that without protection, the plastic insulator will melt. Wrap the connector in aluminum foil to protect the plastic. Also take a sheet of aluminum foil, punch a hole in it for the connector, and use it to protect the adjacent components. Use low air flow to minimize the heat affected zone. You shouldn't need to do this for the power connector, but the USB jacks might require this method.
I suggest you take photos with a digital camera as you tear the laptop apart. This saves the inevitable problem of trying to find where the spare parts go after you've put Humpty Dumpty back together. If you're not sure about the screws, take a photo of the bottom and inside, print the photos, and attach the prints to sheet of styrofoam. As you remove the screws, push them through the print and into the styrofoam in their original location. If you're a bit more experienced, multiple cups and cans, one for each "layer" or "area" of the laptop also works.
Good luck...
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Heck I even have a 80486 motherboard/computer.
The real question is how many motherboards have these "designers" killed, with their shitty designs ?!
Bye, Skybuck.
Wrongamundo.
It happens as a side effect of the power-supply filtering which is intended to block out radio-frequency noise. Quite commonly, the "live" sides of the power mains wiring ("hot" and "neutral" here in the U.S., and the two "balanced power" sides in some other countries) are both "bypassed" to ground (the chassis) through small-value capacitors. These capacitors have a very low impedance at radio frequencies, and a much higher impedance at the 50 or 60 Hz (the power line frequency). They provide an "easy path" for radio-frequency noise from the computer power supply to flow to ground - in effect a "radio frequency short circuit" - while only leaking a very tiny trickle of powerline current.
This is *very* common practice. In most countries, there are legal limits on how much RF noise an appliance or computer is permitted to leak back into the power lines, and having a filter of this sort in the power-supply design is (in effect) required by law.
HOWEVER, if you don't properly ground the chassis, then the chassis can "float" to a voltage which is half-way between the two "live" powerline wires. In a U.S. system this will be around 60 volts, while in a 220/240 volt non-balanced system it'll be around 110 volts.
The amount of current which can result from this is very low (because of the high impedance of the filter capacitors at power-line frequencies). Nevertheless, it is measurable with a high-impedance digital voltmeter, and there's the possibility that some very-sensitive equipment might malfunction or be damaged under some circumstances (usually not, but it can happen).
If you *do* ground the chassis, so that the equipment is being used as it was designed to be used, then the voltage "disappears". The chassis is held at ground voltage.
The moral of the story is, that you should use sophisticated equipment as it was intended to be used. If you "ignore the instructions on the box", you're the one who needs to understand the implications of doing so, and accept responsibility for the consequences.
As one woodworking program I watch says, during every episode: "Be sure to read, understand, and follow all of the instructions and warnings which come with the equipment and products that you use."
--
Dave Platt AE6EO
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