Patriotic Poster

Not really worth posting.

--
Bill Sloman, Sydney

Yep. Bring back valves I say! Pins spaced too far apart for that to even be a problem.

I just got a good deal on a DSO6034A, and the seller sweetened the deal further by throwing in a pair of HP 1161As. I had never used those before, and now I will never use any other passive probes ever again. They seem to be an awfully well-kept secret.

-- john, KE5FX

Why is that one so good?

--

John Larkin         Highland Technology, Inc 

Science teaches us to doubt. 

  Claude Bernard

We've had some slips that wrecked some valuable first-article engineering-test products, and some occasional blow-ups in the test department, so I made that poster to hang a few places around here.

I use very sharp probes, and probe under my Mantis, and I've learned to be very careful. DVM probes start out pretty crude, and then wear out to get round on the tip.

These help:

It's almost impossible to probe the really small stuff, like a US8.

On Friday, September 4, 2020 at 7:52:59 AM UTC-7,

They are much smaller than most OEM probes, they feel very precise in use, and the cable is thinner and more flexible than any others I've seen. All of which makes slippage less likely. Their tips are also sharper, but that's only one consideration. I just bought a couple more on eBay to go with this pair.

The difference between the clunky 10073C/10073D probes that ship with the scope and the 1161A is the difference between a K-car and a Cayman.

-- john, KE5FX

I solder sewing needles to the probe tip. Use a pair of locking pliers as a heat sink to prevent melting the probe.

As well as piercing insulation, the needles allow probing very tiny objects such as ic pins.

Got to watch out for getting stuck on the sharp needle.

====================

** I had imagined sewing needles were stainless steel so impossible to solder. Big surprise, the are nickel plated steel so solder very easily.

I expect pins and paper clips are too.

Cool tip - pun fully intended.....

.... Phil

I use them too, but by gripping them with alligator clips. Good to know that they can be soldered. Thanks to you both.

It's easy to soft-solder stainless steel, but you must use the correct flux. Ordinary tinners flux (zinc dissolved in hydrochloric acid) from the hardware store will work. There are fluxes intended for stainless steel, generally based on phosphoric acid. Often available from industrial hardware and/or plumbing supply stores.

Mecanically clean the stainless steel surface first, before applying flux.

Joe Gwinn

Excellent! FWIW, "tinning flux" works better as a search phrase for me.

Danke,

--
Don Kuenz KB7RPU 
There was a young lady named Bright Whose speed was far faster than light; 
She set out one day In a relative way And returned on the previous night.