Yep. It varies by tree species. The redwoods have a very shallow root system. When they fall over, there's just the root ball and very few roots showing in the hole. Douglas Fir and Oak have a much more extensive root system, which will wreck a foundation. On the downhill side of the house, I have only redwoods, which I think are sufficiently removed from the foundation to not cause a problem. There are no larger firs or oaks within 15ft of the house, so I think I'm fairly safe.
Having a tree fall on the house is more of a problem. That happened to a neighbor in a wind storm a few months ago. A big fir tree cracked about 15ft up and scraped the front of the house off. The insurance company is paying the owner to rebuild. In 40 years and within a 1/4 mile radius, I recall only 7 trees falling or which 3 hit houses and 1 hit a car. In 2011, one oak landed on my roof: Those that fell were firs and oaks, no redwoods. I've done pre-emptive removals of about 5 trees over the years. I'm still worried about a few odd leaners, but they've been leaning that way for
40 years, so I'm not terribly worried.
More of a problem are falling large branches, also known as "widow makers". I've had holes punched in my roof by one of these. I have 5 skylights and have replaced 3 due to falling branches. Lots of "dings" in the roof, which introduce new leaks each year.
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Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Zinc doesn't work at all. Cooper only works for about 2-3 ft downhill. "Copper / Zinc Strips Failure - Roof Life of Oregon" One of my experiments was to rapidly electroplate some copper onto a cathode, producing copper dust. I sprinkled it onto the moss and added some mildly acidic water. The most was mostly gone by the next day. I hosed off the residue, and in about a month later, the moss was back. Grrr. Diluted sodium hypochlorite bleach (Clorox) and a little TSP replacement degreaser in a garden sprayer works well enough for me, or just use the overpriced commercial stuff: or make your own concoction:
Not really. Once a year at most for road closures. Maybe 4 times per year when my car won't run, or I'm stuck with doing the computer work after midnight. I don't use the cot much because there's no room in my cluttered office. I just roll an inflatable mattress into the isle and use a sleeping bag.
There's only one road in and out of the San Lorenzo Valley. Drop a tree across it and everything comes to a screeching halt. Actually, the tree isn't the problem, it's the safety regulations. It used to be that when a tree falls across the power lines, PG&E, Ma Bell, Comcast, Davey Tree, Public Works, and the local fire department all arrive at once and work together. Lots of congestion, but the tree was usually cleared in a very short time. The problem is that it's not really very safe to have everyone working at the same time. So, it was decreed that parallel processing was out, and serial processing was better. Everyone stands around directing traffic until PG&E declares the power to be turned off and safe. Then, the tree and debris are removed by Davey Tree. Then the various utilities replace the lines. Public works clears the road and declares the road passable. Finally, the fire department opens the road to traffic. Using parallel processing, a tree fall could be cleared in about an hour or two. With the new improved method, I've timed the process at between 6 to 8 hours.
I know little about heat pumps. "Seasonal variations drop off with depth and disappear below 7 metres (23 ft) to 12 metres (39 ft)" That's more than a "few feed down". How deep did you go?
Part of my foundation is concrete and rebar filled speedblock, which is certainly porous. I used: and some long forgotten brand of vapor barrier on the outside. Something similar should work for a slab:
Well, that's the standard practice. If your water table is too high, something else will need to be done. I have zero experience with such slabs and can't offer any suggestions.
Dunno. Maybe just an overlay to seal it better? Again, I have zero experience with slabs:
What type of dust? Carpet dust? Concrete dust? Rubber pad dust?
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Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
True, but it's not always that humid. What counts is the energy savings over the whole season. It would be very easy to use evap coolibng in front of the condenser or traditional A/C. But A/C technology is still largely in the stone age.
I really like evap cooling but have a major gripe with the poor quality of much of that stuff. The motor in our Champion/Essick cooler did a spectacular smoke-out into (!) the house last year. Bought a new motor and now that one is staring to show signs of failure. It hasn't even run
Up here, generally, if it is hot enough to need AC it is too humid for a "swamp cooler". Most of the time just reducing the humidity a bit makes it bearable - but when it's hot AND humid, we run the AC.
In some really important ways, you are missing big items. Most of the cold coils heat transport is from condensation energy, there is no equivalent heat of evaporation on the hot side so it all goes into temperature rise (sensible heat). Unless of course it is built very like conventional AC and the heat is exhausted outside.
It had its moments but mostly boring. They had silicon there but the big question of the day was "Huh?". That question was never answered. ...even decades later. Intel is a one-trick pony. Always has been.
Civilized? Is that why it's so dangerous?
You do know that there are a *lot* of single-family homes in NYC, too? Manhattan NYC.
The NYT reeks of partisanship and crude intellectual dishonesty. It has become a parody of its former respectable self. My wife likes it, so we get the Sunday edition delivered.
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John Larkin Highland Technology Inc
www.highlandtechnology.com jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com
Precision electronic instrumentation
Not sure what you mean by "you are missing big items". I think you just agreed with me 100%. The cold coil does not cool the air as much as the hot coil warms the air. All of the heat of condensation ends up warming the air in the room. I guess I didn't explain it clearly.
Try this: Dehumidifier contains an electric motor which gives off heat when it runs. The cooling and condensing are equal, so they can be ignored. Check the wattage used, and that's the added (electric) heat.
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Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
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That is incorrect. The hot and cold coils provide the same amount of cooling or heating other than the inefficiencies, but the cooling does not all go into making the air cool. The water condensing puts heat into the coil without changing temperature. This heat at the warm coil
*does* fully go to heating the air.
Look up heat of condensation or evaporation. Same with freezing/melting. Heat flows, but temperature does not change.
You can't get past the idea that a column has to be supporting something. The columns are attached to the roof, but not supporting it in any way. Like the balcony, the roof is cantilevered.
Just yesterday I stood on a very similar balcony and observed a cantilevered roof overhead with *no* supports at the end. I wonder how it all stays up???
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