OT Which direction is your ceiling fan SUPPOSED to run?

Take it up with Google, sh_t-for-brains, I'm sure they'll be real impressed with your critique.

Which is better, hot and humid or cold and clammy??? If those are your only options, you are never comfortable. You need to be able to dry the air at both ends of the scale.

On Thu, 10 Jul 2014 14:57:38 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Gave us:

That must be why I always call you 'dumbfuck'.

Oh wow, I get it now.

They don't make flies avoid the room, but they do stop flies.

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umop apisdn 


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Probably a bit late...

From the current issue of Home Power magazine: "Making the Most of Your Ceiling Fan" The temperature of the motor was far higher than anything else in the room, including windows exposed to direct sunlight.

the room, but it was also working as a little space heater.

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Is this a joke article? He lists some useful info and then draws faulty conclusions. I think the lead in line is a perfect example...

bulb in the same fixture is thousands of degrees and likely puts off more heat. I think the case for the fan heating the room is a bit overstated. More useful would have been a simple statement of the wattage of the fan. The comparison to the windows is totally absurd. They let in direct radiant heat from the outside. I can assure you than nearly any window in your house lets in more heat in the summer than the fan puts off. The temperature of the glass has no bearing on the heat coming in through the window.

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Rick

Right. Ceiling fans both turn and lean to the right. Cause they are made by hard working capitalists.

A ceiling fan that blows hard to the left costs far too much, doesn't work, and leaves you cold. And you keep paying more and more, over and over.

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Christopher A. Young 
Learn about Jesus 
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Well, better than answering those 2005 postings where the people are waiting for info where to buy a repair part, eh?

AHA! Thanks for finding that bit of info. THAT explains why the office fan runs for about 10-15 minutes before it seemed like the temp started to rise! In otherwords, fan at first good, over time bad. I haven't gotten up on ladder [10 ft ceilings] to check the motor housing to see just how hot it does get. But then heat means power, so why not just run Heat Pump for a bit? EVERYTHING eats power. These houses were built like energy is free. Simple example is the 7 ceiling spot lights in the kitchen at 60W each, that's a whopping 420W just to see! A microwave runs on that! well almost.

However, back to fan, with the UP direction not so noticeable. But that direction was contrary to intuition AND to that TV show. so had to check. Thanks for confirming there is little advantage to running fan without anyone in room, unless the Air Handler is anemic, but that's another topic.

It's quite real. It's one of those short info articles that magazines like to use for filler. I suspect that it might have been shortened through over editing.

I have to confess that I didn't read it thoroughly and criticially. You're right. The article has problems.

Nope, they're about the same. A running ceiling fan will burn about

75 watts going full blast. A light bulb might burn about 75 watts. Both convert most of the 75 watts into heat. It's the power consumption in watts that's important, not the surface temperature. If I place a sealing fan motor, and a light bulb, in two seperate marginally insulated cardboard boxes, and let them run for a while, the final temperature will be the same.

Yeah, probably true.

Yeah, also true. However, please remember the audience. It's mostly home owners that are interested in alternative energy for their homes, not engineers and energy professionals. For such an audience, generalizations are useful.

True, if you assume uncoated glass. With a Low-E coating, much of the IR is reflected. I can grind the numbers for how much later if you want.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

When it's warm in the summer, I keep all ceiling fans on, with doors open. They are very low wattage. Keeps air moving throughout the house and eliminates "hot spots." Without the fans, AC would have to be set 3-5 degrees lower. Always blowing down. You don't want a "boundary layer" on your skin. I never, ever run the fans in the winter. YMMV.

The 2 70 inch 5 blade fans I installed at the office are 35 watts wide open, and they are only running half speed. They are high efficiency DC motors - likely drawing about 20 watts each the way they are running right now.

That makes no sense. The window doesn't heat the room because the glass

Comparing the temperature is totally invalid and not useful in any way.

I would love to see some numbers.

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Rick

I don't have the numbers, but a10 sq ft Low E2 window in direct sun will sure add more than35 watts of heat to a room!!!

I just did some quick checking

With 900-1050 watts per square meter peak solar intensity and an SHGC ranging from 0.42 to 0.67, a aquare meter window in direct sun can provide 450 -703 watts of heat to a room. That's assuming Low E argon filled double glazed window

I've got a couple of southern facing skylights that I want to add some sort of protection to. I'm not sure what it will be or how I will do it, especially since they are 11 feet off the floor. I guess blinds would be the minimal effort approach, especially if I let someone else do it, lol. I'm thinking a piece of styrofoam covered with fabric to make it look nice and seal around the edges. Once side would have a reflective layer, possibly the reflective bubble wrap stuff. That would reflect the heat back out and likely work as well when it is cold out, not emitting as much heat.

With the reflective layer on one side it needs to fold away from you, into the window well which is not deep enough for it. Folding into the room means you see the reflector. Also, folding into the well means it won't seal snug around the edges. Not sure what to do about that.

Trying to make it slide away from the window sounds hard to do. I am thinking of a hinge with a draw cord. To slide sideways I could use arms at each corner and swing it away to another spot on the ceiling or even just let it hang to the side, it won't be in anyone's way up there, lol. .

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Rick

(...)

Agreed. I suspect you may have misread what I scribbled. See my quote above.

Sure, but give me a few daze. I'm giving a Linux on Chromebook talk tomorrow and am totally unprepared (as unusual). I'm also trying to take next week off so that I can claim that I've actually had a vacation this year.

I found this old meter in my mess: It has a solar cell on the back, with a 1/2" diameter aperture mask. It's a "Solar Heat" guess meter, measuring BTU/hr-sqft (F), which can be converted to something more sane like (5.68) watts/meter^2 (C). There's no far-IR bandpass filter, so I don't think this is going to be very useful. It's probably made for solar water heaters. Rather than play with the calcs, I'll take some measurements today. Bug me if I forget.

Also, this paper might be of some interest: "Study of titanium nitride for low-e coating application." I use it as a cheat sheet for how low-E glass works.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

It does both. Touch the glass: if it's hot, it's heating the air inside the room.

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John Larkin                  Highland Technology Inc 
www.highlandtechnology.com   jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com    

Precision electronic instrumentation

Blocking off the skylight could damage the skylight by overheating it. Just replace whatever you have with a velux and the insulation situation is solved. Put an external shutter on to control heat if you are getting too much heat gain. A shade that blocks direct sun in the heat of a summer day, but allows lowere evening or winter sun to provide heat (and light)

What is a velux?

An external shutter sounds like a bad idea, subject to all sorts of weather and debris. This is not a vertical surface, it is close to a

on the skylight.

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Rick