is with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot
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nsities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it a bout 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level h ole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, f lood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
he
15
total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it caus es problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
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installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.
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n the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed a long the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perfor ated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
le
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hing was not installed or both.
It's the 70-70-70 rule- lemme see, that means 70% RH, 70oF and 70% wood moi sture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enj oy, mold farmer.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
ensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot
formatting link
-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, the re is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist i t about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a leve l hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it , flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two ho ur job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
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for 15
he total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it c auses problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they 're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
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he problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing produ cts.
ly installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.
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w on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installe d along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of per forated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and th is gutter needs slope -duh)
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moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enjoy, mold farmer.
The problem is the enclosed (wet) spaces inside the structure easily meet t hese levels unless you have dry air circulating through it, Sherlock. Crawl spaces are another area that easily meets these requirements, usually from water vapor coming in from the ground (concrete is actually a sieve of mic rochannels).
Mold is not generally a problem in San Francisco, and certainly not a problem in Truckee, where the RH is generally below 30%. Wet towels dry impressively fast up there, and you get really cold when you step out of the shower.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
nadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated cla y. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot
formatting link
this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hois t it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a l evel hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
fix the
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d the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, i t causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, t hey're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
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low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter insta lled along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
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t these levels unless you have dry air circulating through it, Sherlock. Cr awl spaces are another area that easily meets these requirements, usually f rom water vapor coming in from the ground (concrete is actually a sieve of microchannels).
The only mold that I ever see is on the sidewalk in front of our house. That's the north side, mostly shade, and it gets a little greenish in the winter if we have a lot of rain. I'm only really concerned about it being slippery, so I power wash it, maybe once or twice a year.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot
formatting link
this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lb s, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to h oist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, le vel it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
to fix the
s one for 15
eard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once , it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run , they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
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too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter in stalled along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
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wood moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold gr owth. Enjoy, mold farmer.
meet these levels unless you have dry air circulating through it, Sherlock. Crawl spaces are another area that easily meets these requirements, usuall y from water vapor coming in from the ground (concrete is actually a sieve of microchannels).
There are space age wood products that kill mold, bacteria and even termite s and other pests, but I don't think they're in older homes. So either you' re exaggerating the leak or wood does not rot in SF.
The house was built in 1992. That was after the 1989 earthquake, when codes were upgraded, so the foundation is massive and there's a lot of steel beams and plywood shearwalls in the structure.
The leaks only happen in violent winter storms, a few times a year, which gives things time to dry out. If I do see some mold when I get my borescope, I probably won't bother to remove it. If I can stop the leak, it will die out.
Our previous house was built in 1892, and was in good shape... except for the scary brick foundations. It's hard to bolt things down to bricks.
Now I suspect that some venty-type things in the chimney outlet may let water in when it rains hard. I'm going to cover them with copperclad FR4, a great building material. You could do siding and a roof from FR4... it would probably last a lot longer than wood and shingles.
You could build almost anything from FR4.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
I suppose I could caulk under the flashing everywhere. I've tried most everything else.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
My solution was as simple as getting wider flashing and bending over the edge. ...Jim Thompson
--
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