Tolerable 1960's immitation.
This might help:
Into which English dialect would you like my rants translated? Cockney, Estuary English, Yorkshire, Northern Irish, Scottish, Brummie, Scouse, or Geordie?
Wow, 'ha"s pre"y far ou', c*ck. Ou'a sigh'! i've jus' abou' caugh' up wi'h 'he vernacular ov 'he day abou' 'alf a cen'ury ago. Like mos' conserva'ives, i don" like change. Dropping all the letter "t" seems to be mostly what's needed.
Once in power, ALL parties don't like change.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Don't forget Brizzle! Words ending in vowels can have an added "l".
Long ago my father moved to "Brigstowe" (old name, add an "l" to get the /pronunciation/ of the modern name). He was confused by a technician who repeatedly and insistently stated "I have an ideal". Eventually my father twigged he wanted to express his idea. Whether or not it was a good idea is lost to history.
COOL!
Tom Gardner wrote in news:oU_rD.682306 $ snipped-for-privacy@fx21.am:
And do not forget the added R at the end of some words, like "idea" becomes "idear". The behavior is still evident in New York City with some folks.
What the hell is up with adding an additional letter sound at the end of certain words?
Which methods have you considered?
-- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
If it's a large operations you are right, then you are captive if all manufacturers play these games. Anything smaller and you can also look at foreign sources such as Mahindra.
-- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Those I think have a chance of working: paper cone filters, centrifuge, screen adhesion, and flocculation.
Those that might work, but were either too messy, complex, dangerous, or expensive: freezing, and evaporative distillation.
Using a porous paper cone has so far been the most effective. Tobacco tar seems to be a rather large molecule compared to IPA (16.3 angstroms molecular diameter). I tried a molecular sieve (Size 5A recycled from a medical oxygen generator) and was able to separate IPA and water (2.63 angstroms), which just increased the tar concentration in the remaining IPA. I don't have a good supply of filter paper, so I used coffee filters (20 microns pore size), which is 10,000 times too big, but amazingly worked fairly well. However, the filters clogged with tar rather easily. I ended up with a slightly yellow-brown IPA that still reeked of tobacco as the IPA evaporated. I should probably buy some smaller pore size (1 micron glass fiber?) filters.
Screen adhesion looked interesting and sorta worked. Essentially, I just rolled up a wire screen and stirred the IPA with it. The sticky tar tended to stick to the screen. I haven't done much with this because of the mess involved in cleaning the wire screens.
A similar system can be made using a sponge. Dip and wring out. The tar will tend to stick to the sponge. On a small scale test, a cellulose sponge worked the best. However, I would need to buy a large quantity of sponges for this to work, which might cost more than the IPA I'm trying to clean.
Flocculation requires a clarifying chemical that causes the tiny particles of ash to clump together, come out of colloidal suspension, and then sink to the bottom of the bottle. My guess(tm) is the ash will drag the tar with it. I haven't found the proper clarifying agent yet, mostly because I haven't looked or asked.
Obviously, this is not a high priority project for me and further experimental progress is unlikely.
Drivel: I'm still working on "curing" the sticky fake rubber paint used by Logitech to insure that their mouse and keyboard products are prematurely recycled. So far, the best I can do is remove the rubber paint with 91% IPA and lots of rubbing with a paper towel. I haven't tried ethyl or methyl alcohol yet. Stay tuned.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
I'd be tempted to cold distill it. Put the container in a clear bag for insulation. Add something black to the IPA. Put it in a sunn window. A tube runs from IPA lid to another container in the shade. Come back a month later it should be done.
NT
Then you're obviously clued-up sufficiently well already for me to add anything to the above. The only other thing I can think of would be an adsorbtion wand, but that's a bit abstruse. How about activated charcoal?
-- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
The adsorption wand is similar to my screen adhesion scheme. Stir the solution and the goo sticks to the surface of the stirring rod.
I forgot about activated charcoal. Yes, I could make a moonshine filter that would probably clean up the alcohol. Something like this:
"Alcohol Filter - a Giant Brita for Whiskey, Vodka, Gin, Rum, or Other Cheap Liquors!" Looks easy enough to try on a small scale to see if it has a chance.
Thanks much.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Well, that reminds me of the transparent-plastic cases of some early generations of iMac; a bit of smoke residue REALLY shows up on a graphite/lime/ruby'case.
Dishwasher detergent and a smidge of lye in a sink of warm water makes it all come off, though.
Do please let us know how it works out for you. I have a massive problem with minute trace impurities in spirits (not the cheap ones, either) so it could be a real boon for me too. Might even improve my rotten soldering! :-D
-- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
But why use it? You must have the opportunity to adopt lots of clean monitors used in offices.
On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 18:58:53 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso" wrote:
Incidentally, I have two other 24" monitors at home that I saved from a premature demise at the recycler. LG Flatron L246WP. Same vintage and specs as the Samsung. However, this LG was designed to blow up early. Notice the two bulging electrolytics in the foreground, and that there was originally room for three capacitors. All three caps are wired in parallel. In my conspiratorial mind, the monitor was lasting too long, which is bad for business. So, to shorten the lifetime of the monitor, LG simply removed one of the three filter caps, which increased the ripple current through the remaining two caps by 50% in each of the remaining two caps. However, that wasn't sufficient to get them toasty hot and start outgassing after the warranty expired. If you look at the silk screen on the PCB, you'll notice that the original diameter for the three electrolytics was a larger diameter than the caps that were actually supplied. Also notice that this was not the case for all the other electrolytics on the PCB. So, LG also reduced either the value (uF) or the voltage rating of the electrolytics to further increase the ripple current, produce more heating, and further shorten the life of these caps. I replaced the three electrolytics with much larger (and better) electrolytics. One of the monitors lives on my desk, while the other is waiting for me to get inspired to fix an intermittent CCFL backlighting problem.
Everything is a conspiracy.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Minimum hand tremor for many folks occurs at about 0.5 beers.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
-- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net https://hobbs-eo.com
1/2 a Guinness according to my irish/ american colleague who would attach ridiculously small wires to ridiculously small samples.
George H.
Jeff Liebermann wrote
I avoid all that stuff and use this:
Works just like pure alcohol, has a slight bluish residue perhaps, if that bothers you use water to remove that.
Just do not drink it.
Phil Hobbs wrote in news:1- adnQzx1f-DrS snipped-for-privacy@supernews.com:
When I shoot pool, I am too sharp and miss shots. If I have two beers, I get fuzzier, and my pool is actually better focused. As I move into three and up, my shot go south again in the other direction.
Could be a memory trigger as we had a bar in the house with our pool table and I witnessed a couple deades of Dad and his drinking friends.
The EU standardized its denatured alcohol in 2013: "...3 litres of isopropyl alcohol (IPA), 3 litres of methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) and of 1 gram of denatonium benzoate per hectolitre of absolute alcohol..." A small amount of methylene blue or thymol blue dye is added to provide the blue color although the document indicates that UK uses methyl violet dye and adds some other denaturants. See bottom of PDF.
I think you may have missed the point of this exercise. I don't have any problems with obtaining or using any alcohol based cleaning solution for removing condensed tobacco tar from computers, monitors, and PCB's. The problem is that I have in storage about 3.5 gallons (13.2 liters) of brown colored, dirty, contaminated, filthy, disgusting, etc used alcohol from a previous LCD monitor cleaning. I'm looking for a cheap, efficient, reliable, non-messy, and easy method of removing enough of the dissolved tar and suspended ash particles from this saved alcohol to be able to reuse it for additional decontamination exercises.
I think the blue dye color is suppose to warn me not to drink it:
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann wrote
The math the math, 15 * 1.5 $(bottle) = 19$80
Your 'cleaning method' should cost less than that.
The time spend, the hours of philosophy, the energy spend keeping the commie-nukations running the brain cycles used, the storage time / space / cost of 3.5 gallons crud...
4 me its clear. ;-)ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.