Some sort of clear Alodine?
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
-- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com
Phil Hobbs wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@electrooptical.net:
It would seem vulnerable if it were bare Aluminum, so it must have some surface prep on it after abrasive polish. It actually does look like stainless, like John said.
Pan head screws are also a no-no on rack chassis exterior. We had one that had thin metal on it so countersunk holes were a no go.
I fixed their mistake by placing countersunk screws into a flat washer to bear the pressure and they had a lower profile than the pan heads. Man, those chassis were a PITA to install into an already populated rack.
Protrusion (like pan head screws) are usually a bad design choice on rack chassis enclosure exteriors.
Should have a pair of hard anodized handles on it too to make it easier to fit.
Do you get light pipes custom molded or is there some kind of cut-to-fit material?
"Tom Del Rosso" wrote in news:r423ev$de7$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Make a metal template with the exact hole layout of the panel. Use that as a fixture for the BNCs BEFORE you solder them. Then Solder, and detach. Now when you install in the enclosure, they will all line up perfectly.
snipped-for-privacy@decadence.org wrote in news:r42m6o$14ku$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org:
AND none of the solder joints will be under any mechanical stress.
It requires that the BNC connector be hand installed. If you use a wave solder process, you will have to make a fixture that stays with the assembly as it hits the solder wave.
I would hand solder. You likely do not have that many thru hole parts, and hand soldering is less thermally stressful to the SMD component set already on the board.
Neither. We buy some little mushroom-looking thing that has a diffusive half-dome end and a cylindrical shaft that pushes into the hole on the front panel. It stops just short of the right-angle LED on the pc board, where the light enters. It scatters light nicely on the outside, so the LEDs are visible at high viewing angles, no matter where the box is mounted in the rack. As usual, the light pipes cost a lot more than the LEDs.
-- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc The cork popped merrily, and Lord Peter rose to his feet. "Bunter", he said, "I give you a toast. The triumph of Instinct over Reason"
snipped-for-privacy@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Buy square or round acrylic sticks or rods, and make your own. Or maybe you can 3D print them too! :-) Heat them up to shape them. Use jigs to make a repeatable identical sets.
Could use a COTS pipe and 3D print around it to encapsulate it and shape the path.
Hey I know... 3D print a hollow pathway device, then have it chromed inside like the model car guys do. Feed the light up through that.
Or use fiber optic "ropes" to get it there, then laquer them in place on a 3D molded pathway.
There has to be something out there cheaper than the greedy overpriced light pipe turkeys out there.
adence.org:
how much time are you going to waste on that when you can get a 100 for $13 on aliexpress?
Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Whatever.
He said his cost more than the LEDs did.
How many times are dopes like you going to declare to works of others to be a waste of time? Yeah... buy more shit from China, ya economy tanking twerp.
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