Metal locking tie, doe they hold up?

Folks,

Had a nice clamp for mounting some square ferrites but it's too big, ran out of space. Lasse had suggested metal type straps a while ago. Found this:

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Is anyone familiar with these? Do they really hold forever? Is the tongue just pulled through and then left alone like with cable ties, or does it have to be bent over?

Not sure how one you exert so much force on the tongue but I guess that needs a serious pair of pliers. Which kind of ruins the rounded edges that I could really use for St.Elmo's fire avoidance :-)

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg
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If it's a metal strap, are you sure it won't make an electrical connection someday? Have you ruled out duck tape or (to REALLY save space) Kapton? Or heat-shrink tubing?

Reply to
whit3rd

That's the main reason I am asking here. If it goes thwainggg and the broken up loop touches chassis then ... bzzzt ... *POP*

All that isn't too reliable in the long term. Lacing cord would be, but it's a lost art in the industry this is for.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

What about transformer banding? Those crimps never fail.

Cheers

Reply to
Martin Riddle

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I don't think you should bend them

would something like this make you sleep better?

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using copperwire and soldering an option?

-Lasse

Reply to
langwadt

True. However, I have to find something that can be bought at places like Digikey or Grainger, and can be affixed without specialty tools.

Guess I'll make the slots for these steel ties then and if they don't work I'll have to nudge the client's production folks to learn lacing cord techniques.

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Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

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That might be better but they don't have datasheets, and the 6" is out of stock :-(

If it was for prototyping, sure. I'd use the aluminum fence ties I have left over from building our fence :-)

I'll just try the Panduit ties and if they don't work it just has to be good old lacing cord.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

I think banding would work, Crimp, fold, bend, solder. See

Cheers

Reply to
Martin Riddle

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If you intend to use more than, say, a dozen of these, you should get a ty-wrap gun:

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Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

Thanks, Martin, I have bookmarked that. If the Panduit ties doesn't work we'll check into the banding method. The 3/16" wide stuff would fit the slits I now have in there.

One issue might be that they say it's RoHS compliant, meaning the tin coating on the clips is unleaded and my client wants leaded solder processes. They are exempt.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

Not sure if it will really work for what you are trying but look at the security ties used for truck cargo. Here is one type Uline carries:

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Also check out the 3M VHB tapes. They might do what you need.

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Joe Chisolm
Reply to
Joe Chisolm

The seem to operate on a similar principle as the Panduit ties. The Panduit ties have the advantage of rounded corners which is nice.

Anything with glue would not pass muster with agencies, and with me :-)

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Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

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Oh, they'd do that one of these days. But this is a start-up so we want to try to live with the least amount of capex Dollars possible.

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Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

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For whatever it's worth, I've done them with a flush-cut dikes and my fingers - I hold the flat side of the dikes against the shoulders of that little block, and pull the loose end until I cinch it up. So far, I haven't needed more than finger-tight to cinch up the bundle, then, of course, just clip off the end with the dikes.

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

Regular solder sticks to unleaded tin plating just fine. :-)

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

Yeah, it does, but this application is in a highly regulated field and veering off the trodden paths can quickly turn into an act of congress.

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Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

Yeah, I think so as well. In this case they'll have to use gloves, no skin oils allowed. Can't clip off though because that leaves sharp edges .. corona ... bzzzt .. hissssss ...

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

I was thinking something like 2mm wire (isolated if you like) pre-bent into a U, across the core through holes on each side of side of it, bent on the back and soldered

if four pads can can hold a pcb mount transformer, why not a core ?

-Lasse

Reply to
langwadt

It's tough to hold tension that way. For a small component you don't have to hold tension because it's inherently and rigidly connected to the pins with which it hangs on to the board. The ferrite doesn't have that. Unfortunately ferrite manufacturers remain blissfully disinterested in how their cores are supposed to be fastened. They could even make an extra buck here, but they don't seem to care.

They can't. I have seen designs like that and had to tell the clients the sad news that a re-layout was required because we couldn't safely drill holes for a couple of screws. The heavy forces from the transformer core turned the solder into mush if a unit was transported a lot (depending on the area, road conditions, and so on).

Sometimes one can use pot cores for which there are holders. But you can't get large ones easily in 43-material and also I've seen pot cores fall apart upon shock and vibration.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

No heat-shrink sleeve that might fit the bill?

--
Failure does not prove something is impossible, failure simply
indicates you are not using the right tools...
nico@nctdevpuntnl (punt=.)
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Reply to
Nico Coesel

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