Hi, i'm making the board for an inverter, the specifications are voltage rail 300V and maximum current of 40A (the current in fact will be lower maybe 20A), here you can see the first rough copy of the layout
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in the left you can see the tracks and in the right the components, there is a hcpl2530 and an ir2113, the rest of components are capacitors, resistors and diodes, the layout is not finished so don't care about the thin tracks that you can see in the lm7815. So my question is what do you think about the layout? is gonna work?, what can i improve.?....
I have read in some places that i need a really big copper plane for my gnd, but i'm not sure what really big means, i have readen the an 978 and in the figure 7, connects the rectifier board via twisted wire to the power circuit board which has a power line plane and a gnd plane, so this mean that have i to put a board with a gnd plane and with a power line plane and then connect this board to the board with the igbt's?, i hope that everybody undestand what i say.
There will be a board only with the igbt's and i will connect this board to the board with the ir2113 with a wire, any special cares should i have to connect the gate of the igbt's with the ir2113?. Thanks so much in advance.
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Your design makes little sense, and it appears you misunderstand the issues surrounding driving the high gate capacitances of large IGBTs and MOSFETs, dealing with 2A gate-drive currents, and the little matter of wiring inductance around the gate-current path.
Specifically, you generate and route to a 2-pin connector one each high-side and low-side gate-drive signals, but with no return paths for each one. Consider, for example, driving a large IGBT module. Each IGBT, both high-side and low-side, needs its own twisted-pair wire carrying a gate drive and a return-current emitter connection. That means pins 5-7 for the high side IGBT gate and emitter, and pins 1-2 for the low side IGBT gate and emitter need to be brought to the connector, which then has to have four pins rather than two as you are using. Do you see the huge error you have made there?
In the world of high voltages and high currents, you must become aware of every current path and every nanosecond, and live with the formula V = L dI/dt, which for example, tells you that switching 40A in 0.4us means you'll develop a disastrous voltage spike of 100 volts! in a small 1uH of inductive wiring. It tells you that even if you get your inductance down to a minuscule 50nH, you'll still have a mean 5-volt spike to deal with. That's why, e.g., the ir2113's COM pin (the return for the low-side IGBT, carefully connected to the IGBT's emitter with twisted-wiring to reduce the inductance), is generally not connected straight to ground, as you have done. In fact, the ir2113 was painfully designed to allow up to +/-5V offset between the Vss and COM pins for this purpose. A direct connection means some of the high 200A/us dI/dt gate-drive currents will flow through the ground wiring. That's bad.
I could go on with other very important issues, but my wife tells me I have to stop now, get out the Saws-All, and rip open the wall behind our guest-room shower to see why it's leaking down into the gaping hole left in the kitchen ceiling by the plumber who charged us $250 to rip open said hole, and who couldn't find anything wrong after a few minutes cursory looking, and who left, taking his $250 and leaving us with an ugly hole. They don't do ceilings, he said.
In message , dated Sat, 26 Aug 2006, Winfield Hill writes
He's missed a trick. They usually have 'relatives' who will put right the chaos they cause. For enough $$$.
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OOO - Own Opinions Only. Try www.jmwa.demon.co.uk and www.isce.org.uk
2006 is YMMVI- Your mileage may vary immensely.
John Woodgate, J M Woodgate and Associates, Rayleigh, Essex UK
My homeowners insurance won't pay for plumbing repairs, but does pay for damage caused by leaks... including the hole left by the plumber.
But they did pay for a plumbing re-route when a pipe broke under a concrete floor, since the re-route cost was far less than replacing the ceramic tile throughout the whole house... style no longer available.
Leaking showers are almost always due to a leaking "pan". In old homes in Massachusetts this is likely lead... Will RoHS get you ?:-)
In Arizona they typically use a thick plastic membrane shoved into the mortar, then mortared over when setting the tiles.
Molded plastic showers don't have "pans"... the bottom IS the "pan".
...Jim Thompson
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| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC\'s and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
In message , dated Sat, 26 Aug 2006, Jim Thompson writes
That's normal in England, too. I was a bit surprised; my friends were able to claim for eaves repairs due to a leak.
The original gas pipe is embedded in the concrete raft on which my house is built. It leaked very slightly in frosty weather and the gas collected in the bathroom. I now have a pipe safely outside the house!
Yes; lead pipe has been out of the UK plumbing world for several years, and lead-free solder has been in use for about 4 years, I think.
We have that under whole buildings - DPM - damp-proof membrane.
Indeed, until you drop something heavy on it. Like the wrench you need to fix the shower-head!
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OOO - Own Opinions Only. Try www.jmwa.demon.co.uk and www.isce.org.uk
2006 is YMMVI- Your mileage may vary immensely.
John Woodgate, J M Woodgate and Associates, Rayleigh, Essex UK
Actually, he did make such a suggestion, which I ignored.
Interesting, but doesn't hitting up your insurance for these little things put you in jeopardy of a bit higher rate that can overwhelm your savings over a period of years? I've never been one to make insurance claims.
I should have mentioned this is a shower head on a full-size tub. The tube is porcelain, not plastic, and can't leak, although the caulking could if defective. Fortunately a new series of tests found the long-standing problem before I cut open the wall: water dribbling around the tile and shower curtain, down the side of the tub onto the floor, along under the tub/washer-closet wall, to the hole in the floor for the washing-machine 120V conduit. Problem properly identified, solution at hand.
Well... This one totaled around $4K... as opposed to $15K-20K to replace all the floor tile.
...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC\'s and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
Sure, if the leak was due to a storm. I had 20+ year old shingles torn up, some metal ripped off, and a large tree taken down in a storm. My insurance paid without a flinch (made money on the deal too).
"raft" = "slab"? We were looking at homes on slabs. No way, I want a basement, even though they want $35K more.
Lead pipe? Four years? I don't think it's been allowed in the US for fifty. Your RoHS police have some cleanup to do! ;-)
Bisqueen is the brand name here. It's a .006" layer of plastic put under concrete floors for a vapor barrier. It also add significant strength to the concrete.
Well, don't do that. BTW, why do you need a heavy wrench to fix a shower head. They pretty much hand-tighten (with Teflon tape in the threads).
Small things, yes. Enough small things and you can be canceled; not good. Homeowner's (like life ;) insurance is certainly not something you want to collect on, but it's there for disasters.
I have a similar problem and noticed it by the sheetrock in the bedroom underneath looking funky (wet). I ripped open the sheetrock expecting to find a disaster like the I found in the 1/2 bath upstairs[*]. No rot, nothing. The only thing I can figure is the grout and/or caulking around the tub have failed (the only water seen was off the rim of the tub when my wife was showering). I'm in process of cutting out the grout from around the tub (what a PITA) and tiling the rest of the bathroom.
[*] The upstairs 1/2 bath looked fine until I took up the vinyl floor. There was no sub-floor under the vanity. There was a leak that the previous owners had tried to hide with another layer of plywood and a dam of aluminum flashing and calk under the baseboards. Evidently they thought the leak was from the sink. Nope, there was a pin-hole in a pipe in the wall (a nail had been dropped inside and rotted through). THere wasn't enough water to show in the sheetrock in the kitchen below, but enough to rot out the sub-floor.
Find out. BTW, alt.home.repair is a good group to ask such questions.
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