Yes, precisely why triac based converter kludges on unearthed metal cased appliances are a recipe for disaster, possibly even a case for compensation claims should a third party be injured/killed. These converters worry me- they imply to the lay purchaser that as long as the wattage and voltage requirements are met, then it's safe to use. This is not necessarily the case.
There is the matter of spacing between live PCB traces/wiring and chassis to consider- 240V is far more likely than 120V to create a potentially fatal situation if steam/moisture settles on live components and creates a path to chassis.
Therefore, without examining the OP's equipment, and indeed the converter, there's no way in hell I would advocate connecting either to a UK supply.
Hi James, The ferromagnetic core has developed a lot it seems. Just try using a simple load like heater. See if the cb breaker goes on or what. Good Luck Nitin
Yes, heard of Ni-Chrome, and a _lot_ of modern equipment, does not use it (cost).... Many of the devices like the one being shown, use ceramic printed elements, which have over 2:1 resistance change from cold to hot. Not as large as things like Tungsten filament lamps, which typically have over
That's only because there's still no one to pick up the challenge of designing a heater-based appliance to withstand a 4.24kV(p) (@ both prongs) insulation test (which is required for non grounded appliances sold in the EU). ;-)
I can't believe that there are still end-users AND designers out there, who are willing to find that out, the hard way :-P
Actually, he should buy a heater for that locale, and take the correct heater for the locale he is to be in, depending on where he decides to go. Problem solved.
--- Not only do you not know what you're talking about, you ought to learn to post properly.
Since you're posting from Google groups, maybe you ought to read what they have to say about it. From:
formatting link
"Summarize what you're following up.
When you click "Reply" under "show options" to follow up an existing article, Google Groups includes the full article in quotes, with the cursor at the top of the article. Tempting though it is to just start typing your message, please STOP and do two things first. Look at the quoted text and remove parts that are irrelevant. Then, go to the BOTTOM of the article and start typing there. Doing this makes it much easier for your readers to get through your post. They'll have a reminder of the relevant text before your comment, but won't have to re-read the entire article. And if your reply appears on a site before the original article does, they'll get the gist of what you're talking about."
I suggest you take your medicine, and stop being rude. I said 'Tungsten filament lamps', as are used in devices like this for heating, _not_ for light bulbs. Given that this was a discussion about heating units, I would hope that anybody using even a few of their brain cells would understand this. In these applications, the filaments are typically run under 1000C, and have hot/cold resistances in the order of
4/5:1. 10:1, is the figure for a light heating to around 2200C. My figures are not 'plucked', but are based upon over 100 different kitchen applicances, that were tested by a company who I sometimes work for, as part of designing the electronics to feed a mains socket, from a DC inverter, in a caravan. They took peak current readings (this working off normal rated mains, so the inverter was not causing the difference), with a recording meter, for just about every kitchen appliance (waffle irons, kettles etc.), that they could borrow. We were suprised to find that most modern units of this sort (grilling units etc.), had higher inrush currents than we expected. Over 30%, drew nearly twice the current on 'switch on', that they drew when running. Most drew between this, and
4* the current expected. Just two, drew slightly more than this (peaking at 6.2*). The commonest heating elements, on dismantling a few units, were effectively PCB's printed on a ceramic substrate, while the units exhibiting the highest surge, had glass lamps running between dull red, through to a bright red heat. Countries of origin, ranged from the UK, Italy, and Japan, yet none (except one old kettle), behaved as a normal ni-chrome heating element would behave.
Neither making a mistake (if that was the case) nor top posting in usenet makes anyone a "retarded" person, a "pretentious little twat," a "myopic ass," a "f****ng stupid" or a "f****ng twit". "Roy L. Fuchs" and "John Fields," you guys make me feel I'm going to vomit.
I had nichrome have cold resistance half its hot resistance. Less of a change than most other metals - most metals have resistance about proportional to absolute temperature. Tungsten has resistance varying even more drastically with temperature than proportional to absolute temperature.
** Also, a 'cooker', that is rated at 1235W when running, will typically draw many times this rating for a few seconds whenever the element switches on. **
** You need to take a dose of rat bait and stop posting utter bullshit on a public forum.
** Shame you did not **post** any such damn thing.
My comment was totally correct and stands.
BTW:
I tested a modern (Chinese made) 2400 watt electric kettle.
Current draw started at 9.4 amps slowly falling to 9.2 amps.
Similarly for an modern, 800 watt toaster, 3.3amps falling to 3.2 amps.
--------------------------------------------
What you claimed above about a 1250 watt heating element is just pain WRONG.
The initial current draw is not "many times" that indicated by the the name plate wattage rating.
Domestic circuit breakers will not allow such extended period overloads.
--
Get over yourself.
If that\'s what his cooker needs and the mains can supply it, it\'s
perfectly reasonable and whether you\'d call it that or not is
totally immaterial.
Stop being rude, and learn how to write "anyway" in your first and only language, which turns out to be my third one. Learn also to put the commas inside the quotation marks, and to leave a space between the numerical value and unit symbol
formatting link
#15). If you can't use your own language, don't be so pretentious. Of course I can multiply, and what I do is none of your business. This is my last reply to you, John Fields.
ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.