Jeweller's saw? Sort of like a hacksaw with a thin narrow blade (shorter than a hacksaw but with similar throat). As with files, skilled folks can do wonderful things with them.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
Jeweller's saw? Sort of like a hacksaw with a thin narrow blade (shorter than a hacksaw but with similar throat). As with files, skilled folks can do wonderful things with them.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
-- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
"Henry Kolesnik" schreef in bericht news:8ovje.1965$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com...
Hank,
Adding a resistor will not be that difficult. A thin piece of two sided PCB and some handiwork with a fret-saw and a fraise will do the trick. As AA is pretty small you may need to use two or more SMD resistors in parallel. The round piece of PCB should be place between a battery and its press spring.
petrus bitbyter
He clearly means a strawberry.
dPearce Consulting
And your proof is...? ;-)
ROFLOL, that's a good one!
-- Thanks, - Win
On Fri, 20 May 2005 22:57:44 -0400, Spehro Pefhany wroth:
If you think about it, the batteries do have an equivalent series resistance and the LEDs are not perfect voltage clamps either. There IS a series resistance even though there is no discrete resistor in the circuit.
Jim
:Jeweller's saw? Sort of like a hacksaw with a thin narrow blade :(shorter than a hacksaw but with similar throat). : Spehro Pefhany
Wow. Just look at the throats on some of these dudes:
When I heard it, I thought of something like this (photographed with an actual fretboard, no less):
"mc" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mustang.speedfactory.net:
Actually,the Nichia white LEDs have a drop of about 3.5 volts at their rated current;25ma. The spec sheet,IIRC,said 3.2v-3.9v. the 10 I checked were mostly 3.4V.
-- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net
The reciever Im using is IR38D. I found it in an electronics kit from Maplin. Cant even find a datasheet for it on the internet.
The thing to remember is that the amp recognises the signal always and the sattelite reciever and dvd recognise it intermittently. This suggests to me that all the components are in place but something is not working quite as well as it should.
I dismantled one of the remotes, linked my led into it and placed it in the same spot and everything works well, so theres nothing wrong with the IR LED or its placement.
whats an AGC?
I couldnt really find anything on remotecentral, or its forums. Ill carry on looking maybe something will urn up.
Maybe just make a preamp. How much plate voltage to get the thing to work? 100V?
of
sufficient.
White LEDs that have that much voltage across them have too much current going thru them. I suggest you read the specs for a common white LED here.
There IS a
circuit.
than
the
You forgot to add: "that when the user notices less than satisfactory light output he/she still has ample use remaining to change out the LEDs"!!!
Running the LEDs at excessive current not only makes them a lot brighter, it makes them last much shorter, and guarantees the flashlight maker another sale in a few years, if that long!!! :-P
beleive
all 4 are
LEDs are
I'm
substantially,
can see
zero on
Man, for those prices, you can throw them away every time you change the AA cells! But what I find problematic is that the length of that three cell monster is over 7".
looks
would
install
Many of the commercial flashlights run the LEDs at much higher currents, some as high as, or even higher than 50mA when the cells are fresh.
Sure. The original Luxeon Star runs at 1W and 350mA, and the newer 3W and 5W LSes run at even higher currents. But you can get spider LEDs and 8mm or 10mm LEDs that run at higher currents, maybe a few to several tens of mA. Check out these lead frame LEDs.
Confusingly, at least on European website called something that looked like that (presumably with finer teeth for metalcutting) a jeweler's saw. Nothing to fret about, I guess.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
-- "it\'s the network..." "The Journey is the reward" speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
Yes, and multicolor LEDs are available these days that do patterns and such like. But nothing at the component level with white LEDs that I've seen. There are high power white LED modules available that run off of (say) 12V but they are not from LED manufacturers that I've seen, and they are probably too expensive for use in a >Also, if pulsing were going on, you'd see stroboscopic effects when you
Zero, more than likely.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
-- "it\'s the network..." "The Journey is the reward" speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
The competition is a Maglite with 10-hour bulb life (assuming you don't subject it to shock or vibration) or some even worse no-name incandescent, so I doubt that they can make it that bad and have it work at all.
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
-- "it\'s the network..." "The Journey is the reward" speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
Radio shack use to sell a self flashing LED.
I've seen the strobing on rapidly opdating LED displays when either they moved rapidly. I would think the flash rate would be at a level that it wouldn't be noticed under most normal conditions. I'm sure there must be an optimum flash rate for this type of use.
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