Do/Don't? Soldering Wire Tips Before Sticking into Terminal Block

My GPS says 'Keep right' or 'Keep left'. Maybe that can apply here.

Yes, I know CW from CCW. :>

What I was getting at is how do you concisely (ha! me and concise, what an idea! :> ) refer to the situation I was describing above.

I.e., you wrap a wire around a screw/post clockwise so that tightening the screw draws the wire around the screw *with* the screw's motion. How do you describe the "initial placement" of said wire? I.e., it wants to be "to the left" of the post (but left and right have no meaning in this context; and clockwise/counterclockwise only refer to the direction in which you *wrap* the wire -- not *place* it!)

For example, placing the wire such that tightening the screw *frays* the individual strands is A Bad Thing. How do you refer to the "side" of the screw that causes this result? (without saying "wrap the wire around the post in a clockwise manner" -- since some wires are NOT wrapped around a post ... e.g. solid wire that under some sorts of connectors)

As an aside, I recently noticed a Hubbel (?) power plug had a guide for *insulation* length as well as "stripping length" molded into the plastic. I'd seen the latter in many places before. But, this was a first for the former! (turned out to be "spot on", too!)

Which leads to a common sailor's problem: it is preferred that the movable ballast (passengers) sit on the windward side, but piss off the leeward.

Simple: just carry "well hung" pasengers! ;-)

--
Since a normally-threaded screw is turned clockwise to tighten it, the
correct wire placement would always be on the left hand (port) side of
the screw when viewing it from the headed side of the screw.

JF

I would never solder a multi stranded wire protected by a 6-16 A mains fuse.

If there is a shot circuit, the current could be something like 50-100 A, creating a lot of heat in a bad junction, heating the soldered wire ends and deforming the wire.

After replacing the fuse, there would be a bad connection creating a significant amount of heat.

If the mains fuse is blown, at least check each screw terminal for bad connections.

I prefer to make sure there is plenty of natural flotation around, but whatever floats your boat. ;-)

Depends on what it is (for me). I personally think solder is the better choice if oxidation is a concern. Wires can get pretty dirty and grimey over time.

Some here have said solder might cause wire breakage in vibration settings. I've never experienced that, but I suppose it is possible, soldered or not. Ferrule or not.

Oh - I generally don't bother with ferrules unless its spec. Too much hassle for the benefit, in my humble opinion -- though I sure there are instances where their use is essential. Again, I just don't know of any -- and frankly, don't work with terminal strips _that_ often....

My $ 0.02

-mpm

Angular directions are most specifically denoted by the right hand rule. Point your thumb in the direction of the axis, and your fingers will curl around the direction of positive rotation.

The problem then becomes specifying the 'thumb vector' consistently, but that's a bit easier now since "into the surface" is true no matter what direction you're looking at it (whereas the rotation is reversed if you flip the axis!).

Tim

--
Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk.
Website: http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

No, you're still missing the distinction! The direction the wire

*approaches* the screw from plays a role. E.g., Red Right Return is different from Red Right Depart! :>

So, you have to think in terms of the tip of the wire in relationship to the balance of the wire. I.e., if you are standing at the tip WITH THE REST OF THE WIRE BEHIND YOU, then your approach to the screw would keep *it* on your right. If, OTOH, you were standing at the tip with the balance of the wire IN FRONT of you, then you would keep the screw on your left.

Or, from your analogy, whether the wire approaches you (standing on the head of the screw) "head on" or creeps up on you from behind.

There are two references here -- how you refer to the wire and how you refer to the screw (post).

Think of how you would explain this to "a guy off the street" (not someone in s.e.d)

No. Think about it. There "reference" needs to be the body (or the tip?) of the wire.

E.g.,

=======---- O

and

----========== O

are both on the same "side" of the post (O). But, will yield different results when the screw is tightened.

Yes! And, for any flotation device to be effective, they need to be displayed -- er, um, *worn* -- prominently AT ALL TIMES! I always seem to have a problem getting compliance on this issue... :-(

But you're not going to offer *that* explanation in a casual conversation. E.g., imagine telling someone how NOT to attach a frayed cord to a replacement power plug in casual convesation at a party. AFAICT, you have to describe *wrapping* the wire "trong way" and then describe how the screw's motion pushes it out from under the screw in order for folks to remember what you've told them. You can't just say "to the left", etc.

(of course, if you're *at* a party, chances are they'll be too blitzed to remember, anyway! :> )

It's just one of those words that seems to be missing from the language.

Just like the word to describe the "dance" two people do when they approach each other (walking) and both (coincidentally) step one way (the same way) to avoid each other. Then, simultaneously realize they are, once again, on a collision course and *both* step back the other way. Again realize their common error, etc.

I.e., this happens often enough that one would think we would have a term for it (even a colloquial one!).

On the other hand, we have words like "Automatonophobia" (sheesh! how often does *that* come up in conversation??)

Thanks all the responses. :)

No.

IF you attempt to solder just the tips, it invariably gets up into the whole end, beyond 'just the tips'.

Once installed properly, one NEVER needs to worry about "fraying".

Yes. It is referred to in the industry as "solder creep" It also occurs with plastics.

The twisted wire bundle is fin as well. Unless you are some dope that thinks it is ok to hang weight on the wire causing a tensile force on the terminal position. That is also a dumb practice.

Ever heard of rental? You do not need to add pins. Also, IF you did want to add pins, you could solder those on. Solder creep will not occur in such a case.

You put up some stupid topics. Especially since they have been covered several times here.

You should NEVER "tin" or solder fill ANY wire that is meant to be terminated into a cinch type terminal where the connection is dependent on the wire being compressed between two metallic elements.

The reason: Solder creep. The solution: Don't do it.

Not one reference to creep.

Amateur response.

block.

The current doesn't do it, idiot. Solder creeps under PHYSICAL stress. PERIOD.

NO. It does NOT "cold flow" Stop mixing terms used for effects of other realms. NO, it does NOT crumble. Solder NEVER "crumbles", idiot.

It CREEPS period. Look it up, dipshit!

This group is full of dolts and idiots.