Panel mount terminal block

Oct 15, 2013 44 Replies

So I?ve got a little plastic box and I want to make connections on the ou tside.



I thought of a terminal block soldered to the pcb that ?sticks? through a hole. But it doesn?t really work. (Well it?d work but it looks like cr@p.)



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That?s an attempt at a mock-up. (It?s about 0.6 inches from the top of the pcb to the top of the box.) (I?ve ordered some bigger (5mm) terminal blocks, they may be OK.)



So some kind of panel mount terminal block would be ideal. Banana plugs are just a bit too big and clunky.



Any ideas?



Thanks George H.



PS searching digikey I found this... it?s a bit big.

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gh a hole.

Well, your cut-out is crappy :-; So are mine.

We are in the same boat, so to speak.

Molding a new enclosure would be too expensive. I am thinking about moldin g small rectangular covers to hide the cut-outs

Are *you* the only one fiddling with the connections? Or, do users have to be able to do this as well? How coarse/fine can the connection

*points* be? What sort of wire diameters?

How robust does the mechanism have to be? Strain relief, etc.? Do you want it to be easy to disconnect/reconnect? Or, semi-permanent?

--- Cinch 1-140-Y?

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or maybe:

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-- JF

You can get "DIN rail enclosures" that are designed for PCBs with terminal blocks sticking out, or have terminals built into them.

John Devereux

Den tirsdag den 15. oktober 2013 18.30.21 UTC+2 skrev George Herold:

outside.

gh a hole.

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at 12mm is it slightly short of your 0.6 inch

or

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if you wan to go through the side instead

-Lasse

ough a hole.

.)

Just 'bojjed'(sp) a hole with a mill. For production we'll use professiona ls. :^)

ing small rectangular covers to hide the cut-outs

I think you guys are missing the point. The cut-out on the enclosure is crappy, not the connector itself.

Maybe something from this series?

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They're pluggable terminal strips.

Yes, that appears to be the basic problem - too big and too crude. The actual terminal block looks fine, if it suits what you are doing.

Or get someone with either (depends on your local availability) the ability to make and use a router template to make a NICE cutout, or use a CNC router to perform the same job (third option for the dreadfully-trendy - 3-D print a new enclosure, but it won't be cost-competitive.) In some markets you may have an easier time finding a CNC milling machine, which is overkill but will work.

Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

e outside.

ough a hole.

.)

)

Hi Don, This will for students making connections. There will be some str ain relief in the wires. But mostly I figure if they break it they can mak e a new wire. I guess at some time the terminal block may break... but tha t can be replaced by a competent tech. There will be some disconnect-recon nect. We could go with just permanent wires.. but then there are always wi res flapping around. And the unit it attaches to (an LED) will not be use d all the time, so some way to disconnect would be nice.

George H.

Hmm OK I thought the barrier strips would be too big, but maybe I can find a small one.

Thanks, George H.

? through a

ike cr@p.)

lding

It's hard to match the existing texture of the enclosure, no matter how wel l you cut it. Cheaper to just mold the cut-out cover to match the connecto r. While we are at it, might as well mold the connector itself. Since we are spending for tooling, might as well sell them to other users. Well, we are starting a new connector business, unless and/or until we found someth ing better.

On Tuesday, October 15, 2013 1:25:53 PM UTC-4, Lasse Langwadt Christensen w rote:

e outside.

ough a hole.

.)

)

Hmm OK thanks Lasse. I'll order a handful of those too. (I was thinking of a one piece solution, but two might work just fine.)

George H.

outside.

ugh a hole.

)

Hmm OK that I could at least mount that the panel.

I see a long digikey order in my future. Thanks Spehro

? through a

ike cr@p.)

No no... We can make a nicer cut-out. The terminal block is too far down i nto the hole... I've got to leave the hole big near the edges to get wire a nd screw driver in there. You know as a 'stupid' solution, I could mount t he terminal block on a piece of PCB and bolt that to the under side of the panel. (We already use these terminal blocks somewhree else, so no new par ts.)

George H.

lding

ay.

Yes, i've look at that one, but end up with another one slightly different. I think they are 1 RMB each. I picked up 100 of two sizes while shopping in China, it's always 80% off sale in China, compared to digikey. I'll post some pictures later.

into the hole... I've got to leave the hole big near the edges to get wire and screw driver in there. You know as a 'stupid' solution, I could mount the terminal block on a piece of PCB and bolt that to the under side of th e panel. (We already use these terminal blocks somewhree else, so no new p arts.)

We have the connector mounted to the edge of the board and corner of the en closure. It doesn't matter how deep is the top hole, just need to stick a screw driver down anyway.

? through > > Well, your cut-out is crappy :-;

into the hole... I've got to leave the hole big near the edges to get wire and screw driver in there. You know as a 'stupid' solution, I could mount the terminal block on a piece of PCB and bolt that to the under side of th e panel. (We already use these terminal blocks somewhree else, so no new p arts.)

Hey it doesn?t look too bad...

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(The hole will be smaller.. now I just gotta find room for two screws.)

Thanks all.

molding

a

away.

Cinch's 140 series are pretty small. I posted a photo (to abse) of what a 2-140 looks like on the top of a 2-3/4" X 2-1/8" X 1-5/8" (LWH) minibox and, if that works for you and you use the "Y" terminal option, the terminals will extend 5/16" below the block's mounting surface, so maybe you can solder the PCB to them?

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