Connecting #1gage to PCB

There are compression terminal blocks that you can use in such cases. I've never seen one that goes up that big that's just stuck on a PC board -- from a purely mechanical perspective I would feel comfortable supporting a PC board with such a block, but doing it the other way around brings up an image of a seriously broken PC board to mind.

Newark lists some standard ones that put the terminals on 5mm centers -- you could probably go from there to the manufacturer to the part that you wanted.

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Wire wrap it?

Weidmuller may have something useful, but their web site is so bad that I'm not going to volunteer to find any links.

John

Look in the PV related DC terminal blocks. Compression fittings are the norm for NEC. You may end up with a block of copper screwed to the PCB, one hole for the wire and another for the compression allen screw.

Cheers

There are (large) special terminals, with a hole for the wire and a screw (in the body) that clamp down on the wire. I think ther are some with PC mounting tabs that make them mechenacially acceptable, and flow soldering will take care of the rest. So far, what i have been able to find in the Mouser catalog, is a crimp-on ring, where a screw could go thru the hole and coresponding hole on a PCB. Hmm..look on page 1226 figures J and K which are close to what i first mentioned (no mounting stakes tho). Go to the Panduit site and search for the CX125-14-QY copper lug; very much like the items just mentioned, but with a very nice close-up photo. Download their 2-page PDF to see the variants that are available. Press-fit turret lugs are another possibility, i think that some have a hole large enough to accept such a large wire sise, and then it would have to be sweat-soldered in place.

Be advised that the copper foil beneath the lug needs to be thick and rather wide to carry large currents.

Thank you very much. That is something that I was looking for. The copperpour will be 4 oz.

Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things)

void _-void-_ in the obvious place

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Why? If you want to measure current you can do a '4 wire' setup and avoid that sort of connection.

I do not need to measure the current. I need to deliver it to the PCB. This is for a electric furnace control board. The six elements will be switched with individual relays. It adds up.

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    Boris Mohar

I'd go to the trouble of providing a substantial physical (mechanical) mounting for the wire itself, such that it's positioned to hold the terminal in its "natural" position where it connects to the board.

There's no way I'd depend on anything less than about 7/16 - 1/2" epoxy glass to secure a monster like that. Geez, just stand the wire up and screw the board to it! ;-)

Anyway, let us know what you decide, and how it comes out, m'kay? :-)

Good Luck! Rich

Terminal blocks you say? ;-)

Cheers! Rich

Use wire. Truly. The repair people will bless you.

Cheap and effective or expensive and effective?

Why would you want to stripe the insulation?

Jim

Strip presumably.

That might be what your customer would like, but you might want to check local industrial cabling regulations first. I have worked on several jobs where stranded cables were required to be first secured inside a crimped ferrule. This is to prevent loose strands from accidentally shorting to another terminal.

Bringing in multiple cables instead of one big one could make life a lot easier.

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Tony Williams.

0 AWG = 8.2mm diameter There might be something at the electrical distributor... Here's one scrappy example... I'm not sure but I think I've seen a metal BX cable strain relief for electrical boxes that could act as a cheap wire clamp. Comes with ring like nut and can be fastened thru a hole in the PCB. It'll bridge the PCB sides. It probably can be soldered on. D from BC

Homer J Simpson a écrit :

and the prod people will trash him every day...

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Thanks,
Fred.

a PCB.

approved

board,

capable

(mechanical)

I would agree with you Rich.

For making cable connections to a PCB using such a large gauge it is better to have the wires ends mounted in substantial brass terminal blocks which are in permanent fixed positions. When the PCB is mounted in its final position the brass terminal blocks are then secured to the PCB pads with appropriate sized screws and locking washers. You certainly don't want cables coming from a cable form or some-such arrangement and then trying to secure the flying ends to the boards. Fix the cables solidly in place and then bolt on the PCB as though you were using solid copper bus-bar instead of flexible cable.

I would think that for many reasons, feeding six "htos" to the board from a bus bar would be better than one huge cable and splitting it on the pcb to the heaters. Cost -wise, probably cheaper. Installation- wise easier. If one feed, one bad heater could not be detected, a shorted one could take them all offline. Etc. Etc. Etc.

You could take a look at Anderson's Power Poles. Their direct PCB connectors only go up to 6Ga but they do have a bus bar that does go up to 1, see the PP180. However, I don'think it fits your minimal prep requirement, you'd have to crimp a pin on to the wire.

Robert

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I cannot find any realistic use for bonding such a large cross section conductor to any PCB for any reason. In part because i do not know of any PCB that has equivalent cross section traces. Give the PCB a break, you are in copper busbar territory.

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 JosephKK
 Gegen dummheit kampfen die Gotter Selbst, vergebens.  
  --Schiller