Capacitor codes

Either 1uF, or the point is invisible making it 0.1?

Metal case something, or regular aluminum electrolytic? If it's not aluminum then probably dry tantalum.

Tim

-- Deep Friar: a very philosophical monk. Website:

Be thankful it has markings. I've seen parts with nothing marked on them.

If it's polarized, that small, and only 50v rating, I would guess it's an electrolytic (or possibly a tantalum) at 0.1uF 50V.

It could also be in nano farads, making it a 1000nF or 0.1uF.

ceramics are not polarized.

How do you know it's bad? If it leaked toxic brown goo, or sprayed confetti everywhere, then it's probably an electrolyic. If it belched toxic noxious fumes, it's a tantalum.

Are there any other like capacitors in the device you are working on?

If it is shorted, it's probably a tantalum. If it's open, then aluminum electrolytic. :) If there was a fire, it's definitely tantalum.

Where is it in the circuit? Power supply, timing, filter???

But

n.

lly

I'm going to take a SWAG and say the K stands for Kemet.

Could there be more markings on the rest of the package, or have you already removed it from the circuit?

Not yet removed. Its kind of stuffed between other components, so if there's something on the bottom, I'll have to pull it to check. But I'd be surprised to see the polarity and voltage marked on one side (along with this mystery code) and the value marked on the other. They usually put all these attribute markings together and part numbers elsewhere. That's what makes me think the 1K is value.

Looks like metal with a translucent, tan colored plastic covering. The coloring could be due to aging. This thing (my truck) is about 35 years old.

Nothing similar to this. Its a pretty simple circuit. A half dozen Rs, a few diodes, two transistors.

Hi,

maybe it is a capacitor with 1000uF.

You could measure it. Go to a store where they have a meter.

Put it together with some resistor and apply a rect. Take an oscilloscope and get the time-constant.

Look into the datasheet of the manufacturer like this

best markus

Am 26.05.2012 04:28, schrieb Paul Hovnanian P.E.:

You're an idiot. The designations for the device value and voltage rating, etc. and the company ID info are not going to appear mingled together.

The reference mark many times will connote the dielectric medium.

He gave us the VALUE ID info already, ya dope. Likely no other markings, or he would have mentioned it in his first, quite concise enough post.

Use your brain. How big would a 50 volt 1000 microfarad capacitor be physically?

Much larger than a tenth of an inch by a third of an inch. Get REAL.

"Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote in news:buudnX_U2rL4ol3SnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@posted.isomediainc:

If it's polarized, it's presumably an electrolytic. As a guess, that would be about the right size for a 1 uFd 50V cap. On the otherhand, if the "K" is a tolerance mark, that's pretty unusual for an electrolytic.

Doug White

I'd like to join the consensus saying "1" - maybe a hard to read point, and offer the opinion that "K" could be a tolerance code.

sounds like a low ESR cap used to absorb transients. The "K" meant something, I just can't remember what now ..

Jamie

What sealing method is used? Does the positive/isolated lead have a weld/bump close to the point of entry? If so, it would identify a tantalum part. Aluminium or film parts will have no bump.

Seeing as the part is dead (how determined?), you can always section it to examine guts. Plastic foil would suggest lower values (pF nF). Paper foil or slug would drive higher values ( 100nF uF).

As per value - you can always sub in parts to witness ~ circuit function. Motor control / wiper speed etc.

RL

Small parts will use the whole can. Romove one end to view full body.

RL

Timing. Its in a circuit looking for more/less than 1800 RPM from an ignition coil pickup. So I figure the ckt has a time constant of about

That's what made me wonder about the 1K * 1pF interpretation. 1uF seems more reasonable. Its shorted, but if its a tantalum (or whatever) its in a current limited circuit. I don't see any external evidence of failure, but things that go 'Bang' usually do so in low impedance circuits when they short.

Its out now. Holding it with the (+) lead to the left, there are three lines of markings:

• NCC + 1K50V + @118

The '@' is actually a circle with letter 'M' in it.

Panasonic? They don't appear to advertise tantalums though.

Funny, NCC-Matsuo makes a "111" axial tantalum... don't suppose 118 was an older series, rather than the date code one might expect there?

Anyway, it sounds like a M39003 spec dry tantalum, hermetically sealed. Not as coveted as the M39006 wet slug types, unfortunately (which are mentioned in either AoE or some LT appnotes as being extremely low leakage -- after a sufficient soaking period -- and dangerously expensive!).

Tim