Book on Analog Prototyping techniques

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Hee!

I will take your word for it.

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I get straight lines only by running PCBs on my milling machine. Perhaps I could also do that with a straightedge and a routing attachment.

--Winston

Reply to
Winston
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I didn't see any wobble in those cuts at all. That explains it.

In addition, I put my boards in an electroless tin plating solution. It makes fingerprints temporary' instead of permanent.

Best I've found is to use a CNC mill. I made a couple double-sided boards that way many years ago. It was troublesome and time - consuming but the boards turned out much better than any fabrication technique I'd tried earlier.

Obviously, when I'd uploaded my Gerbers and had professionals make boards, they turned out much better than anything I'd done myself.

Build one using plans from June 1963?

4:1, 2:1 or 1.3:1 reductions in 2D or 3D!:
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Another version, better documented:

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--Winston

Reply to
Winston

Maybe if you marry a vertical Dremel holder with something like this?

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--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

Is that legal in California?

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

--
"it's the network..."                          "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com             Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog  Info for designers:  http://www.speff.com
Reply to
Spehro Pefhany

I cut some recent chunks with a hacksaw. It's hell on blades, but it makes a nice straight cut, and blades are cheap.

-- Cheers, James Arthur

Reply to
dagmargoodboat

Every once in a while I grab a sheet of FR4 and shear it up into random sized rectangles for breadboarding, and stash them in a baggie under my workbench.

I use a sheet metal shear. My production manager won't let me use the nice new foot shear on FR4, so I have to use the old cheap rusty hand-crank vertical shear/brake/roll thing.

I haven't noticed any edges sharp enough to cut skin.

John

Reply to
John Larkin

If it does, a few passes with a file will take them right off and round the edges. Sand paper works too.

Reply to
krw

Are any power tools legal in California? They have Prop-65 warnings on screwdrivers.

Reply to
krw

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Like this?

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--Winston

Reply to
Winston

DIY?

Reply to
Robert Baer

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Like this?

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--Winston

Reply to
Winston

Yeah, but you know how that is when you want really quick result. Had that happen at a client. Suddenly there was blood in the area. Embarrassing.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

I think he knows why :-)

That's because the blade is probably completely dull from decades of abuse and it more or less "squishes off" chunks of FR-4 :-)

But hey, if it woiks it woiks.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

Not if same sex :-)

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

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Yep, but I guess considering that these are

Reply to
Joerg

anymore.

It only takes two seconds per side.

In that case, I certainly wouldn't want you near my woodworking tools. ;-)

Reply to
krw

I have a set of aviation shears with serrated blades that I use for FR-4. They've worked fine for years. The smooth bladed ones get dull much faster.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs (in San Jose for a few days)

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
Reply to
Phil Hobbs

Glass dust is hell on the bearings, though.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
Reply to
Phil Hobbs

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Bearings are very inexpensive if you buy them correctly.

Replacing the entire Dremel is US$35.00.

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--Winston

Reply to
Winston

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Reply to
Winston

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