(...)
Hee!
I will take your word for it.
I get straight lines only by running PCBs on my milling machine. Perhaps I could also do that with a straightedge and a routing attachment.
--Winston
(...)
Hee!
I will take your word for it.
I get straight lines only by running PCBs on my milling machine. Perhaps I could also do that with a straightedge and a routing attachment.
--Winston
I didn't see any wobble in those cuts at all. That explains it.
In addition, I put my boards in an electroless tin plating solution. It makes fingerprints temporary' instead of permanent.
Best I've found is to use a CNC mill. I made a couple double-sided boards that way many years ago. It was troublesome and time - consuming but the boards turned out much better than any fabrication technique I'd tried earlier.
Obviously, when I'd uploaded my Gerbers and had professionals make boards, they turned out much better than anything I'd done myself.
Build one using plans from June 1963?
4:1, 2:1 or 1.3:1 reductions in 2D or 3D!:Another version, better documented:
--Winston
Maybe if you marry a vertical Dremel holder with something like this?
-- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Is that legal in California?
Best regards, Spehro Pefhany
-- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
I cut some recent chunks with a hacksaw. It's hell on blades, but it makes a nice straight cut, and blades are cheap.
-- Cheers, James Arthur
Every once in a while I grab a sheet of FR4 and shear it up into random sized rectangles for breadboarding, and stash them in a baggie under my workbench.
I use a sheet metal shear. My production manager won't let me use the nice new foot shear on FR4, so I have to use the old cheap rusty hand-crank vertical shear/brake/roll thing.
I haven't noticed any edges sharp enough to cut skin.
John
If it does, a few passes with a file will take them right off and round the edges. Sand paper works too.
Are any power tools legal in California? They have Prop-65 warnings on screwdrivers.
(...)
Like this?
--Winston
DIY?
(...)
Like this?
--Winston
Yeah, but you know how that is when you want really quick result. Had that happen at a client. Suddenly there was blood in the area. Embarrassing.
-- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/
I think he knows why :-)
That's because the blade is probably completely dull from decades of abuse and it more or less "squishes off" chunks of FR-4 :-)
But hey, if it woiks it woiks.
-- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Not if same sex :-)
-- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Yep, but I guess considering that these are
anymore.
It only takes two seconds per side.
In that case, I certainly wouldn't want you near my woodworking tools. ;-)
I have a set of aviation shears with serrated blades that I use for FR-4. They've worked fine for years. The smooth bladed ones get dull much faster.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs (in San Jose for a few days)
-- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 845-480-2058 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net
Glass dust is hell on the bearings, though.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
-- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 845-480-2058 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net
(...)
Bearings are very inexpensive if you buy them correctly.
Replacing the entire Dremel is US$35.00.
--Winston
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