I'm replacing a couple of capacitors in speaker crossover. The parts have a glue that holds them tight to the PCB, the glue is still a little bit rubbery after 33 years. (Pioneer HPM-700) What can I use that will do the same job, without solvent damage to the electronic parts?
Mikek
Sounds like RTV Silicone. That's what I use for heavier components subject to vibration. eg...
Cheers
A little hot melt?
On Tue, 6 Oct 2015 08:54:27 -0500, amdx Gave us:
Hot melt
Thanks Guys, A 10 minute search and a phone call to the wife, I just had to dig deeper into where I thought the hot glue was.
Mikek
On Tue, 6 Oct 2015 10:10:51 -0500, amdx Gave us:
It is all over your synapses and holding your eyelids shut.
Expectations. I was looking for the orange power cord. It was in a bookcase behind other items, in a bag. I couldn't see the orange cord through the bag. In other words, it was my wife's fault!
Mikek :-)
Lexel Adhesive Caulk
read the fine print. can use on polycarbonate as I did, so most anything it sticks to and remains slightly flexible.
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I bought a gun-sized tuber for the bathtub, etc. but havenn't used it yet.
On Tue, 6 Oct 2015 17:22:58 -0500, amdx Gave us:
snip
Now, it appears that you are very lucky that she doesn't read Usenet news group posts.
On Tue, 06 Oct 2015 23:07:03 -0700, OldGuy Gave us:
What does the chinese use on SMPS inductors, caps, etc.?
I mean I have seen RTV and hot melt, but there are some that use some yellowish "caulk" type stuff that is a bit more turgid (for lack of a better term).
The caps have been replaced, the speakers work. I think! This a 4 way speaker with the super tweeter crossover frequency at 12kHz. I can't hear past 11kHz. I plan on selling these speakers, so I want to verify they do operate. I did verify operation out of the cabinet driving the super tweeters with a signal generator. I need to hook my sig gen to my amp and listen to the super tweeter with a mic and scope while in the cabinet. Where is teenager when you need one?
Mikek
** Over the last few decades, electronics factories in Taiwan and China have often usde a quick drying, yellow coloured adhesive to secure small components parts to PBCs - it looks very similar to contact cement.
But there is a MASSIVE problem: over time and with a little heat it becomes brittle, corrosive and conductive !!!
When applied to plated copper leads, it eats right through them. If applied to the enamelled wire found on inductors, it destroys them too.
If applied across adjacent pins of a semiconductor, leakage current develops that causes everything from cracking noises to small fires and explosions.
In most cases, every bit of it has to be laboriously scraped off and new parts fitted to replace corroded or burnt ones. Damaged inductors need to be rewound.
There is now also a black coloured version that behaves the same way.
Very bad news.
.... Phil
.... Phil
Wow! Thanks, Phil, that is golden info. Much appreciated.
.... John
Sony had the same, turning conductive problem with some adhesive they used on VCRs in the 80's. Probably other products also. Mikek
You might try an SPL meter, or perhaps your wife hasn't read this thread and will help? ;-) You might try measuring the impedance of the speaker assembly across the audio band, too. You should be able to see the crossover and tweeter.
Save them for setting clocks. ;-)
The older (and some available today) RTVs have a high acetic acid content. I'd expect them to play hell on PCBs, as well.
On Wed, 7 Oct 2015 07:49:45 -0500, amdx Gave us:
Feed the amp with the sig gen to spot the crossover points.
Drive with no more than 150mV
On Wed, 07 Oct 2015 11:52:13 -0400, krw Gave us:
Not the door caulk crap, idiot.
Use the mil spec stuff...
Dow Corning 3145 RTV
Mil spec, no outgassing. Top quality shtuff. Available on Amazon at a premium price.
Found it on ebay
Mil spec stuff...
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