Cap ID & value?

replacements.

15 seconds of effort on Google and you'll have all of your answers.

Thus spake Dave:

That is a worthless statement.

Why do you think that we all have the same abilities or experience to Google this topic? It all depends on what terms you use. You apparently use more accurate terms, as I have spend much time searching and find no answer. Not being an expert at this topic, I'm wasting much more than 15 seconds to find the meagre results I came up with. At what point to you ask yourself "Someone must know this answer." Should we all not use USENET at all? What the hell is its purpose if not to ask questions? At what point do I ask for help?

If you can't answer the question ASKED, don't bother to reply.

--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

Google on "capacitor markings"

You're welcome.

Google

Not

find

"Someone

is

"Capacitor identification" keyed into Google search = >437,000 hits.

Dare I ask what you were using for search terms? If you are too lazy or stupid to perform the above, I am not inclined to spoon-feed you. Sorry.

Obviously you are too lazy to read my post.

PLONK.

Ooops - sorry Dave, I thought you were DaveC. My apologies.

BTW, when I Google on ""Capacitor identification" I get: Results 1 - 20 of about 647 English pages for "Capacitor identification". (0.12 seconds)

Thus spake Dave:

Most of the first page of these hits are all about capacitor value determination (markings decode), nothing that can tell me what KIND these caps are.

Anyone help me find out what kind these caps are?

Thanks,

--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

Read my post again.

Thus spake Travis Jordan:

I did. Prior to my last post I Googled with your terms.

I find lots and lots of "how to decode cap markings" but nothing to help me identify the KIND of caps these are.

These may very well be tantalum or ceramic or poly-something, or some other kind that is shown on these pages, but they sure don't look like them.

If I'm missing something, please help. If all you have time to do is call names and insult, don't bother.

--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

I think you are missing the " (quotes). The very first link that Google returns is what you need.

There's nothing on that site re. cap. identification other than some info on decoding markings. The TYPE markings don't correspond to anything on these caps.

--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

I'm afraid your going to have to get out a general component supplier catalogue and look at the pretty pictures!

The 104K refers to the value (100000pf) and the temp co-efficient. The K5R is the dielectric used in the manufacture of the cap

+35M is the working voltage - not sure of the M.

But you really need to find the manufacturer (by looking for similar pictures) and then search their site for caps that match the ones youve got.

By the way I can't access your pictures (even when I fix for the word-wrap).

Alan

-- Sell your surplus electronic components at

Search or browse for that IC, capacitor, crystal or other component you need.

Sorry that should read: The 104K refers to the value (100000pf) and the tolerance (10%). The K5R is the dielectric used in the manufacture of the cap

+35M is the working voltage M = 20% tolerance.

Alan

-- Sell your surplus electronic components at

Search or browse for that IC, capacitor, crystal or other component you need.

I can't get to the urls you posted (I get a yahoo forbidden, even when I avoid the line wrap). In all probability the type is non-critical. You could probably use anything in a plastic film or ceramic of the right value, but choose whatever you can get with the highest temperature rating. In a car, things can get hot.

Ed

on

Approximately 30 seconds of searching. You're welcome.

Thus spake Ross Herbert:

Sorry for the bogus links. When I tested them they worked for me (doncha hate that?). Apparently Yahoo allows "storage" of files for my retrieval only. What's that about?

Here's my original post with good links.

Thanks for your help. - - - Trying to determine type of caps these three are so as to find replacements. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

In the case that the identical type (ie, tantalum, etc.) is not available locally, what type can I use to replace these? I have this selection to choose from at my local electronics shop: - monolythic ceramic - ceramic Disc - dipped tantalum and a limited selection of: - dipped silver mica (metallized polyester film) - mylar (metallized polyester)

If these are inappropriate as replacements, I'll order the appropriate ones, but would like to get this fixed today.

These caps are used on a car alarm PCB (not in the RF stage).

(All of these caps are "tubular" in shape; no vertical height, per se.) - - - First unknown is here:

Markings: 104K K5R

100000pF ? Unpolarized. What's "K5R" ? - - - Second unknown is here:

Markings: 474K +35M

470000pF ? 35v ? Presume "+" indicates polarity. - - - Third unknown is here:

This is ceramic (axial), yes?

--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

Cap look like a Tantalum. Value looks like .1 uf

That looks like a monolithic. Value looks like .47 uf

The item in the middle of the pic looks like a resistor. Off to the right looks like a monolithic.

Why are you replacing these parts? The cap types pictured typically don't change value like an electrolytic would in the heat of a car. In fact, both monolithic, and tantalum caps have a habit of failing shorted, followed by open if there's enough current. They are then easy to find ; )

Thus spake ehsjr:

-=-=-=-

Thanks for your reply, Ed.

The first of the caps has a tapered end which I presume is some kind of polarity indication. (See my new post with correct links to photos.) Doesn't this make it some kind of electrolytic? Or tantalum?

--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

This looks like a tantalum electrolytic cap.

I think you have the photos for 1st and 2nd items reversed.

Photo 1 is definitely a polarised cap (probably tantalum). Pic only shows +15M plus the date code 9140. So is this meant to be the

474k/+35M item?

Photo 2 is possibly KEMET AXIMAX X7R 100nF dielectric ceramic cap for which I gave the datasheet link on another NG.

No. 3rd item is a metal film resistor. As you have shown it in the photo the color code reads from R to L as RED, RED, BLACK, GOLD, BROWN (?) Please confirm last color band. If I am correct this is a 22 ohm

1% tolerance 0.25W resistor. Can you remove it and measure it with an ohm-meter?

Ross Herbert