Power connector problem

Had a look at mine as much as I'm able with it in a box. It looks like the pins are connected under the track coating but I can't be sure and don't want to disconnect everything to get a better look.

A bit of soldering iron rework is unlikely to harm it. A dry joint on connectors is almost guaranteed at some stage of use.

I've certainly found it unreliable. My personal GPS rig is now mounted in an old cigar box rather than being three things connected by leads and spread around my jacket.

I have no other equipment with micro-usb (all my camera cables etc are mini) so my power supply solution is a spare 5v psu from an access point with the barrel jack cut off and the leads soldered directly to the pi :)

It ain't pretty but it works :)

But wearable computing is the next big thing - how you goin' to attach spectacles to a cigar box?

Silly Rob! Cigarboxes are obviously hats.

-Paul

IIRC they used to be lead lined as well, so ideal for modern mind control shielding...:-)

-- Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc?-ra-cy) ? a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.

Equally ugly: I bought a short (200mm) cable connecting a standard-USB female to micro-USB male from Amazon, the smallest Maplins box I could find (50x30x20mm) and one of their small SPST snap-in rocker switches. The switch is mounted in the box, the cable runs through it with the positive (red) line cut and soldered to the switch. This plugs between the RPi and a 1 metre standard-USB male-to-male extension cable, which connects to the USB-mains adapter.

Amazingly, it all works exactly as I wanted and seems reliable. It was easier to make than to describe and saves a lot of wear and tear on the RPi's power socket.

I would have used an old-style reading-lamp inline switch if I could have found one, but the small plastic box and snap-in rocker is about as neat.

Less neat, and very lazy (I didn't have to make anything) is a plug-in RCD adaptor from CPC which has a single 13A. socket on its face. Its AC output stays off until the 'on' button is pushed and resets to 'off' when AC power is removed from the input. (Some RCDs stay in the 'on' state even when power is off, but this one resets).

The Rasp wall wart is plugged into the RCD adaptor's socket so I can turn on everything except the Rasp (which seems to like an already-functioning HDMI connection before booting) and then push the 'on' button to boot the Rasp. To remove power fom the Rasp I just push the RCD adaptor's 'test' button. As I said, very lazy.

But the neutrinos still get through....

Readily available from eBay, Amazon, Wilko ...

hardwrare stores, DIY stores (wickes, b&q.....)