Kodak Z650 6Mp digital camera

3V input

7 presumably fuses found, 1.8 x 0.8mm with black letters over a white central square F001,S F101 K F102 S

103 N 104 N 105 S 106 K

104 and 106 are open, so do the letters mean as Schurter SM fuse letter codes

0.375 Amp E 0.5 Amp F 0.75 Amp G 1 Amp H 1.25 Amp J 1.5 Amp K 2 Amp N 2.5 Amp O 3 Amp P 4 Amp S

I suppose temporarily replace with whatever of that rating and power up on

1V initially and see what happens on draw current then replace properly if no other problem

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

At least 3 types of ZIF Kapton Polyimide ? ribbon sockets . 2 types I've come across but the CCD one is ground planed stripline form of 34 conductors with staggered interlaced lands at the socket so 2 lines of 17 on one side. At the time I thought there was a moveable closure but further inspection I'm not sure. Came out with some retaining force so not ZIF perhaps but not fully clamped like usual ZIF ones when locked in. Under microscope it ooks like individual pressure wedge tongues for closure force, is it a matter of usual reinforcement with some cloth tape wrapped around ribbon and then forcing back in ?

conductors

side.

not

of

Getting a white LED light into the slot and veiwing with a microscope, there are 2 sets of curved brass contacts, I could not see the recessed set of 17 before, so low force rather than zero force. the fingers are just alignment I think . Will make some sort of alignment jig, to keep ribbon parallel either to top of connector or the pcb, before replacing that one .

Anyone know the likely current drain from 3V battery for a digital camera? Replaced as 1.5A and 2A fuses and taken BAT+ up to 1.8V, 1.5A supply and no signs of life. F001 , rated S so perhaps 4 amp rating is the overall supply fuse, not blown previously so presumably I could try up to 4 amp. I assume its now a matter of finding a crowbar device somewhere connected to the 2 previous blown fuses . At least a diode in line with the bat+ line but not traced on visible surface of boards

I doubt you'll see life until you get much closer to the design voltage (3.x volts). Until then the power supply/control circuits are likely keeping it off to prevent undervoltage problems.

What are the battery specifications (output MA)? That would be a good starting point: the camera would certainly not draw more than that amount of current.

camera?

no

blown

matter

At the moment I'm following the heat. Component marking XR

5 F1 on the now accessed reverse side of the board, perhaps 5V VTS designed to short , next job after scripting this , to try and identify. looks suspicious at the moment as far as heat is concerned and 2 apparent supplies (separate traces) at switched rail voltage? fuse voltage common anyway. Powered up for a few seconds to 2.5 amp 2.1V Bat+ on F001 and 2.0V on all fuses, wheras cold testing there is 0.6 V diode test between them. Main on/off sw is inactive as far as current drain being continuous, no change on main sw setting

camera?

no

blown

matter

second attempt

At the moment I'm following the heat. Component marking XR

5 F1 perhaps 5V VTS designed to short next job after scripting this , to try and identify, looks suspicious at the moment as far as heat is concerned and 2 apparent supplies (separate traces) at switched rail voltage? fuse voltage common anyway. Powered up for a few seconds to 2.1V Bat+ on F001 and 2.0V on all fuses, wheras cold testing there is 0.6 V diode test between them

and

and

I don't suppose Exar have a list of topcodes anywhere

The SOT235 , 5 pin SM, topcode XR 5 F1 is probably a buck boost, an inductor connects the 3V line to another of its pins. No Exar SOT235/SOT23-5 package buck boost data found so far. Putting a 0.5 amp limited 3V supply to the fuses on this board only, 2 ribbons disconnected to other areas, then current drain is 60 to 90mA. I cannot decide whether to try reconnecting all and powering from 3V, 4 amp or tracing back to wherever the main power switch is. Switching main sw on/off/on made no difference to the large 2V current drain

With the 3 boards connected and some of the ribbons disconnected inc LCD and backlight but not necessarily its inverter if inside that unit and "viewer" n/c but CCD connected. Gradually increased to 3V and 1.83 amp consumption on 2.5 amp limited supply, so now check a few voltages and then reconnect everything and try again

Don't forget that there may be high initial current for housekeeping. Several cameras that I own, when you install batteries, do a shutdown cycle immediately (retract lens/or cover it, etc.) to put the camera in a known state.

What maybe a motor driver chip (only a Google hint) , 52 pin M50236HP heats up 8 degree C in 15 seconds so looks like the end . Unlikely to be a power management IC, cannot find a datasheet onlt the usual crap www stuff. Had to glue a SM 1N4148 to it and remote monitor via diode test, as on the wrong side of the board. It only took a second for forward voltage to drop the first mV.