Dlink DI-524 power/reset problem

Apparently, this is fairly (relative?) common. If there is a power interruption that would result in a reset, or the power is turned off for a moment, it requires 5-10 minutes before applying power to reset properly.

Now, mine is doing this.

Has anyone seen this problem and attempted to do anything about 9it (besides complaining to Dlink, which is apparently fruitless after the

90 day warranty has expired)?

I note that the 7.5 VDC adapter reads 10 V when plugged into it (under load - no off switch).

Running on a Variac at reduced voltage has some modest effect.

Any information appreciated including "buy another brand" or something like that. :)

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Reply to
Sam Goldwasser
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I have a Dlink DI-624. Seems to fail more often when it is warm outside.

28 to 30C. So I added a small fan to the router which helps to cool it down and prevents the unit from looking up as often. rw
Reply to
Ryan Weihl

I have a number of D-Link routers at different locations. I found that after killing the power, and re-starting, they need about 1 to 2 minutes on the average to re-set.

I had one that was acting strange where it would not always start up. I did a master re-set, and that fixed it. The annoying thing about doing a master re-set, is that all the non-default set-ups had to be re-entered.

I had another router, which I cannot remember the name of, that was not starting up at times. Before binning it, I checked all the caps with an ESR meter. I found two that were not reading properly. After changing them, the router worked perfectly. I have no idea of the particular areas that these caps where part of, because I had no service information.

Jerry G. ======

Reply to
Jerry G.

Hi!

like

I have a D-Link DI-524 and it has never done that. Nor have I ever heard of it. (But I wasn't looking either.) It has always done a good job on a very small computer network. The people who are using it are not at all computer literate and would call me immediately if it didn't work. The internals are very, very simple.

On a whim, I did check the power output of the adapter with it plugged into the unit. Just like yours, it reads about 10V.

As far as other brands, I'd *highly* recommend the Buffalo WHR-G54S, WHR-G54-HP, WHR-G125 or WHR-G125-HP brand routers if you can get them. I have put many of these units out after reflashing them with DD-WRT firmware. (The reflash is easy if you have access to a TFTP program.) Not a one of them has come back and I can't recall the last time I had to pull the plug to restore order. They just stay up. In my opinion the G54 routers are prettier, but the G125 units have a 40MHz faster CPU. The G54 routers also have nice detachable antennas.

I wouldn't recommend Linksys wireless routers...normally I've had excellent performance from their equipment, but the wireless routers have been nothing but awful.

William

Reply to
William R. Walsh

OK, I'll just have to run it in the fridge (or the freezer as someone suggested on one of the reviews on Amazon). :)

So, I wonder if it's been like this for a long time and I never noticed because I don't generally power cycle the router, or it's gotten worse. This wasn't originally a power cycle issue - it locked up when my back was turned. Then, it wouldn't come back after killing power, or respond to reset. However, now it's been running all day, though I have it powered from a Variac at 100 VAC.

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Reply to
Sam Goldwasser

Thanks.

In all fairness, this is the first problem I've had with the DI-524 after more than a year of flawless performance.

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Reply to
Sam Goldwasser

videotape yourself smashing it with a hammer, and then post it on youtube.

when your done with that, post the link.

Reply to
Paul Feaker

A year? Really? Wow.

I remember a time when an electronic device didn't last at least 15 years, then it was a royal piece of shit.

Reply to
Paul Feaker

On 14 Oct 2007 13:32:19 -0400, Sam Goldwasser put finger to keyboard and composed:

I suspect that the internals are powered from onboard switchmode DC-DC converters, in which case a higher than specified external voltage would be of little, if any, consequence.

I have a D-Link DSL-302G in which the major chips run very hot. I have added heatsinks and drilled vent holes in the top of the case. I've also punched out the rows of "slats" on both sides.

FWIW, firmware updates are available here: ftp://ftp.dlink.com/Gateway/

I notice that there are revisions C, D, and E for your model. Maybe this is indicative of design problems ???

- Franc Zabkar

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Reply to
Franc Zabkar

IS YOUR GOOGLE BROKEN DICKHEAD?

Reply to
Lynn

Sam, do yourself a favor and throw it away. Go to Future Shop or Circuit City or Best Buy or WalMart and spend $30 on a new one. I have gone through about 6 DI-XXX's in the past several years. They run hot, have no fan, and are designed to burn out at that cost point. The only reason I stay with D-Link is that I can set one up (office network, can't have down time) in about 5 minutes and it's an insignificant investment to have a spare laying about.

The first D-Link wireless router I had lasted about 3 years from 2000-2003. Each subsequent iteration has died sooner than the last, while the warranty has become increasingly watered down. It's a damn shame they don't produce something which will outlast the warranty but apparently it's more cost-effective for them not to.

Dave S.

Reply to
Dave

So perhaps what one should do is install heatsinks and a fan when new. :)

Thanks.

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Reply to
Sam Goldwasser

That would be a fine idea. Or mount it in your refrigerator in a ziplock bag... probably wouldn't do great things for the range but I suppose you could always mount an external antenna.

Reply to
Dave

The Linksys BEFW11 has a notoriously bad record for crashes requiring a power cycle (especially the S4 version); a 'fix' (in order to stay on-topic here ;) ) which is really a workaround involves periodically pinging the device and when it is silent for a particular period issuing a power cycle (using an SNMP-controlled power controller). I use one of these as a wide-area access point; its electronics are mounted in a sealed metal housing, which also provides heat sinking, high on a tower -- images are available here:

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Perhaps a repackaging of the D-Link device would be in order and certainly would be a useful experiment.

Regards,

Michael

Reply to
msg

Hi!

Why?

A good quality router/wireless access point should be able to last at least until it is no longer useful. I had a Microsoft 802.11b unit, made by Accton that lost one switch port out of the blue, but it kept working until a thunderstorm gave it a good jolt. It was getting to the point where its utility was perhaps somewhat questionable--by the time it died, WEP encryption was already broken in a matter of minutes. Other than that it was almost perfectly stable.

For about $10 more, you can buy one of the Buffalo routers I already mentioned, take five minutes to flash it with alternative firmware (if you want) and have a unit that should last a very long time. I've got a few that are past their first birthday and still going along great.

William

Reply to
William R. Walsh

That's strange. I remember when the people on this board knew what they are talking about. Now, any asshole with an aioe.troll account can troll like there is no tomorrow. How PATHETIC.

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Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

have someone video tape a six year old girl beating the crap out of you, and then have someone post it on youtube.

when they're done burying with you, they can post the link.

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Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

y a 6 yo girl what r u a peadoe file do u enjoy beeting of over videos of 6 y o gurlz?

Reply to
Paige D'Winter

Update:

Well, it has been working flawlessly for the last week.

The only changes were:

  1. The DI-524 was positioned away from the DSL modem to improve cooling.

  1. The firmware was upgraded from 4.0 to 4.03. The supposed feature of the upgrade is "better performance". You mean like "it might work"? :)

I did try running it on reduced voltage, putting 3 diodes in series with the power adapter, but that was resulting in occasional peculiar behavior (different than before), possibly due to increased current required when it would transmitting pulling the adapter voltage from 10 V to the rated

7.5 V (which would then result in about 5.5 V on the router). It never crashed but seemed to reset from time to time. Now, it's back on normal unmodified power.

So, it will no doubt crash as soon as I post this, but so far, my reserve router isn't being installed.

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Reply to
Sam Goldwasser

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