An acquaintance said her TV didn't work. I knew the problem immediately: Everything including asbestos cement warps from the heat in the valley, not just mother boards.
I applied about a half dozen different bending moments to the monster with my bare hands, and, sure enough, except for some white noise on the left side, got it to work.
The Fonz would be envious.
A bungee cord / 2X4 rig could make this a permanent, if not aesthetically correct, solution.
Bret Cahill
sure.
y: Everything including asbestos cement warps from the heat in the valley, not just mother boards.
ith my bare hands, and, sure enough, except for some white noise on the lef t side, got it to work.
ly correct, solution.
The Frankenstein hasn't been attempted, but next time it goes on the blink maybe I'll post on u tube. What's really great is you don't need any tools , just put your beer down for a minute. _Happy Days_ fans will be impresse d!
I have a more plausible hack on my web page that might be worth patenting i f everyone wasn't going electric. The valve cover gasket and/or the mating surfaces were poorly designed on my vehicle. They always leaked, new gask et, new head, new rocker cover or new everything. Instead of buying a new gasket that would leak as much as the old, I went around the old gasket a c ouple of times with Teflon thread tape overlapping each time for about 4 la yers of Teflon. Four rolls of Teflon at dollar store may be enough for a V
-6 engine. You end up with a pretty snow white gasket. It worked so well I did the fuel pump spacer, the O-ring area in the distributor, the rocker cover bolts and something else that was leaking oil.
Oil leaks in dusty areas eventually make it difficult to identify bolts and other parts.
Bret Cahill
If you know what you're doing you don't need anything on car gaskets except a little bit of oil. The problem is the mating surfaces. I use a power dri ll ad a wire brush and get it really clean.
Another problem with sheet metal covers is over tightening. If the valve co vers are stamped they might get deformed by overtightening. Same thing happ ens to tranny and oil pans. They just will NOT stop leaking. This is becaus e once overtightened they are dimpled around where the bolts are and can ne ver put the proper, uniform pressure on the gasket.
The way TVs are now any which way you can. They won't properly support the product so do as thou wilt.
And you should put NOTHING on the actual head gasket. One of these days you are going to punch it to pass someone and then it will start going "thub t hub thub" soon. Either that or you can get a different leak, from the coola nt jackets to the crankcase. In this case your crankshaft bearings are in p eril. Rod bearings are not so band if you know how to use plastigauge. But main bearings can be a bitch and require the removal of the engine to repla ce. You really want to avoid that especially on a front wheel drive.
pt a little bit of oil. The problem is the mating surfaces. I use a power d rill ad a wire brush and get it really clean.
Others have tried everything so it's just a really dumb shape for a gaskete d mating surface. At least 2 areas run parallel to the bolts -- absolutely no way to apply any clamping force at all. The only thing that works is T eflon tape.
Besides this is great for a lot of other situations where you don't want to waste time running out to buy a new gasket.
Just yesterday I was checking a regulator on a old compressor. One O-ring was pretty flat. Instead of risking wasting time looking for a new O-ring I wrapped it with Teflon tape.
e product so do as thou wilt.
Dewarping isn't really all that different than banging on the TV, which, of course, you always try first.
The Mr. Coffee went out yesterday but I got the clock to go on for a few se conds by banging it. I'm guessing some goo formed over the decades and sho rted something out. I'll dry it out in the sun and bang it some more.
When an old item that probably needs to be replaced anyway goes out, I have no problem taking it apart borderline destructive, as fast as possible. I do not bother making mental notes on where which screws were removed when. If I get it back together working -- fine. If not then I didn't waste mu ch time looking at something designed by a lunatic moron. I also toss friv olous amenities that are not essential to get it to work 90% as good as new . For example, I only spend 2 minutes grinding coffee every 2 weeks so the automatic shut off was a no brainer. I like to smell the coffee as I grin d it.
Do _not_ toss protection, at least not w/o marking the appliance:
DANGER: NO FUSE DO NOT USE INDOORS
Back to the rusty compressor. I don't trust the relief valve or the pressu re gauges. I can't see inside the tank to check for rust w/o an endoscope. Fortunately it came with a long hose. Maybe put the compressor in the sh ed with the door partially closed.
Bret Cahill
Check to see if its plugged into a working circuit first.
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