I have a regular old monochromatic laser printer that uses a standard black cartridge. I have a need to print on clear labels that will be affixed to a black connector shell. Black on black ain't gonna cut it. I'd prefer white, but a yellow or some other bright color will do just fine.
Anybody seen such a beast?
Jim
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"If you think you can, or think you can\'t, you\'re right."
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I'm wondering if you can just go buy a color cartridge and steal the toner out of it. Would probably be messy as hell though. But you could try patience and steady hands. Would probably need to blow out the black cartridge with high pressure air or something.
Also, I think toner might be bad for your health (so don't breathe it), and I wouldn't be suprised if it were flammable?
Another idea I just had: Those little label makers work really well. Not all of them of course, but some of the Brother models do quite a nice job. And not too expensive.
If you don't want to go that route, you could use the same tapes that they do, affix the tape to the connector shell, and then your decal to the tape. So connector-tape-decal. Comes in white. And of course, this won't work if you need a width greater than about an inch or so. I think that could look rather professional in low prototype quantities?
No - I had a few toner refill kits with large bottles for specified printers, and a full spare toner cartage for another printer that I didn't have. Mixing and matching toners works in some cases others it doesn't not come off the drum properly, and leaves shadows, etc (makes it look like the drum is bad), or even almost no print at all with some printers. Other times it works great.
Not too bad - do it outside the first time. It's fairly dense. Have a small funnel, maybe a larger one too (when I used to do this, I made a larger one with a sheet of paper when needed)
I can't see it being good for your health. Another reson to do it outside.
What about a pad printer? Depending on your volumes, you might even be able to do them by hand, without all the fancy jigs typically involved - but I've never tried it without the fixtures.
Are the connector shells smooth or pebble-finish, or ?? What kind of shells? (I'm thinking "DB25" here.) Or more to the point, what will be the dimensions of your finished text?
My wife has a Dymo Thermal Printer, which prints on white or _transparent_ stick-on labels of a variety of sizes.
Perhaps print "negative" so that letters are clear, apply white paint on the back-side before sticking down ?:-)
Or, as it just struck me, apply the dab of white paint to the connector shell.
Or print "negative" on yellow labels?
...Jim Thompson
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| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
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True. The yellow pigment absorbs magenta and cyan light, and reflects the yellow. It's going onto a black panel, so I presume it's supposed to be reflective.
Really? What color is a "yellow" pigment, when viewed in a transparent container?
To be sure, the characteristics of the paper contributes to the final color, but to say that a "yellow" pigment transmits yellow light while blocking other wavelengths is a misleading.
If it's translucent, the colour of the background (whatever's behind the container) minus (most) blue. If it's opaque, the colour of the illumination minus blue. If it's between, then some combination of the two.
In order to function as the "Y" in "CMYK", it needs to transmit yellow light while substantially attenuating blue light[1]. It may also happen to reflect some light, but that isn't necessary for it to function as ink or toner. Too much reflection would make it unsuitable for making transparencies.
For printing on white paper, reflection is equivalent to transmission; for transparency, reflection is equivalent to absorbtion. If there's no reflection, you get the same results for both paper and transparency, which is a desirable property for general-purpose process-colour (CMYK) inks.
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