If I'm the OP you're talking about, my aerial is designed for digital. The installation was a DIY affair though (one person on the roof, another watching the set-top box's signal level menu). That procedure has been repeated a few times after the wind's blown the antenna in the wrong direction - the mounting design really isn't suited to the "watch the world blow by your window" winds out here.
Not optimal, but it shouldn't be any worse than the set-up on analogue.
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I've got a few other set-top boxes around that I could swap over. It would be a bugger of a thing to test though because you never know when the signal's going to come good of its own accord. I might get desperate enough to give it a try next time I get a week of "comes good at the end credits" pain.
On a bad night it can be out for well over 15min with the "no signal" window (or a scrambled resemblance of the last frame to make it through), so that would be a good chance to test.
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Often is with me too on a bad night. At least I can fast forward through it if I recorded a program, but I can find myself watching a different show when it comes back. It's alright most of the time though.
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With a metal cased unit you can get away with a ferrite collar on the supply lead.
If you have to go inside - you can get split ferrite clamp on collars that can be fitted without lifting any wires, the smaller sizes you're likely to want are harder to find.
Its been a possible problem with CFLs for years.
Some of the LED replacement bulbs use a wattless dropper instead of SMPSU circuitry. You might be able to adapt it, but don't forget to include a surge limiting resistor - the current is very high around the zero crossing portion of the AC waveform.
All the LED bulbs I've pulled apart had SMD resistors, so I didn't bother tracing the schematic - there was a very handy CFL blog, maybe LED bulbs have caught up.
They're not entirely dissimilar to automotive CDI - they have a transistor inverter generating about 350V for the capacitor discharge section.
Someone on one of the electronics forums was into urinating on electric fences.............
That's mad, the current will be very low around the zero crossing of the AC waveform.
When the temp in the roof gets below the high fourties I might shift the coax that must be passing near,and or try ferrite.
Did not mythbusters do one on that?
I'm about 70kms from the transmitter also and the installer has my aerial pointed upwards at about 30 degrees. I'd struggled going up and down a ladder and turning the damn thing several times myself and not getting a decent signal (but never thought to angle it upwards!) before discovering that, being disabled I was entitled to a subsidised professional install. Since it's been pointed up like that it's been great.
Best of luck.
-- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (in r.a.s.f1) (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)
No, they did "third rail". you can easily get a lot closer to the active part of a fence, and the voltage is significantly higher.
-- This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software
Can you enlighten us about that high current issue?
Three words - "rate of change".
Most of the UK rail network has been electrified with overhead lines, we used to get the occasional report of drunks getting seriously injured by urinating off bridges.
The bridge near me has had sheet steel welded over the railings over the power lines.
It has nothing to do with rate of change, the voltage by definition is close to zero, so the current is in fact very low. Ohms law.
Geez - and I thought I wasn't great at AC theory..........................
A coupling capacitor (wattless dropper) blocks DC, the AC waveform is almost that at the peaks. The capacitor only passes a rate of change - that's at its greatest around the zero crossing points.
Maybe you should lay off the booze (or whatever)........
Thanks. Unfortunately I just checked, and the aerial's design only allows horizontal adjustment. Something to keep in mind though.
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I have put such a circuit in a simulator, and except for the inrush current I don't see anything like you said. Try it yourself, like on:
$ 1 0.000005 3.452441195350251 45 5 43 s 688 96 752 96 0 0 false v 752 368 752 96 0 1 50 330 0 0 0.5 d 480 352 480 240 1 0.805904783 d 576 112 576 208 1 0.805904783 w 688 96 576 96 0 w 576 96 576 112 0 w 480 96 576 96 0 w 480 352 480 368 0 d 416 144 416 96 1 0.805904783 d 416 272 416 352 1 0.805904783 w 480 96 416 96 0 w 416 352 416 368 0 w 432 368 480 368 0
370 688 368 752 368 1 0 162 480 224 480 160 1 2.1024259 1 0 0 0.01 162 512 224 512 160 1 2.1024259 1 0 0 0.01 162 544 224 544 160 1 2.1024259 1 0 0 0.01 w 480 144 480 160 0 w 480 160 512 160 0 w 512 160 544 160 0 w 544 224 512 224 0 w 512 224 480 224 0 w 432 144 416 144 0 c 560 368 624 368 0 5e-7 -9.1361757825205 w 688 368 624 368 0 w 560 368 480 368 0 w 416 144 416 160 0 w 416 160 416 272 0 w 432 368 416 368 0 w 432 144 480 144 0 w 480 240 480 224 0 r 560 320 624 320 0 220000 w 560 320 560 368 0 w 624 320 624 368 0 w 576 208 576 224 0 w 480 240 576 240 0 w 576 240 576 224 0 o 1 64 0 2083 640 0.1 0 -1 0 o 30 64 0 2083 640 0.1 1 -1 0You have to reset the simulation and start again do get the current range to normal after the inrush. AFAIK The only important thing to remember is to use at least an X3 rated capacitor and a discharge resistor across the cap, so yo don't get zapped when touching the open pins.
Even sillier and more pig ignorant than you usually manage.
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