Remembering an earlier post, you were complaining that WiFi from your house to an outbuilding used as an office was unreliable. So a suggestion:
Run Cat5 (i.e. Ethernet) cable from your house to the outbuilding. Terminate each end (inside the houe and inside the outbuilding) with sockets so that you then use (easily replaceable) patch cables from those sockets to other equipment. (As previously mentioned, the barbs on RJ45 plugs do break off, rendering them useless. They break because of inexpert handling - don't blame yourself, it happens to all of us!)
In the house connect to your router; and in the outbuilding connect to your PoE network switch. The switch then connects to whatever computers you have in the outbuilding (and if necessary to a wireless access point to provide for those devices whoch don't have an Ethernet socket). The switch should be left powered up continuously which in an outbuilding will almost certainly keep it above its lower temperature limit. In summer it mught be worth arranging some natural ventilation.
You run cables from that switch to your cameras.
Ethernet cables run outdoors should be either outdoor grade (so will tolerate years of sunshine) or run in protective ducts - the PVC used to make them is very attractive to rats which will chew through them.
That seems drastic. I've successfully used Ethernet cables where the barb has fallen off, including one cable that has been barbless for a number of years. I could lop off the connector and re-terminate it, and I probably should, but it works fine as it is and I'm too lazy to fix things that work, so here we are.
Char, Paul, I was going to ask about this. I have one of these tools that I bought for phone cords, but the place that holds the plug is wide enough ethernet. I just need some connectors.
Mine is just plastic but it worked well. I think I have a professional model I got at a hamfest or yard sale.
The comments are mostly positive, but this is one star:
installs just trying to trim a crystal properly
What is a crystal. The plastic end? Why is he trimming it? --- Thhis is 4 stars but negative. It implies you should write down the order of the wires before cutting off the original end.
Will probably work well . but dont buy Reviewed in the United States on September 13, 2021 Model: 4in1 Tool KitVerified Purchase That is, if youve never done this before. Instead, get a pass-through crimper and plug set and your life will be easier. See, the cable wires
[What's that?] you want to splice must be unraveled into the 8 individual data wires and put into a specific color order to be inserted into the modular plug and then crimped. (By the way, the video on the page shows the order for only the rare, 568A configuration. Most systems call for the 568B configuration which orders the wires differently. Be sure you know what configuration you are working with before you order the wire colors. A
568B wire-order diagram is on the product page.) Its not too difficult to separate, smooth the wires, and get them into the right color order when youre working with two inches of the cable wires. But holding that order in your fingers right next to the plastic cable sheathing, clipping the wires down to a half inch and then inserting all of them all into the plug at the same time is very difficult for a first timer and takes a lot of practice (I assume). The problem is that the wires terminate at the end of the plug. You cant hold one wire in that position while you mess with other wires that are misbehaving; and they
[I know. It was pretty easy for 4 wires, haven't tried more.]
will misbehave. The pass-through plugs help solve this by letting the wires go in the back of the plug into their proper channel and then extend out through the front end of the plug. This way you dont have to clip the wires before inserting them. You can actually insert one wire at a time and when it passes through the front bend it so that it stays put while you insert the next wire in the order (a procedure that probably infuriates the purists). Once all the wires are inserted through in the right order the special pass-through crimper not only locks down the wires and sheathing, but also clips the excess wires in front of the plug. You just have to be careful when inserting the wires that you dont skip a hole and end up one or two wires with no home. Youll also want to twist the end of the loose wires together after their all in to get them through the crimping hole cleanly. Finally, remember to slip the plug cover on the cable before you start working
[shoudln't be "finally". Should be first.]
with the wire. You can find the pass-through crimpers here on Amazon by searching for them specifically. It will still be a tedious process but at least doable for a novice. Good luck. One person found this helpful Report abuse --
Here is one that is called pass-through. I don't know why it would be easier.
The crimper linked above is essentially what I use and it works well. It probably helps that I've done a crap ton of them. If I was asked to make a recommendation to someone who doesn't have much experience, I would very definitely recommend the pass-thru type of connector. They're quite a bit easier, especially for someone who's just getting started.
Someone else mentioned TIA 568B (vs 568A). If a diagram isn't handy, you can use the other end of the cable that you're working on. Put the two connectors side by side, not end to end, and just match the colors.
Oh, they're available four outdoor install. This one, for instance <at temu.com search for LY02238>
The POE (power-over-ethernet) type don't require house current directly (you'll need a switch or POE power injector in addition to ethernet interfaces).
And then one day, someone is doing the hoovering, or kicks a desk, or a pet gets round the back, and something stops working ... if you can retuerminate it with a new plug, sure but patch cables are cheap, stuff not working is frequently expensive ...
Most plugs are for 'solid' cable, to repair patch cables you need to get the type of plugs for 'stranded' cable, I think there is also a type of plug that copes with both ...
It just means you can stuff the wires one at a time into the connector and it won't pop out of place.
The T368A and T368B thing is for rolled or straight-thru cabling. I can tell this, by noting the reversal of 1,2 3,6 on the two connectors in the depiction.
1,2 to 1,2 Straight-thru (most all of my cables are like this)
3,6 to 3,6
1,2 to 3,6 Rolled cable (only one spare is like this, haven't used in some time)
3,6 to 1,2 (Could have blue boot on one end, red boot on other end of cable)
Any more info than that, you'll have to look up. A rolled cable might be used between a broadband modem and a router. Straight cables tend to be used from router to PC or switch to PC. Doing direct PC to PC, uses a rolled cable (only if both ends are limited to 10/100BT NICs). GbE equipment has MDI/MDIX which can deal with either straight or rolled cabling.
Why use wired when Wi-Fi cameras are available? Google "Wi-Fi outdoor camera". Add "Solar" for more. Battery replacement time depends on use. If you have one outside light nearby can provide power from it.
If both ends of a cable are 568A, or if both ends are 568B, it's a straight-through cable. If one end of a cable is 568A and the other end is 568B, it's a crossover cable, what you call rolled, below.
Crossover cables are very rarely needed these days. All of mine are long gone. What's important is to pick a wiring standard and stick with it. I use 568B, but that's just personal preference and momentum.
I suppose it could be annoying if a connection comes loose, but it's not like it causes any damage. Just push the plug in and carry on, right? I get your point, though. One of these years I'll probably replace my barbless cables (or more likely just snip the connector and crimp a new one). They're not causing any problems, though, so it could be a while.
I thought (especially for crossover cable) that it was especially pertinent to male connectors.
Yes, I know. What I didn't know was that a crossover cable is one that is connected 568A at one end and 568B at the other. I was asking whether (and if so, how) I could tell whether the connections were
568A or 568B. I basically wanted to know that so I could tell whether an old cable I might have lying around is a crossover cable.
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