hi group, i'm working on a Vizio 39 Tesla model..E470va, so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages from the power s upply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue twice then tur ns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5K00901 TQA PT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have back lights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... any help on t his problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
h, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, with t he back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue twice then t urns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5K00901 T QAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have ba cklights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
The blue LED on the inverter board will light and extinguish if the inverte rs are normal.
You could have a bad TCON, a bad display, or still have a bad main. There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *any* suppl ier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional is a fair bet , but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it did also h ave a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return policies and lo ng warranties.
The way I approach a no-picture issue (with normal backlights) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to the TCO N. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they're there, the m ain is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs menu butto n and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. If only DC appear s on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
If the differential signals are there, try removing either of the two ribbo n connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get half a p ix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
There is a 12V fuse near the power harness you can check, but if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although there could also b e a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small round inductors that identify the handful of buck converters that normally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24V dependin g on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disconnected, you h ave a bad TCON.
nch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages from the pow er supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
ters are normal.
e are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *any* sup plier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV wit h a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional is a fair b et, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just recyclers wh o sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return policies and long warranties.
e the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to the T CON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs menu but ton and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. If only DC appe ars on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
bon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still no pic? Pr ob bad TCON.
n, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small round inducto rs that identify the handful of buck converters that normally populate TCON s. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24V depend ing on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disconnected, you have a bad TCON.
thanks for the info.. the fuse tested good.. I hooked up a scope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button pressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with the ribbons r emoved no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages from the p ower supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, wi th the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue twice th en turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5K009
01 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do hav e backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... any hel p on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
erters are normal.
ere are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *any* s upplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV w ith a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it did al so have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return policies an d long warranties.
ope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they're there, t he main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs menu b utton and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. If only DC ap pears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
ibbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get hal f a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
pen, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although there could al so be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various point s on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small round induc tors that identify the handful of buck converters that normally populate TC ONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24V depe nding on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disconnected, y ou have a bad TCON.
on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button pressed o n some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupling, if the tc on board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
I should have asked if you checked for 12V on the TCON fuse.
With the scope on AC coupling, set it for 50mv with a 10X probe and maybe .
5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The signals are digi tal data and not on every pin. What I've found over the years is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu activation (which guara ntees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off colors, pixelizat ion, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly impossible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scoping the signals. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON but no pictur e, the main is good.
So if you have 12V on the TCON fuse, it sounds like you have a bad TCON. P ull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer capacitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably brown in color. T he ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a parallel arran gement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paralleled by sever al and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap out can take som e time.
I can check Monday to see if I have a verified good TCON in the shop.
47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5K0
0901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do h ave backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... any h elp on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
nverters are normal.
There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional is a fa ir bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just recycler s who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return policies and long warranties.
scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to t he TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get ha lf a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get h alf a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various poi nts on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small round ind uctors that identify the handful of buck converters that normally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24V de pending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disconnected, you have a bad TCON.
, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button pressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with the ribbo ns removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
.5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The signals are di gital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the years is that an y data visible with a known good input source or menu activation (which gua rantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main is good. O f course, those that produce a picture with issues like off colors, pixeliz ation, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly impossible to te ll if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scoping the signal s. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON but no pict ure, the main is good.
Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer capacitors. Thes e are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably brown in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a parallel arr angement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in the circuit wi ll shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paralleled by sev eral and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap out can take s ome time.
if fb401 is a fuse, there is no voltage on either side. i didn't get a chan ce to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages from t he power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on , with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue twic e then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5 K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
inverters are normal.
There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *an y* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it di d also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just recycl ers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return policie s and long warranties.
o scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they're ther e, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs me nu button and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. If only D C appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
wo ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still no pi c? Prob bad TCON.
's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although there coul d also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various p oints on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small round i nductors that identify the handful of buck converters that normally populat e TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disconnecte d, you have a bad TCON.
h1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button press ed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupling, if th e tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with the rib bons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
be .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The signals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the years is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu activation (which g uarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off colors, pixel ization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly impossible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scoping the sign als. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON but no pi cture, the main is good.
. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer capacitors. Th ese are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably brown in color . The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a parallel a rrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paralleled by s everal and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap out can take some time.
ance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
FB nomenclature devices generally are ferrite beads, although they're shape d like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gray in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may not have volt age on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
I just ran your model number through Shop Jimmy to see what the board looks like, and it appears there are two different versions of that TV depending on the display installed. One version has the main board connected direct ly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FRC board whic h then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON.
If you have the smaller TCON, there is a white ceramic surface mount fuse m arked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC board whic h is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix.
If you have the larger TCON, there is a shield over it that covers most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board without the shie ld to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like the other o ne or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The larger wh ite ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on them.
s a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue tw ice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAP T5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... a ny help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
he inverters are normal.
n. There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from * any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just recy clers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return polic ies and long warranties.
to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they're th ere, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you ge t half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you g et half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although there co uld also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small round inductors that identify the handful of buck converters that normally popul ate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24 V depending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disconnec ted, you have a bad TCON.
ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button pre ssed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with the r ibbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
aybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The signals ar e digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the years is tha t any data visible with a known good input source or menu activation (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main is good . Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off colors, pix elization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly impossible t o tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scoping the si gnals. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON but no picture, the main is good.
ON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer capacitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably brown in col or. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a parallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in the circui t will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paralleled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap out can ta ke some time.
chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of repairs . i will post as soon as i can.
ped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gray in color , have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may not have vo ltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
ks like, and it appears there are two different versions of that TV dependi ng on the display installed. One version has the main board connected dire ctly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FRC board wh ich then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON.
marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC board wh ich is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix.
f the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board without the sh ield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN4402 under t he shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in these typ es of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on them.
t's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages fr om the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the t v on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQ APT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
the inverters are normal.
ain. There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board fro m a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional i s a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if i t did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just re cyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return pol icies and long warranties.
is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plu g to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TV s menu button and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. If on ly DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
he two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still n o pic? Prob bad TCON.
f it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at vario us points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small rou nd inductors that identify the handful of buck converters that normally pop ulate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to
24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disconn ected, you have a bad TCON.
5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button p ressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupling, i f the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The signals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the years is t hat any data visible with a known good input source or menu activation (whi ch guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main is go od. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off colors, p ixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly impossible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scoping the signals. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON but n o picture, the main is good.
TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer capacitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably brown in c olor. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a parall el arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in the circ uit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paralleled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap out can take some time.
p.
a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of repai rs. i will post as soon as i can.
haped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gray in col or, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may not have voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
ooks like, and it appears there are two different versions of that TV depen ding on the display installed. One version has the main board connected di rectly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FRC board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON.
se marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix.
of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board without the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like the oth er one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in these t ypes of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The large r white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on them.
You could upload to a free hosting site (like
formatting link
and post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I monitor): ohger
1s/at/aol/dot/com
I did find a complete board kit for an E420VA in stock (same TV, smaller sc reen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no shield.
If you have that version, I can walk you through it. If you have the large r TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, then you'll h ave to remove the shield on the TCON.
it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blu e twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv , I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights. .. any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
if the inverters are normal.
main. There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy fr om *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board f rom a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return p olicies and long warranties.
) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS p lug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they'r e there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
the two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if yo u get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If y ou get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although ther e could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at var ious points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small r ound inductors that identify the handful of buck converters that normally p opulate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 t o 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disco nnected, you have a bad TCON.
e 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button pressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with t he ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
nd maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The signal s are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the years is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu activation (w hich guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off colors, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly impossib le to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scoping th e signals. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON but no picture, the main is good.
d TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer capacitor s. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably brown in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a para llel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in the ci rcuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be parallele d by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap out ca n take some time.
hop.
t a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of rep airs. i will post as soon as i can.
shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gray in c olor, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may not hav e voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
looks like, and it appears there are two different versions of that TV dep ending on the display installed. One version has the main board connected directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FRC boar d which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON.
fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC boar d which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix.
st of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board without th e shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN4402 und er the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like the o ther one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The lar ger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on them.
t the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I monitor): ohg er1s/at/aol/dot/com
screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no shield.
ger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, then you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltage s from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn t he tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn b lue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called thi s TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlight s... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
h if the inverters are normal.
ad main. There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully function al is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are jus t recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return policies and long warranties.
ts) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they 're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push th e TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. I f only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
of the two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Sti ll no pic? Prob bad TCON.
ut if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although th ere could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at v arious points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small round inductors that identify the handful of buck converters that normally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons dis connected, you have a bad TCON.
ope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu butt on pressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac couplin g, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
and maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The sign als are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the years is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu activation (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main i s good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off color s, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly imposs ible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scoping the signals. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON b ut no picture, the main is good.
bad TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer capacit ors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably brown in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a pa rallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paralle led by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap out can take some time.
shop.
get a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of r epairs. i will post as soon as i can.
re shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gray in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may not h ave voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
rd looks like, and it appears there are two different versions of that TV d epending on the display installed. One version has the main board connecte d directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FRC bo ard which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON.
t fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC bo ard which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix.
most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board without the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN4402 u nder the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in the se types of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The l arger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on the m.
ost the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I monitor): o hger1s/at/aol/dot/com
r screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no shield .
arger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, then you' ll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
Not found by name.
Open the picture you posted, then cut/paste the URL of the actual picture.
, so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct volta ges from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called t his TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lc d tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlig hts... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
ish if the inverters are normal.
bad main. There are no new parts available for these, so any board you bu y from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a boa rd from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functi onal is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, eve n if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are j ust recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous retu rn policies and long warranties.
ghts) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LV DS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if th ey're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main .
r of the two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see i f you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. S till no pic? Prob bad TCON.
but if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for sma ll round inductors that identify the handful of buck converters that normal ly populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1 .2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons d isconnected, you have a bad TCON.
scope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu bu tton pressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupl ing, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and wi th the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
be and maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The si gnals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the year s is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu activatio n (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off col ors, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly impo ssible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scopin g the signals. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON but no picture, the main is good.
a bad TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer capac itors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably brow n in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a parallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in th e circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paral leled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap ou t can take some time.
he shop.
t get a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
y're shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gray in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may not have voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
oard looks like, and it appears there are two different versions of that TV depending on the display installed. One version has the main board connec ted directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FRC board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON.
unt fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix.
s most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board withou t the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like t he other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in t hese types of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on t hem.
post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I monitor): ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com
ler screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no shie ld.
larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, then yo u'll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
va, so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct vol tages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I tu rn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD tu rn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backl ights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan...
guish if the inverters are normal.
a bad main. There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a b oard from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully func tional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, e ven if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous re turn policies and long warranties.
lights) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to pus h the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differential output s. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad ma in.
her of the two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
k, but if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted althoug h there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for s mall round inductors that identify the handful of buck converters that norm ally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disconnected, you have a bad TCON.
a scope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button pressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac cou pling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
.
robe and maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The signals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the ye ars is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu activat ion (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the ma in is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off c olors, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly im possible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scop ing the signals. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TC ON but no picture, the main is good.
e a bad TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer cap acitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably br own in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a parallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be par alleled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap out can take some time.
the shop.
n't get a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
hey're shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gra y in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may n ot have voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
board looks like, and it appears there are two different versions of that TV depending on the display installed. One version has the main board conn ected directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FR C board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON.
mount fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FR C board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix.
ers most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board with out the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN44
02 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. T he larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on them.
nd post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I monitor) : ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com
aller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no sh ield.
he larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, then you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
re.
That's the bigger TCON with the FRC board built in.
That FB near the LVDS connector on the TCON should have 12V on both sides o f it when the TV is on. If the 12V is missing, unplug the LVDS and check t hat FB to ground for resistance. Should read no less than 10K ohms to grou nd. If the resistance on that FB is showing low ohms, the TCON has a shorte d component on it.
U4403 should have something like 1.2V on the tab. If it doesn't, check the input pin for 3.3. That series of tab regulator is a common problem on ma in boards,FRC boards, and TCONs.
U4402 and u4407 should have something like 3.3 on one, and 1.8 volts on the other (typical Vizio reg voltages) measured at the tabs.
If those voltages are missing, check voltages on CN4402. There should be 1
2V and 5V on that connector. If either/both are missing, check for shorts to ground as you did with the ferrite bead. If there are no shorts and no voltages, I'd suspect the main.
If the 12 and 5 volt inputs are there on the connector, and the 12 volts is on the ferrite bead, and you can view differential activity on the LVDS co nnector with a scope, and you can't get a half picture with either display ribbon removed, indications are very strong towards the TCON/FRC board.
70va, so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct v oltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also call ed this TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the bac klights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan.. .
inguish if the inverters are normal.
ve a bad main. There are no new parts available for these, so any board yo u buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully fu nctional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers a re just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return policies and long warranties.
cklights) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at th e LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but i f they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to p ush the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differential outp uts. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
ither of the two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and s ee if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the othe r. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display . Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
eck, but if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted altho ugh there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for D C at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small round inductors that identify the handful of buck converters that no rmally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary fr om 1.2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbo ns disconnected, you have a bad TCON.
p a scope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the men u button pressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac c oupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? an d with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
se.
probe and maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. Th e signals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the years is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu activ ation (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off colors, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly impossible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by sc oping the signals. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON but no picture, the main is good.
ave a bad TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer c apacitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably brown in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side i n a parallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator i n the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be p aralleled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted ca p out can take some time.
in the shop.
idn't get a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in nee d of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
they're shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be g ray in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may not have voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
he board looks like, and it appears there are two different versions of tha t TV depending on the display installed. One version has the main board co nnected directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FRC board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON.
e mount fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pi x.
overs most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board wi thout the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN
4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic li ke the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on them.
and post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I monito r): ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com
smaller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no shield.
the larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, the n you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
ture.
of it when the TV is on. If the 12V is missing, unplug the LVDS and check that FB to ground for resistance. Should read no less than 10K ohms to gr ound. If the resistance on that FB is showing low ohms, the TCON has a shor ted component on it.
he input pin for 3.3. That series of tab regulator is a common problem on main boards,FRC boards, and TCONs.
he other (typical Vizio reg voltages) measured at the tabs.
12V and 5V on that connector. If either/both are missing, check for short s to ground as you did with the ferrite bead. If there are no shorts and n o voltages, I'd suspect the main.
is on the ferrite bead, and you can view differential activity on the LVDS connector with a scope, and you can't get a half picture with either displa y ribbon removed, indications are very strong towards the TCON/FRC board.
wow, you are a genius, with tv on, no 12v on either side of fb, with lvds d isconnected, i got zero ohms, so it's a bad tcon board, that's shorted.. ?
E470va, so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOAR D turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also ca lled this TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this i s a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the b acklights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,Stan ...
xtinguish if the inverters are normal.
have a bad main. There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a pictur e, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generou s return policies and long warranties.
backlights) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differential ou tputs. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a ba d main.
either of the two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the ot her. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad displ ay. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
check, but if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted alt hough there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look f or small round inductors that identify the handful of buck converters that normally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output rib bons disconnected, you have a bad TCON.
up a scope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the m enu button pressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
fuse.
0X probe and maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The signals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over th e years is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu act ivation (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means th e main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like o ff colors, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearl y impossible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scoping the signals. But generally, if you have differential signals to th e TCON but no picture, the main is good.
have a bad TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer capacitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariabl y brown in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a parallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paralleled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap out can take some time.
N in the shop.
didn't get a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in n eed of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
gh they're shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gray in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or m ay not have voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
the board looks like, and it appears there are two different versions of t hat TV depending on the display installed. One version has the main board connected directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to a n FRC board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON.
ace mount fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have th e FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix.
covers most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board without the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses use d in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numericall y on them.
/) and post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I moni tor): ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com
, smaller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with n o shield.
ve the larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, t hen you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
icture.
es of it when the TV is on. If the 12V is missing, unplug the LVDS and che ck that FB to ground for resistance. Should read no less than 10K ohms to ground. If the resistance on that FB is showing low ohms, the TCON has a sh orted component on it.
the input pin for 3.3. That series of tab regulator is a common problem o n main boards,FRC boards, and TCONs.
the other (typical Vizio reg voltages) measured at the tabs.
be 12V and 5V on that connector. If either/both are missing, check for sho rts to ground as you did with the ferrite bead. If there are no shorts and no voltages, I'd suspect the main.
s is on the ferrite bead, and you can view differential activity on the LVD S connector with a scope, and you can't get a half picture with either disp lay ribbon removed, indications are very strong towards the TCON/FRC board.
with tv on, no 12v on either side of fb, with lvds disconnected, i got zero ohms, so it's a bad tcon board, that's shorted.. ?
With the LVDS harness disconnected, run the TV one more time and make sure you have 12V on the harness. Most of the time, a shorted TCON will cause t he 12V supply that feeds it to shut down, but there's a chance the 12V sour ce could have been damaged as well. If there's no 12V, check the main for an open surface mount fuse (these are generally white on Vizios with a lett er on them).
If you get 12V on the disconnected LVDS connector, then just a TCON should get you going. If you have the time, you can check for shorted chip caps. These are brown, about the size of that ferrite bead, and have no markings . One way is to feed a current regulated supply set to 2 amps right at tha t ferrite bead to force feed the TCON to see what gets hot. A frost coveri ng from a can of freeze spray will often give you a visual of what's drawin g the current (whatever thaws first).
..E470va, so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the corre ct voltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. whe n I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BO ARD turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks,St an...
extinguish if the inverters are normal.
l have a bad main. There are no new parts available for these, so any boar d you buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sel ls a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as full y functional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a pict ure, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board selle rs are just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer gener ous return policies and long warranties.
l backlights) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main a t the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, b ut if they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differential outputs. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
ng either of the two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON a nd see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad dis play. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
n check, but if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted a lthough there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check f or DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small round inductors that identify the handful of buck converters tha t normally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can var y from 1.2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output r ibbons disconnected, you have a bad TCON.
ed up a scope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button pressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl. ? and with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
N fuse.
10X probe and maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critical. The signals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the years is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu a ctivation (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off colors, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nea rly impossible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems b y scoping the signals. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON but no picture, the main is good.
ou have a bad TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi lay er capacitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invaria bly brown in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by si de in a parallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulat or in the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paralleled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorte d cap out can take some time.
CON in the shop.
i didn't get a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
ough they're shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gray in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may not have voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
at the board looks like, and it appears there are two different versions of that TV depending on the display installed. One version has the main boar d connected directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FRC board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCO N.
rface mount fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing n o pix.
at covers most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the boar d without the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connecto r CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be cerami c like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses u sed in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating curren t. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerica lly on them.
om/) and post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I mo nitor): ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com
TV, smaller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no shield.
have the larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, then you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
picture.
ides of it when the TV is on. If the 12V is missing, unplug the LVDS and c heck that FB to ground for resistance. Should read no less than 10K ohms t o ground. If the resistance on that FB is showing low ohms, the TCON has a shorted component on it.
ck the input pin for 3.3. That series of tab regulator is a common problem on main boards,FRC boards, and TCONs.
on the other (typical Vizio reg voltages) measured at the tabs.
d be 12V and 5V on that connector. If either/both are missing, check for s horts to ground as you did with the ferrite bead. If there are no shorts a nd no voltages, I'd suspect the main.
lts is on the ferrite bead, and you can view differential activity on the L VDS connector with a scope, and you can't get a half picture with either di splay ribbon removed, indications are very strong towards the TCON/FRC boar d.
ro ohms, so it's a bad tcon board, that's shorted.. ?
e you have 12V on the harness. Most of the time, a shorted TCON will cause the 12V supply that feeds it to shut down, but there's a chance the 12V so urce could have been damaged as well. If there's no 12V, check the main fo r an open surface mount fuse (these are generally white on Vizios with a le tter on them).
d get you going. If you have the time, you can check for shorted chip caps . These are brown, about the size of that ferrite bead, and have no markin gs. One way is to feed a current regulated supply set to 2 amps right at t hat ferrite bead to force feed the TCON to see what gets hot. A frost cove ring from a can of freeze spray will often give you a visual of what's draw ing the current (whatever thaws first).
if your talking about the harness connector cn702, I get 11.97v on green wi re, 11.98 v on the yellow wire. nothing on the red and orange wires. 5v on brown wire. and just for your info I got a little anxious and ordered the t con board arrive yesterday, got nothing no pic... the main board is recentl y purchased also from ebay .. I think i got both from electroparts..
el..E470va, so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the cor rect voltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. w hen I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTER BOARD turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or als o called this TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. th is is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from t he backlights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thanks, Stan...
nd extinguish if the inverters are normal.
ill have a bad main. There are no new parts available for these, so any bo ard you buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who s ells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fu lly functional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a pi cture, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sel lers are just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer gen erous return policies and long warranties.
mal backlights) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberish, but if they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpfu l to push the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differentia l outputs. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
ving either of the two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove th e other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad d isplay. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
can check, but if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has shorted although there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, lo ok for small round inductors that identify the handful of buck converters t hat normally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can v ary from 1.2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disconnected, you have a bad TCON.
oked up a scope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with t he menu button pressed on some pins and not data on others same results wit h ac coupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC sigan l.? and with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board..?
CON fuse.
a 10X probe and maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is critica l. The signals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found ove r the years is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu activation (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) mean s the main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues li ke off colors, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's n early impossible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those problems by scoping the signals. But generally, if you have differential signals t o the TCON but no picture, the main is good.
you have a bad TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi l ayer capacitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invar iably brown in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a parallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regul ator in the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap ma y be paralleled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shor ted cap out can take some time.
TCON in the shop.
e. i didn't get a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
though they're shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend t o be gray in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may not have voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
what the board looks like, and it appears there are two different versions of that TV depending on the display installed. One version has the main bo ard connected directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FRC board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different T CON.
surface mount fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also hav e the FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix.
that covers most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the bo ard without the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connec tor CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be cera mic like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating curr ent. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numeri cally on them.
.com/) and post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I monitor): ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com
e TV, smaller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON wi th no shield.
u have the larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC boar d, then you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
al picture.
sides of it when the TV is on. If the 12V is missing, unplug the LVDS and check that FB to ground for resistance. Should read no less than 10K ohms to ground. If the resistance on that FB is showing low ohms, the TCON has a shorted component on it.
heck the input pin for 3.3. That series of tab regulator is a common probl em on main boards,FRC boards, and TCONs.
s on the other (typical Vizio reg voltages) measured at the tabs.
uld be 12V and 5V on that connector. If either/both are missing, check for shorts to ground as you did with the ferrite bead. If there are no shorts and no voltages, I'd suspect the main.
volts is on the ferrite bead, and you can view differential activity on the LVDS connector with a scope, and you can't get a half picture with either display ribbon removed, indications are very strong towards the TCON/FRC bo ard.
zero ohms, so it's a bad tcon board, that's shorted.. ?
ure you have 12V on the harness. Most of the time, a shorted TCON will cau se the 12V supply that feeds it to shut down, but there's a chance the 12V source could have been damaged as well. If there's no 12V, check the main for an open surface mount fuse (these are generally white on Vizios with a letter on them).
uld get you going. If you have the time, you can check for shorted chip ca ps. These are brown, about the size of that ferrite bead, and have no mark ings. One way is to feed a current regulated supply set to 2 amps right at that ferrite bead to force feed the TCON to see what gets hot. A frost co vering from a can of freeze spray will often give you a visual of what's dr awing the current (whatever thaws first).
wire, 11.98 v on the yellow wire. nothing on the red and orange wires. 5v o n brown wire. and just for your info I got a little anxious and ordered the tcon board arrive yesterday, got nothing no pic... the main board is recen tly purchased also from ebay .. I think i got both from electroparts..
Did you try your original main board back in with the new TCON? You may ha ve added a problem where none existed before.
There are two 12V inputs going to that TCON/FRC board. The CN702 four wire connector (which will have 12V , 5V, and ground) and the larger LVDS harne ss CN4404 where the ferrite bead smd component is.
So on CN 702, you have the 12V and 5V, so that's OK.
On the ferrite bead near the LVDS, you should have 12v as well. I don't kn ow if they're sourced from the same 12V supply or not, but you should have
12V on that ferrite bead. Your earlier post said you did not have 12V on t hat ferrite bead and were reading a short to ground. Is this correct? If you unplug the LVDS harness, the short on the ferrite bead to the TCON grou nd will either go away or remain. If it goes away, the problem is on the m ain. If it stays, the short is on the TCON.
Be aware that fair percentage of boards bought on-line are defective regard less of where they're purchased. There are no new parts available for thes e, so any part you buy is from a recycled donor, and none of these mass par ts sellers check them. They strip the carcass of it's boards, sell them, a nd replace or refund the money if they get a complaint. If the donor TV fai led with the same defective board you have, you'll have the same issue.
This is why we go through several tests before estimating the job for the c ustomer, and why we repair about 95 percent of the boards we see.
There are several guys in our association that sell parts on ebay, but thes e guys are technicians who will only sell verified boards.
The good news is that Electroparts is a good company and they'll replace or refund without question.
odel..E470va, so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the c orrect voltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada.. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVERTE R BOARD turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or a lso called this TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard. this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Thank s,Stan...
and extinguish if the inverters are normal.
still have a bad main. There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board s ellers are just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer g enerous return policies and long warranties.
ormal backlights) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the ma in at the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibberis h, but if they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's help ful to push the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the different ial outputs. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still hav e a bad main.
moving either of the two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TC ON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remove the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
u can check, but if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has short ed although there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can che ck for DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked, look for small round inductors that identify the handful of buck converters that normally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the outp ut ribbons disconnected, you have a bad TCON.
hooked up a scope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button pressed on some pins and not data on others same results w ith ac coupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC sig anl.? and with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board.. ?
TCON fuse.
th a 10X probe and maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is criti cal. The signals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found o ver the years is that any data visible with a known good input source or me nu activation (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) me ans the main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issues like off colors, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly impossible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those proble ms by scoping the signals. But generally, if you have differential signals to the TCON but no picture, the main is good.
ke you have a bad TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted multi layer capacitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are inv ariably brown in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side b y side in a parallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck reg ulator in the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paralleled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending sh orted cap out can take some time.
od TCON in the shop.
ide. i didn't get a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck i s in need of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
although they're shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gray in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They ma y or may not have voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they ar e.
e what the board looks like, and it appears there are two different version s of that TV depending on the display installed. One version has the main board connected directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connecte d to an FRC board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON.
c surface mount fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also h ave the FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causi ng no pix.
t that covers most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board without the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from conn ector CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ce ramic like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fus es used in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating cu rrent. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed nume rically on them.
ur.com/) and post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I monitor): ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com
ame TV, smaller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no shield.
you have the larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC bo ard, then you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
tual picture.
th sides of it when the TV is on. If the 12V is missing, unplug the LVDS a nd check that FB to ground for resistance. Should read no less than 10K oh ms to ground. If the resistance on that FB is showing low ohms, the TCON ha s a shorted component on it.
check the input pin for 3.3. That series of tab regulator is a common pro blem on main boards,FRC boards, and TCONs.
lts on the other (typical Vizio reg voltages) measured at the tabs.
hould be 12V and 5V on that connector. If either/both are missing, check f or shorts to ground as you did with the ferrite bead. If there are no shor ts and no voltages, I'd suspect the main.
2 volts is on the ferrite bead, and you can view differential activity on t he LVDS connector with a scope, and you can't get a half picture with eithe r display ribbon removed, indications are very strong towards the TCON/FRC board.
t zero ohms, so it's a bad tcon board, that's shorted.. ?
sure you have 12V on the harness. Most of the time, a shorted TCON will c ause the 12V supply that feeds it to shut down, but there's a chance the 12 V source could have been damaged as well. If there's no 12V, check the mai n for an open surface mount fuse (these are generally white on Vizios with a letter on them).
hould get you going. If you have the time, you can check for shorted chip caps. These are brown, about the size of that ferrite bead, and have no ma rkings. One way is to feed a current regulated supply set to 2 amps right at that ferrite bead to force feed the TCON to see what gets hot. A frost covering from a can of freeze spray will often give you a visual of what's drawing the current (whatever thaws first).
n wire, 11.98 v on the yellow wire. nothing on the red and orange wires. 5v on brown wire. and just for your info I got a little anxious and ordered t he tcon board arrive yesterday, got nothing no pic... the main board is rec ently purchased also from ebay .. I think i got both from electroparts..
have added a problem where none existed before.
re connector (which will have 12V , 5V, and ground) and the larger LVDS har ness CN4404 where the ferrite bead smd component is.
know if they're sourced from the same 12V supply or not, but you should hav e 12V on that ferrite bead. Your earlier post said you did not have 12V on that ferrite bead and were reading a short to ground. Is this correct? I f you unplug the LVDS harness, the short on the ferrite bead to the TCON gr ound will either go away or remain. If it goes away, the problem is on the main. If it stays, the short is on the TCON.
rdless of where they're purchased. There are no new parts available for th ese, so any part you buy is from a recycled donor, and none of these mass p arts sellers check them. They strip the carcass of it's boards, sell them, and replace or refund the money if they get a complaint. If the donor TV f ailed with the same defective board you have, you'll have the same issue.
customer, and why we repair about 95 percent of the boards we see.
ese guys are technicians who will only sell verified boards.
or refund without question.
the short is still there, with the lvds cable removed. just bought the tcon board.? I now noticed that the backlights go off off after a minute or two , high voltage shut down..? I put the original main board back in, and got two 12v & 5v inputs to the tcon on cn702..
4, John-Del wrote:
4, Stu jax> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > hi group, i'm working on a Vizio 39 Tesla
model..E470va, so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get the correct voltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and nada .. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INVER TER BOARD turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboard . this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen fr om the backlights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. Tha nks,Stan...
ht and extinguish if the inverters are normal.
r still have a bad main. There are no new parts available for these, so an y board you buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller w ho sells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable a s fully functional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor had a picture, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet board sellers are just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they offer generous return policies and long warranties.
normal backlights) is to scope the differential signals coming out of the main at the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibber ish, but if they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's he lpful to push the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the differe ntial outputs. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still h ave a bad main.
removing either of the two ribbon connectors going to the display from the TCON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and remov e the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a b ad display. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
you can check, but if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has sho rted although there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can c heck for DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is marked , look for small round inductors that identify the handful of buck converte rs that normally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and c an vary from 1.2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the ou tput ribbons disconnected, you have a bad TCON.
I hooked up a scope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals wi th the menu button pressed on some pins and not data on others same results with ac coupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC s iganl.? and with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon board ..?
he TCON fuse.
with a 10X probe and maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is cri tical. The signals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've found over the years is that any data visible with a known good input source or menu activation (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen) means the main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with issue s like off colors, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it 's nearly impossible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those prob lems by scoping the signals. But generally, if you have differential signa ls to the TCON but no picture, the main is good.
like you have a bad TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted mul ti layer capacitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are i nvariably brown in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are side by side in a parallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck r egulator in the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted ca p may be paralleled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offending shorted cap out can take some time.
good TCON in the shop.
side. i didn't get a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my truck is in need of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
, although they're shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They te nd to be gray in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. They may or may not have voltage on them depending on where in the circuit they are.
see what the board looks like, and it appears there are two different versi ons of that TV depending on the display installed. One version has the mai n board connected directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connec ted to an FRC board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a differe nt TCON.
mic surface mount fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for cau sing no pix.
it that covers most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of th e board without the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from co nnector CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic f uses used in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed nu merically on them.
mgur.com/) and post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (whic h I monitor): ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com
(same TV, smaller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCO N with no shield.
f you have the larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, then you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
actual picture.
both sides of it when the TV is on. If the 12V is missing, unplug the LVDS and check that FB to ground for resistance. Should read no less than 10K ohms to ground. If the resistance on that FB is showing low ohms, the TCON has a shorted component on it.
t, check the input pin for 3.3. That series of tab regulator is a common p roblem on main boards,FRC boards, and TCONs.
volts on the other (typical Vizio reg voltages) measured at the tabs.
should be 12V and 5V on that connector. If either/both are missing, check for shorts to ground as you did with the ferrite bead. If there are no sh orts and no voltages, I'd suspect the main.
12 volts is on the ferrite bead, and you can view differential activity on the LVDS connector with a scope, and you can't get a half picture with eit her display ribbon removed, indications are very strong towards the TCON/FR C board.
got zero ohms, so it's a bad tcon board, that's shorted.. ?
ke sure you have 12V on the harness. Most of the time, a shorted TCON will cause the 12V supply that feeds it to shut down, but there's a chance the
12V source could have been damaged as well. If there's no 12V, check the m ain for an open surface mount fuse (these are generally white on Vizios wit h a letter on them).
should get you going. If you have the time, you can check for shorted chi p caps. These are brown, about the size of that ferrite bead, and have no markings. One way is to feed a current regulated supply set to 2 amps righ t at that ferrite bead to force feed the TCON to see what gets hot. A fros t covering from a can of freeze spray will often give you a visual of what' s drawing the current (whatever thaws first).
een wire, 11.98 v on the yellow wire. nothing on the red and orange wires.
5v on brown wire. and just for your info I got a little anxious and ordered the tcon board arrive yesterday, got nothing no pic... the main board is r ecently purchased also from ebay .. I think i got both from electroparts..
y have added a problem where none existed before.
wire connector (which will have 12V , 5V, and ground) and the larger LVDS h arness CN4404 where the ferrite bead smd component is.
t know if they're sourced from the same 12V supply or not, but you should h ave 12V on that ferrite bead. Your earlier post said you did not have 12V on that ferrite bead and were reading a short to ground. Is this correct? If you unplug the LVDS harness, the short on the ferrite bead to the TCON ground will either go away or remain. If it goes away, the problem is on t he main. If it stays, the short is on the TCON.
gardless of where they're purchased. There are no new parts available for these, so any part you buy is from a recycled donor, and none of these mass parts sellers check them. They strip the carcass of it's boards, sell the m, and replace or refund the money if they get a complaint. If the donor TV failed with the same defective board you have, you'll have the same issue.
he customer, and why we repair about 95 percent of the boards we see.
these guys are technicians who will only sell verified boards.
e or refund without question.
on board.?
You're confusing me. Are you saying that both the original TCON board and the one you just bought are showing a low ohm short to ground as read on th at ferrite bead near the LVDS cable?
tcon on cn702..
Again, see if there is any 12DC voltage on the LVDS connector when it is di sconnected from the TCON. IIRC, the CN702 connector goes to the power supp ly, not the main. Is there 12V on the LVDS connector when it is lifted off the TCON?
la model..E470va, so it's a 47 inch, I have no picture no audio, I do get t he correct voltages from the power supply, I changed the main board, and na da.. when I turn the tv on, with the back cover off, I see a led ON THE INV ERTER BOARD turn blue twice then turns off, I am suspecting the tcon board or also called this TQAPT5K00901 TQAPT 5k009 01 LCD PC Board Unit Motherboa rd. this is a lcd tv, I do have backlights, and a faint glow on the screen from the backlights... any help on this problem, will be taken seriously. T hanks,Stan...
ight and extinguish if the inverters are normal.
or still have a bad main. There are no new parts available for these, so any board you buy from *any* supplier is suspect. A legitimate ebay seller who sells a board from a TV with a cracked screen but otherwise verifiable as fully functional is a fair bet, but we still don't know if the donor ha d a picture, even if it did also have a cracked screen. Other internet boa rd sellers are just recyclers who sell boards without testing, but they off er generous return policies and long warranties.
th normal backlights) is to scope the differential signals coming out of th e main at the LVDS plug to the TCON. These are digital signals and are jibb erish, but if they're there, the main is usually good. While scoping, it's helpful to push the TVs menu button and watch for any activity on the diffe rential outputs. If only DC appears on the LVDS output connector, you still have a bad main.
y removing either of the two ribbon connectors going to the display from th e TCON and see if you get half a pix. If not, reconnect the ribbon and rem ove the other. If you get half a picture from either attempt, you've got a bad display. Still no pic? Prob bad TCON.
s you can check, but if it's open, usually a bad multi layer chip cap has s horted although there could also be a bad IC. If the fuse is good, you can check for DC at various points on the board if marked. If nothing is mark ed, look for small round inductors that identify the handful of buck conver ters that normally populate TCONs. There should be DC voltages on them and can vary from 1.2 to 24V depending on design. If any are missing with the output ribbons disconnected, you have a bad TCON.
. I hooked up a scope 5v ch1, on dc coupling I got dc differential signals with the menu button pressed on some pins and not data on others same resul ts with ac coupling, if the tcon board was good was i supposed to see an AC siganl.? and with the ribbons removed no pic on either side.. bad tcon boa rd..?
the TCON fuse.
v with a 10X probe and maybe .5ms for the horizontal - neither setting is c ritical. The signals are digital data and not on every pin. What I've fou nd over the years is that any data visible with a known good input source o r menu activation (which guarantees *something* should appear on the screen ) means the main is good. Of course, those that produce a picture with iss ues like off colors, pixelization, gamma errors etc. could be the main and it's nearly impossible to tell if the main or the TCON are causing those pr oblems by scoping the signals. But generally, if you have differential sig nals to the TCON but no picture, the main is good.
s like you have a bad TCON. Pull the shield off and look for any shorted m ulti layer capacitors. These are small SMD caps, have no markings, and are invariably brown in color. The ones most suspect are the ones that are si de by side in a parallel arrangement. If one of these caps short, the buck regulator in the circuit will shut down. The problem is that one shorted cap may be paralleled by several and up to a dozen, so picking the offendin g shorted cap out can take some time.
d good TCON in the shop.
er side. i didn't get a chance to further test/scope the tcon board, my tru ck is in need of repairs. i will post as soon as i can.
ds, although they're shaped like any other SMD resistor or capacitor. They tend to be gray in color, have no markings, and should read zero ohms. The y may or may not have voltage on them depending on where in the circuit the y are.
o see what the board looks like, and it appears there are two different ver sions of that TV depending on the display installed. One version has the m ain board connected directly to the TCON, the other has the main board conn ected to an FRC board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a diffe rent TCON.
ramic surface mount fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will al so have the FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for c ausing no pix.
er it that covers most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board without the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might b e ceramic like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicatin g current. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on them.
/imgur.com/) and post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (wh ich I monitor): ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com
k (same TV, smaller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller T CON with no shield.
If you have the larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FR C board, then you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON.
e actual picture.
n both sides of it when the TV is on. If the 12V is missing, unplug the LV DS and check that FB to ground for resistance. Should read no less than 10 K ohms to ground. If the resistance on that FB is showing low ohms, the TCO N has a shorted component on it.
n't, check the input pin for 3.3. That series of tab regulator is a common problem on main boards,FRC boards, and TCONs.
8 volts on the other (typical Vizio reg voltages) measured at the tabs.
re should be 12V and 5V on that connector. If either/both are missing, che ck for shorts to ground as you did with the ferrite bead. If there are no shorts and no voltages, I'd suspect the main.
he 12 volts is on the ferrite bead, and you can view differential activity on the LVDS connector with a scope, and you can't get a half picture with e ither display ribbon removed, indications are very strong towards the TCON/ FRC board.
i got zero ohms, so it's a bad tcon board, that's shorted.. ?
make sure you have 12V on the harness. Most of the time, a shorted TCON wi ll cause the 12V supply that feeds it to shut down, but there's a chance th e 12V source could have been damaged as well. If there's no 12V, check the main for an open surface mount fuse (these are generally white on Vizios w ith a letter on them).
ON should get you going. If you have the time, you can check for shorted c hip caps. These are brown, about the size of that ferrite bead, and have n o markings. One way is to feed a current regulated supply set to 2 amps ri ght at that ferrite bead to force feed the TCON to see what gets hot. A fr ost covering from a can of freeze spray will often give you a visual of wha t's drawing the current (whatever thaws first).
green wire, 11.98 v on the yellow wire. nothing on the red and orange wires . 5v on brown wire. and just for your info I got a little anxious and order ed the tcon board arrive yesterday, got nothing no pic... the main board is recently purchased also from ebay .. I think i got both from electroparts. .
may have added a problem where none existed before.
r wire connector (which will have 12V , 5V, and ground) and the larger LVDS harness CN4404 where the ferrite bead smd component is.
n't know if they're sourced from the same 12V supply or not, but you should have 12V on that ferrite bead. Your earlier post said you did not have 12 V on that ferrite bead and were reading a short to ground. Is this correct ? If you unplug the LVDS harness, the short on the ferrite bead to the TCO N ground will either go away or remain. If it goes away, the problem is on the main. If it stays, the short is on the TCON.
regardless of where they're purchased. There are no new parts available fo r these, so any part you buy is from a recycled donor, and none of these ma ss parts sellers check them. They strip the carcass of it's boards, sell t hem, and replace or refund the money if they get a complaint. If the donor TV failed with the same defective board you have, you'll have the same issu e.
the customer, and why we repair about 95 percent of the boards we see.
t these guys are technicians who will only sell verified boards.
ace or refund without question.
tcon board.?
d the one you just bought are showing a low ohm short to ground as read on that ferrite bead near the LVDS cable?
e tcon on cn702..
disconnected from the TCON. IIRC, the CN702 connector goes to the power su pply, not the main. Is there 12V on the LVDS connector when it is lifted o ff the TCON?
yes, both the original TCON boards fb are shorted. no 12v when lvds is disc onnected.
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