Curved Samsung no pic

On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 3:59:00 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com w rote:

TV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS b oard on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're su pposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. Wi th the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad mai n, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lig hts don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the L ED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 12:02:55 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote :

zaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 39

5v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

ith the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main , but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back light s don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, n o backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more l ike 106v down to 90v..

On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 5:39:46 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wr ote:

te:

fxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they'r e supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read

395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should tur n on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad ma in, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lig hts don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the L ED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic o n the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..

Disconnect the LEDs from the power supply and leave the main disconnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the d isplay "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanke t between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get w hacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...

If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply.

rote:

0dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing th e PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they 're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps rea d 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

y. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when A C is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should t urn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back l ights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

y, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, mo re like 106v down to 90v..

, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanke t between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get w hacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...

, replace the supply.

yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS.. Thanks for your help..

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 1:09:20 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrot e:

e:

650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says th ey're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps r ead 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

ply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a ba d main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near t he LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

ply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also errat ic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..

ed, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and short ed to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of th e display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physicall y float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it fro m cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blan ket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do , there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connection s of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power boa rd off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...

in, replace the supply.

s for your help..

I think I have a KU power supply in stock. Let me free run it and check th ose voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on cert ain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

ote:

ote:

ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testin g the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

upply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run wh en AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights shou ld turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the ba ck lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

upply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also err atic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said , more like 106v down to 90v..

cted, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and sho rted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physica lly float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it f rom cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy bl anket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connecti ons of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to g et whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power b oard off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again. ..

main, replace the supply.

nks for your help..

hose voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on cer tain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

OK,..

55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when test ing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend say s they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter ca ps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights sh ould turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics ne ar the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also e rratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you sa id, more like 106v down to 90v..

nected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and s horted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside o f the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physi cally float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if the y do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connec tions of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it agai n...

e main, replace the supply.

hanks for your help..

those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on c ertain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

The KU board I have puts over 300 V on the electros near the LED connector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely bad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair.

rote:

e:

un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when te sting the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend s ays they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,

er supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-ru n when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likel y a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If th e back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

er supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..

onnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and phy sically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heav y blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if t hey do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground conn ections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the pow er board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it ag ain...

the main, replace the supply.

Thanks for your help..

ck those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

r with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely bad . I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair.

is the ps board you have compatible with my tv.???

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 10:18:37 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wro te:

d the main, replace the supply.

.. Thanks for your help..

heck those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

tor with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're n ot getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely b ad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different powe r up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair .

Not sure, there are several screen sizes and LED arrangements that differ b etween models for the KU series. Some of the KUs have a plug in wire harne ss for the LEDs and others plug directly into the display with an edge conn ector. There is a "version" number on the model number label, usually four characters. Get that version number and I'll check.

rote:

and the main, replace the supply.

PS.. Thanks for your help..

check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird thing s on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

ector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely bad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different po wer up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my cha ir.

between models for the KU series. Some of the KUs have a plug in wire harn ess for the LEDs and others plug directly into the display with an edge con nector. There is a "version" number on the model number label, usually four characters. Get that version number and I'll check. OK, the version number is.. : FAO1...

e:

s and the main, replace the supply.

e PS.. Thanks for your help..

nd check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird thi ngs on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

nnector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you' re not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most like ly bad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my c hair.

er between models for the KU series. Some of the KUs have a plug in wire ha rness for the LEDs and others plug directly into the display with an edge c onnector. There is a "version" number on the model number label, usually fo ur characters. Get that version number and I'll check.

Samsung un55ku650dfxza

ote:

EDs and the main, replace the supply.

the PS.. Thanks for your help..

and check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird t hings on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

connector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If yo u're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most li kely bad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly differen t power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair.

ffer between models for the KU series. Some of the KUs have a plug in wire harness for the LEDs and others plug directly into the display with an edge connector. There is a "version" number on the model number label, usually four characters. Get that version number and I'll check.

Sorry for the delay. I have the supply for a UN65KU7000. It's drives a dif ferent LED array and would have to be rewired to work. This place has them . They also have both boards for a few bucks more.

They are also good about tak ing returns.