troubleshooting a non-functional Smirnoff lightning lamp (2023 Update)

I would start over with an entirely new power-supply, if you are so-inclined. You will get better reliability, at least, than dealing with 20-30 year old components.

...of dozens of possibilities.

If your flyback is good, you may only need to "fix" the driver section.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

That was my thought (new flyback supply) if I couldn't get the current one working. The flyback is a smaller one and reminds me of the kind used in portable TV's of the past. I may try taking readings of the HV in the borrowed unit as I have a HV probe, but from experience this may or may not be successful depending on how much the probe loads the circuit.

I'm going to have to take resistance readings of the flyback in the borrowed unit and then compare them with mine.

... this group exists to teach people the hard way of doing things - rather than the correct, effective or efficient way.

Anon.

a) Verify the flyback as correct. This can be done cold with simple resistance readings. b) Verify the power-transformer. This can also be done cold with simple resistance readings. c) Build a new power-supply - looks like about US$10 worth, including the heat-sink. Less transformers, of course, if needed. d) Even both transformers should be able to be had for less than US$20.

If you start screwing around with the borrowed unit, you may have two dead devices on your hands. By your own admission, you are not a highly experienced expert in these things, so I am suggesting you err on the side of caution.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Good points, thanks. Once upon a time, I had a nice Tek scope, but that was over 20 years ago. Resistance readings will have to do.

The good news is that I have all the flyback parts in drawers, including small flybacks, in the event I decide to build a new flyback supply.

By the way, one thing I don't like seeing is no power transformer. I believe this was line powered. Ouch!

Line-powered to the flyback - which isolates as well.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ok, today, I have my hands on the borrowed unit. The kind soul who loaned it said to be prepared to shell out $50 if I end up "breaking it". Since they seem to go for well over that online, this isn't an end all, but I still want to be as careful as possible.

I think I'm going to start with my broken one by taking pictures of the components side and then the board side. I may try superimposing them together in Photoshop. It might make not only troubleshooting easier, but I *may* be able to draw a schematic later. Also, I shouldn't have to disassemble his at all, just readings from the underside once I know what is what.

At some point, I will post these images on imgur.

So far, you are following a good path!

Best of luck with it!

How do you get registered on this site. Registration page is screwed up!

Al - snipped-for-privacy@cox.net

I do not want to say anything here that would warrant any doubts. There are a few ways to convert voltage on the lamp. Therefore, I would check on line for a service manual on the lamp based upon the model number of the lamp and the date of manufacture.

Most lamps I diagnose are alternating current (AC) type lamps and they are polarized. These lamps I repair typical have sockets that are compatible with incandescent (standard light bulb in a house), energy saving bulbs, or led based lamps. I say this because you may have a voltage convertor lamp with special properties (hence the driver transistors you indicated). Also, I usually look at the lamp unit when it is out of service, disconnected from any power source or plug, and run a continuity check (one end to the other) of each wire on each end at a time to find any breaks in the physical wiring and/or connections with the DMM (digital multi-meter) or DVM (digital volt meter). By having the lamp out of circuit and checking continuity, I can also safely check for "opens" or "shorts" in the lamp wiring. In same cases, lamps can have 2 or three modes (on, dim, medium bright, and/or bright- depending on what type and what wattage of bulb used). As a caution, never use a bulb that exceeds the rating of a lamp- (example- never use a 100 watt bulb for a socket rated at only 40 watts due to excessive heat which can be a fire hazard or start a fire).

Be careful when you do voltage checks when lamp is in circuit. Remember, with switches in off position, only half the circuit works (for the off reads zero [0] volts)- prior to that point on lamps with AC is about 120 Volts AC (this is with polarized AC as well and for devices with electrical ground). All of that stuff follows a color coding system for safety. Note, you can have specialty DC (direct current) lamps or battery powered flashlights, lanterns, etc... however, DC powered table lamps and upright lanterns are extremely rare. Prior to all of that was standard kerosene and gas powered light or gaslight.

Any questions, please feel free to ask. I am answering the basics for safety reasons. If you are not sure, either get more information, or have a professional do the work.

Hope the information here helps. Good Luck.

Sincerely,

Charles Lucas

...

You are replying to a post from 2020.

I Read the date on this (original post). It was reposted this week. Since lamps and lighting, bulbs, and styles, and types of lighting change, I thought I would update everyone (especially since most consumers do not know those things). The information is merely intended to be of use to anyone who can use it or find it of value.

Thank you for pointing that out. Point well taken. That was "pre covid - by the way.

Except, it was not "reposted" this week.

You might have seen it appearing in some way as "new" or "reposted", but that is because you are using the absolute worst interface for reading/accessing Usenet, the awful google groups interface.

Resurrecting a multi-year old post simply makes you look foolish, and this 'ressurection of old posts' only occurs with google groups users.

Evidently, I got fooled here (and it seems to have occurred many times). Sorry about my limitations do to what I use- beyond my control here.

People still need to know it whether it was 2-3 years ago from the original post or today. The same basic principles still apply. Someone may actually benefit from what was said. So, for the reasons of safety and posting basic principles (even if it being rehashed), this is a risk I will gladly take so that others benefit.

Sincerely,

Charles Lucas

There are millions of ancient posts out there, that did not get an answer at the time, or not a good one.

The problem is, that you are using the Google Groups interface to access Usenet, instead of a proper Usenet client. And what Google offers you to see is distorted, incorrect. You did not notice the date, for instance.

You are, in fact, accessing this:

Not Google Groups. There is an ancient culture here.

It happens that someone, named "Al Harper", posted a nonsensical question on this thread, on Feb 12. This causes the entire thread to display on top of the Google Groups interface. This made you assume that the Original Post was recent. It was not, it is ancient and forgotten.

And this mistake happens often to people using Google Groups, so much that many Usenet users filter out, delete, any post coming through Google Groups, as noise.

For nntp users, the Google Groups link is: