Soldering Surface mount capacitor with Radio Shack Soldering iron?

Yes, but you'll need a half decent iron with a reasonably fine tip.

Gun? No, a soldering gun is not remotely suitable for soldering most circuit boards, least of all surface mount components.

A needle is very unlikely to work either, as they are usually steel and don't tin when soldered. Buy a soldering iron for which you can get various tips. If you don't want to splash out on something expensive, I'd recommend the entry level Antex mains iron, here's the UK site:

Even better is a temperature controlled iron or soldering station, but that won't be cost effective unless you plan on doing a lot of soldering. I have an old Weller TCP and Antex 660 TC stations and both are great. Neither are what I'd call cheap though.

Dave

Unless he's talking about this kind of gun:

It's not best for SMD's, but it's ok for general pcb work.

Rat Shack also has some 15,20,25 watt irons that should work ok with Chip Quik. A quick search for "iron" at radioshack.com yields 6 pages of related goodies. The OP can file down an inexpensive tip to as small a point as desired, which should last long enough for a few SMD caps.

I use an older Weller WTCPS station for most of my work. I've heard their later models aren't terribly reliable, but these older ones sure seem to be. Maybe the OP could score a used one cheap off ebay.

Fascinating, I've never seen one of those before. I'm not sure what ergonomic benefits that design could offer.

Dave

Perhaps only for those used to handling this sort of shape? ;-)

LOL! In moments of confusion it could lead to some rather unfortunate scenarios!

Dave

I have done all kinds of repair and assembly work with one of these:

(15 W grounded pencil-type iron #64-2051)

The tip is fine for all but the tiny, tiny parts (0402 and smaller). The only problem is that the working distance makes it more like jousting than surgery. Just lay off the coffee. You also have to buy tips pretty frequently because they're not durable at all. But the price is right. It's not necessary, but if you're good with a file, you can put any shape you like on the tip.

You might also want to get the 25W model for the larger stuff because the 15W can't handle things like connectors or big groundplanes.

I have a moderately expensive Weller at work with a fancy temperature control and a stylish cushioned handle, and I can't honestly say it's any easier to work with or produces any better results. I wouldn't bother spending the extra dough.

If you do a lot of soldering, I defniitely would recommend paying around $200-$300 for a Pace or Metcal iron when you have some extra cash saved up; the working distance makes these irons a joy to use.

File it down.

It will not last long afterward. The flux will eat up the bare copper.

greg

Yes you can . Clean up your tip real well then take a piece of fine stiff copper wire something like the old telephone wire . Wrap it tightly 5 or more times around your tip so it stays on then bend out a short piece at the tip end long enough to solder with the end of the fine wire . Tin the wire onto the tip andthe end of the wire . This will get you by for a few quick SM jobs . After you are done just pull the wire off your gun .

I have done this in a pinch with a big Weller 140 watt gun .

Flux will not eat up the bare copper. Atleast not flux for electronic circuits.

The copper on the tip mixes with the solder and is removed from the tip and deposited on the circuit board.

It may be possiable to wrap some # 12 or # 14 solid wire around the tip, extend one side out and use that to heat the SMD

Blieve me, if the tip is not plated, it will not last long. I,ve been soldering for about 45 years.

greg

and

Greg, I did not say the tip would not last long if it was not plated.

Reread and notice that you said the FLUX would eat the copper. Flux (designed for electronics) will NOT EAT copper. The copper dissapears because it mixes to a small ammount with the tin/lead when the solder melts. It becomes an aloy of coper/lead/tin. That aloy is then pulled off the tip of the iron and becomes part of the components that are soldered.

I have also replaced my share of the plane copper tips in the 40 some years I have been soldering.

Most any mom and pop electronics store stocks soldering iron (as opposed to a soldering gun) tips in a wider variety of sizes for under two dollars, but remember, a smaller tip takes longer to heat up the trace/lead due to decreased surface area.