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Sherwood RD6106 tuner amp, prob 2000 year

I though that hygroscopic brown glue stuff went out in the 70s. Used to secure 12.288M crystal for the digital interface processor was around and a pin and had rusted through at the epoxy bond. Plenty of opportunity for liquid to pass through top vents but no sign of liquid anywhere so presumably this duff glue stuff again. Luckily easily replaced. Unfortunately looks as thogh it was used as flip-chip temporary bonding before soldering, hopefully away from anything rustable there.

Does anyone have a sure-fire way of dealing with delatching those white nylon board spacer+pcb holders? Sometimes a banana plug/ wander plug cover works, sometimes a small nut driver. So often in too awkward a place to get pliers in at board level. One of these on this amp I ended up cutting one of the pair of tangs off, to free the board. Perhaps a range of metal cylinders with dowel handles, various bore sizes.

Reply to
N_Cook
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If you have a pair of crappy needlenose pliers you don't love anymore you can try to bend the tips inwards a bit. Those spacer things still suck, especially when they're old and brittle and just break off.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

Head down to the hobby store and get a selection of small diameter brass tubing.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeffrey Angus

and a

cover

get

one of

cylinders

Needlenose slide off unless coming in sideways (rarely applicable). I will try one of those double flat type that I've no idea what their intended purpose is. Grind a pair of cylindrical internal surfaces , to locate over the nylon tangs, and then a bit of serious heating and that inward bending of the tips to overcome the angles of the tangs

Reply to
N_Cook

You'd think they'd use mineral bulking agent like French chalk , not corn starch, or whatever is hygroscopic, in that glue that starts light tan colour and goes browner and browner with age

Reply to
N_Cook

I have several pairs of hemostats, curved and straight, which serve me well in situations like this.

Mark Z.

Reply to
Mark Zacharias

and

cover

one

well

I just tried some forceps, ok the serrations don't slide on the nylon but they also bottom out against the angle of the nylon , necessitating bending the tips inward to work. I dug out the pair of (i thought) flat ended pliers to convert but only one side is flat the other is convex along its length, I've even less idea what those are for. Box-jawed so someone had a respecable use for them. I will have to find some grotty long nose ones and grind back the ends , then concave and bend probably grind undercuts if the jaws open enough/ come apart, rather than heat and bend

Reply to
N_Cook

Worked a treat with the Sherwood and all the nylon standoffs I had laying around. Starting with an old pair of 2 inch long arm needle nose pliers. Grind off the tips to give about 3mm wide. Dremmel and cutoff grinding disc cut a V slot in each face to about 5mm up the arms, then hollow grind progressively deeper for the next 10mm or so each side, not much just enough so the tops of the standoffs don't bottom out on the faces. Now to make a tool for cutting silicone sleeving into spiral wrap, first attempt failed

Reply to
N_Cook

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