s tinned copper wire have any relevance to your discus sion about
ssion with Arie is peripheral to the pointed wire mat erial. That material is factory-plated with a very tin tin coating. He and I are generally in agreement for electronics work, but in this case, we are dealing wit h practicalities and materials that are not specific t o his concerns. "Tinning" in your context means using a small amount of solder at the ends of the wire to pr event loose strands. Then, crimp the wire around the s crew before tightening - hard. 37/63 solder (eutectic) has no plastic state, so you do not have to be concer ned about crumbling solder if the wires move during th e cooling period.
er time, including one 16-lamp (candelabra-base) cryst al chandelier in our present house. That took nearly 1
2 hours of work to get just right - and including colo r-coding and removing many of the crystals for safe-ke eping. I learned the ball-chain trick from a restorer back in the 1980s when he showed me how he did it. Did you know that one can still get the 'fake candle-wax' socket covers? and in multiple styles?ieck
The solder I have is Ers in, multicore, 60/40 which is at least 15 years old. Is not using solder better than using the wrong solde r?
Afterthought: I just found this discussion: htt ps://
At this rate, I'll never get this lamp fixed! LOL
Thanks for your reply.