Resistance variation with thickness

Are you saying that the part of the coil which failed is a separate wire from the actual voice coil or in some way 'free floating'? In most speakers - of the single rear suspension type, the v/c is wound on the former with the ends coming up the cone on the inside then soldered to the pigtails where they pass through the cone. The tails of the v/c and soldered joints are glued to the cone inside and the pigtails glued on the outside. All this is usually covered on the inside by the dust dome. There should be little fatigue of the v/c wire anywhere as it should be secured to the v/c former or cone. The pigtails and often silvered and do fail either through gross overexcursion or fatigue leading to overheating. I`ve seen pigtails melted where the voice coil is intact.

You can sometimes rescue a speaker from this condition with some new pigtails and a dust dome. At one time you could buy pigtail wire from Goodmans, you probably still can from Wembley Loudspeakers if you ask nicely.

A speaker which has been seriously overdriven often shows no voice coil damage other than an obvious open circuit in the 'straight' part of the v/c winding. Chances are, your customer was pushing the amps well into clipping and simply overcooked the voicecoils which melted at the weakest point.

Wembley Loudspeakers will repair the drivers at a reasonable cost no doubt.

Ron

Reply to
Ron Johnson
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was

silver v

wire

doubt.

This is a high power horn so tinsel ribbon instead of pigtails. Instead of the voice coil of round wire going from one tinsel to the other there are short runs of flattened wire. Unnecessary here , assuming it is to save overlap, so fouling the gap in the magnet, because the magnet is milled out on both sites of the lead-in and lead out tinsels. In pics of earlier post. If the wire had not been flattened it would not have failed, at least as how it was being used, is what I am suggesting.

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Reply to
N_Cook

Why would they use silver? It is very soft, and malleable. More than likely it is aluminum, or bright tin plated copper.

If the piece cracked, it could have arced and heated. That can spread and damage the surface.

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Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

It`s more likely to fail on the straight, horn drivers usually do, either because it`s that part of the winding isnt in the magnetic gap or there`s nothing close by to help sink the heat away - Eitherway it almost certainly failed due to being overdriven, maybe a burst of loud feedback or the internal amp being driven into clipping.

Are you sure that the v/c is round wire with only the leadouts being flattened? Most half decent speakers these days are wound with flat wire anyway.

Of course, being Mackie, anything could happen!

Ron

Reply to
Ron Johnson

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