RCA model HD52W67 Flyback transformer help

A suggestion is to borrow or buy a Bob Parker design LOPT/Flyback tester. Great tool if you work on tube monitors...(we sell those as a kit assembled by Alltronics).

Or you can cheat with an audio signal generator and a scope by setting the generator to 15,500ish cycles at 1V and see what the scope shows on other outputs from the flyback (you need to remove it from the TV first). Should show comparable although weaker signals on most lines if you get them hooked up correctly.

John :-#)#

A scope would be the best thing. And pull the HV lead out of the flyback.

There are caps in the power supply that go bad and cause the B+ to get too high. And ESR meter should reveal which ones, I don't remember anymore.

Also, on the sweep board look for bad connections to a 1 nF cap across the horizontal output transistor BEFORE to try to fire it back up. If the conne ctions are bad the HV goes up too fast and will crack the neck off one of t he CRTs.

There is also a fusible on the signal board that nuisance blows and causes about that symptom, you'll have to look up on the net to find it. It has be en many years since I worked on TVs. There was a time I could tell you righ t where this shit is but not no mo.

Anyway, the main cap, the 1 nF to watch is very close to the horizontal out put. Just resolder that before even plugging the thing in again. The lytic in the power supply may well be bulging, that causes the 130 volts to go hi gh.

If that is an ITC222 which I think likely it tries to start three times and if it can't get into regulation the it gives up. One possibility you don't want to hear about it that one of the tubes is already cracked and it is s hutting down due to overcurrent.

Most of the flybacks for those have removable HV connectors. Take some side cutters and press in on the tabs exposed by the slots after removing the i nsulation boot. If the boot is not removable then you have to go to the oth er end.

Either way is a PITA because none of these connectors are made to be remove d. You WILL need hot glue to put them back in the event all these component s are good. However you can flip the sweep board up and check the connectio ns without pulling the HV wire. You can also look for bulging caps without pulling that wire.

As far as the flyback, if Asti Magnetics is still around they probably got some stock left of these transformers. (also the HV splitters go bad, they might have them) Too many people have had trouble with eBay parts so that m ight not be the best idea.

Hope you don't have a cracked tube. If you do and can find one somewhere I can walk you through the alignment procedure. Actually it is pretty cool bu t you do need the original remote to do it. Physically screwing the tube in is easy but if you don't do the procedure right it takes like days, instea d of the twenty minutes I used to do it in. there are also two types of tub es, one type has higher gain. When you mix them you might have to do a slig ht modification to that CRT board. But even if you do need one, they should not be that expensive anymore. It just gets labor intensive.

Hmmm, why would a HD52W67, which seems to be a 52" 1080p HD LCD Television need to have a flyback transformer?

-bruce snipped-for-privacy@ripco.com

There is that. This is a rear-projection Television.

What about the lamp(s)? If they are out, would it start?

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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Why do you think it's an LCD PTV? I used to work on tons of RCAs and am pr etty sure it's a CRT based ITC series chassis.

To the OP: why waste your time on this POS? You can find tons of running CRT based projectors on Craigs for the cost of schlepping them away. Older RCA PTK195s are a good choice (although not HD), or any Hitachi or Toshiba from the early 2Ks. Avoid any Sony projector of any type.

Well... they do, in fact have flybacks. And there is quite the You-Tube guides to repairing them. Here is one:

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

o high. And ESR meter should reveal which ones, I don't remember anymore.

e horizontal output transistor BEFORE to try to fire it back up. If the con nections are bad the HV goes up too fast and will crack the neck off one of the CRTs.

s about that symptom, you'll have to look up on the net to find it. It has been many years since I worked on TVs. There was a time I could tell you ri ght where this shit is but not no mo.

utput. Just resolder that before even plugging the thing in again. The lyti c in the power supply may well be bulging, that causes the 130 volts to go high.

nd if it can't get into regulation the it gives up. One possibility you don 't want to hear about it that one of the tubes is already cracked and it is shutting down due to overcurrent.

de cutters and press in on the tabs exposed by the slots after removing the insulation boot. If the boot is not removable then you have to go to the o ther end.

ved. You WILL need hot glue to put them back in the event all these compone nts are good. However you can flip the sweep board up and check the connect ions without pulling the HV wire. You can also look for bulging caps withou t pulling that wire.

t some stock left of these transformers. (also the HV splitters go bad, the y might have them) Too many people have had trouble with eBay parts so that might not be the best idea.

I can walk you through the alignment procedure. Actually it is pretty cool but you do need the original remote to do it. Physically screwing the tube in is easy but if you don't do the procedure right it takes like days, inst ead of the twenty minutes I used to do it in. there are also two types of t ubes, one type has higher gain. When you mix them you might have to do a sl ight modification to that CRT board. But even if you do need one, they shou ld not be that expensive anymore. It just gets labor intensive.

Thanks for all the info. I haven't ruled out a cracked tube. Wanted to disc onnect the flyback and see if set would remain powered up, but doesn't look like the wire disconnects from flyback. I will also check the cap you refe rred to by the HOT. Will also check solder joints on flyback since I read t hese could be suspect. Almost hope tube is cracked for excuse to trash set, but haven't come across a broken flat screen I can fix to give to my buddy .

Some did have a second anode wire that pulled out of the fly but later ones didn't. And even if it did, I had a couple that arced after they were rea ssembled, so the best plan is to remove it at the distribution block.

If you're lucky, you might just have that bad solder on the cap. The probl em with that retrace cap is that if the customer continually tries to start the TV after that cap breaks loose, it will keep overvolting and running i nto the shutdown circuit. Even with the shutdown circuit, the voltage stil l overshoots and will eventually take out a CRT or yoke unless it shorts th e HV output first shutting it down for good.

Most of the time, if the cap has bad solder, it will be burned a bit at the end. My experience is that most of these caps are still good anyway and re soldering them (and fixing the burned pc around it) is sufficient as long a s the HV trans, crt(s), and yokes were not affected.

If it is an ITC222 there is a fusible right near the flyback that provides voltage to the vertical IC, that can also cause shutdown. Actually I have f ound times when it was just the connection thereto. In fact sometime is a c onnection from the flyback. There is also another connection or resistor of f the flyback that when bad will prevent the convergence subsystem from ini tializing.

s voltage to the vertical IC, that can also cause shutdown. Actually I have found times when it was just the connection thereto. In fact sometime is a connection from the flyback. There is also another connection or resistor off the flyback that when bad will prevent the convergence subsystem from i nitializing.

Yep, remember those little red brick fuses well. And if nothing is amiss c onnection-wise, run a heat gun over the sweep board and see if it starts. There are a few electros that get lazy and I had a couple of those white op to couplers get thermally sensitive. Wow, talk about dredging up buried me mories!

Yeah, sorry about that, my google finger must of been bent to the left and didn't see the correct results. I thought the number was familar starting with the HD52 but you are right, it's one of the rptv series.

I do have to agree with someone else about what is the point, there probably are some listed on Craigs or Freeshopper that can be had for no money.

A couple years ago as a spare, I had a Sony 55" rptv, 16:9 picture but no atsc tuner, worked fine otherwise and after 3 weeks of trying to unload it for free, ended up using a sawsall on it to fit it in the garbage.

-bruce snipped-for-privacy@ripco.com

What's the point ? First of all, some people for whatever reason, simply do not like the picture on an LCD. I read somewhere that some people's eyes h ave some response up into the near UV, maybe some of that is leaking throug h and making the picture look bad to them. And a plasma, even though you ar e actually seeing a phosphor, since it works on an arc could also leak UV. I know there are UV filters but nothing is perfect.

Another major thing is they finally figured out how to work it. This is why I could charge as much as a new VCR cost to fix the old one - they were fi nally used to the menus and knew how to set the timer and all that. Don't g et me wrong, I am not against learning new things, but how to work a TV set or VCR ? No, and I resent being forced to.

This is out and out war between servicers and manufacturers. Each unit is a battle. When we lose the battle our landfills get another piece of junk in them and they get some more of our money. When we win we get the money and the landfills stay how they are.