Is there a source for NiCad batteries with solder tabs that would be suitable for rebuilding tool battery packs? The cells are about 1 5/8" x 7/8" and probably 2100mAHr.
I don't want to overheat the cells with direct soldering. Don't own a spotwelder. I want solder tabs.
Most electronic suppliers sell them. Look for tagged cells. Trouble is they often cost more than a new battery pack from the maker. However, if it is a 'budget' power drill, etc, decent quality cells can often make it work better than new. But with a budget drill make sure the charger isn't going to damage your nice new expensive cells...
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Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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Yes, but as we don't know where in the world you are it's impossible to be specific. If you are UK based try
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They sell tagged cells which can be soldered.
Normal NiCads or NiMH can be soldered without significantly affecting their performance or longevity. Score or sand the ends to be soldered and use a very hot iron, preferably a temperature controlled one, and solder as quickly as possible. I routinely use standard cells to repack my comms equipment battery packs (they're very cheap on eBay!) and have yet to damage a cell. I use normal stranded wire to join the cells together when space allows, which is about 95% of the time.
If you desire to rebuild your own packs - or have them rebuilt, E. H. Yost Battery (d/b/a Batteries America) - has the professional equipment to spot weld tabs to the "button top" battery you desire (AA, AAA, N, 1/2 N, Coin cell, C, Sub-C, D, etc.)
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They are also a reseller of Sanyo, Panasonic and Yuasa.
Here in the U.S., I went to my local Batteries Plus store and got a pair of sub-C's for my little B&D cordless screwdriver. I should have taken the originals with me, as the standard sub-C's were a bit longer. However I was able to shoehorn them in and was rewarded with increased torque and longer time between charges.
(BTW, this unit was marked 'No user replaceable parts inside'.)
They came 'bare'; but the counter guy took them in back and welded on 2" tabs for me. I snipped off the excess after test-fitting into the body of the driver. He would have welded them together had I wished. The tabs were easy to solder.
It would have been cheaper to get them on the web, but it was more convenient to snag them locally. Cost? About $3.
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