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New lamp dimmer application?

Thanks

The EMI seems to be nothing . . . but a few years ago I found the range burners were causing my computer modem to slow way down due to EMI. Took me years to figure out the stove was causing the problem . . . but I built a common mode filter for the incoming power (all 20+ amps or so). The filter is still in there.

It wouldn't be the first time the mechanical range controls shorted and caused the burner to stay full on, so the triac is no worse in that respect.

The idea that the triac, just sitting there, could decide to short has me worried too. I have a lamp dimmer in my bedroom that is one of those push on/off. I leave it on, and just turn it down all the way and it hasn't shorted in 20 years.

But there's more to lose if the range shorts so I want a double make/break switch for that.

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The silly "infinite control" they use for the stove really only manages to sense the ambient temperature and that is iffy at best. Bimetallic switch with a little heater by it is all the switch is - there is no feedback to the range element. At best, it could sense the temperature inside the enclosure and that might cause it to change calibration.

There are some stoves that do sense range element heat and regulate that, but mine doesn't.

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default

The mechanical controls have no temperature feedback either, it's all open loop.

You'll definitely want a mechanical power switch prior to the triac that switches both sides.

Reply to
James Sweet

:On Mon, 04 Feb 2008 14:03:41 -0500, default wrote: : :> On Mon, 04 Feb 2008 18:18:50 GMT, Ecnerwal :> wrote: :> :>>In article , :>> default wrote: :>>

:>>> The range is old and I use it a lot - cooking and beer making are :>>> hobbies. That last can be hard on ranges. :>>

:>>As it happens, I make beer on mine. Invested in a "canning element" 13 :>>years ago, put a 10 gallon pot on there and boil 8 gallons or so of wort :>>down to 5, no problems with the range at all in 13 years. Catching the :>>drips the exhaust fan can't keep up with and cleaning everything to suit :>>me before I get started is more of a problem. The range, and the range :>>controls, have had no trouble at all with this... :> :> Well, I'm not looking for reasons why I shouldn't do it, but how to do :> it. : :A lamp dimmer would work, if you could figure out how to add some :temperature feedback, like a thermocouple or using the element :itself in a bridge, there are lots of possibilities. : :But if the lamp dimmer is rated for as much or more power than :the element, then there's no problem, other than temp. control, :as I said. :

I don't think it will need temperature feedback at all. It would simply work the same as it would in controlling lamp brightness when used as a dimmer, ie. time proportional power control. It only needs temp feedback if you want the temp to be controlled to agree with a dialled temp setting. If the scale is marked simply 1 - 10 for example it doesn't really matter whether there is feedback or not - it is simply an arbitrary power setting determined by the potentiometer.

Have a look at the NXP app note in my post down the bottom of the thread and then look at (p.545, 546) and fig.14 and you will see that the lamp dimmer would work in the same manner, just without the zero crossing triggering.

Reply to
Ross Herbert

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