Miniature Burr?

Where there is a different footprint for a replacement item and you have to pierce the pcb, in slightly different positions to the original, to push pins through. At the moment I use a small drill bit in a dremmel and use the fluted part of the drill but its more melting by friction than cutting. I tried grinding notches around a sewing needle but that did not work. Any ideas ?

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N Cook
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It depends on what sort of cut needs to be done. I've used a jewelers screwdriver at times to enlarge a hole, or small drill bits in a drill press. If the hole needs to be a bit larger, a hand drill will usually suffice.

Reply to
James Sweet

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Ron(UK)

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Reply to
Ron(UK)

I'm not quite sure what you mean - pretty well all components can have the leads bent. If the holes are too far out to allow this a new one would be required so drill it in the normal way - or just enlarge the existing one with a suitable size drill?

'Normal' drills of this size have to be pretty soft for hand held use in a dremel etc so I have a rather nice but ancient small pillar drill bought off Ebay which uses collet tungsten types - expensive but very hard so ideal for drilling new PCBs. But far too brittle for handheld use.

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Dave Plowman (News)

to

part

grinding

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=25&products_id=96 looks interesting, scaling from 3.17mm. For £11 I assume "Diamond" means a trade name.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N Cook

It seems its bur and not burr. In the case yeaterday ultra-miniature pcb mount toggle switch with thick pins, not bendable, to go on a populated board. Footprint of 6 pins on slightly larger , in terms of centre spacings than the original, so cannot , without making a jig , drill new holes. The drill would drop into the original hole. So a matter of short radial slots out to the replacement positions. Enlarging the existing holes would require filling with glue or something for structural integrity , after soldering.

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N Cook

messagenews: snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk...

It sounds like youre choosing the toughst option. Why cant you bend & extend the pins to reach the existing holes? OIr cut off the pins that dont go and solder equipment wire to them and take them round the pcb? Glue the switch to the pcb etc?

NT

Reply to
meow2222

I use dental burr's in my dremal. W W

Reply to
Warren Weber

Reply to
Mike Berger

I think he already answered your question; too short and thick to bend. I also have questions, but appreciate that I'm not there and have to depend on the description given. For instance, the solution given (short radial slots) seems the best answer, and I wonder why they would require filling; but if it is the best answer, then what is the question?

FWIW, I'd probably use a Dremel cutoff wheel which had been 'turned down' to a nib from use. These constantly get smaller as they cut hard materials (like metal) until they are barely larger than the arbor onto which they are mounted. At that size, it might be possible to make the slots he describes.

jak

Reply to
jakdedert

Smitty Two wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.phx.highwinds-media.com:

you can make a variable speed controller by using a incandescent lamp dimmer and a dual outlet mounted in a junction box.I made one side of the dual outlet full 120VAC,and the other variable.It works fine for slowing a Dremel. you could also use it to reduce power to an uncontrolled soldering iron.

I buy carbide bits at Skycraft Surplus,they also side cut.

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Jim Yanik
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Reply to
Jim Yanik

N Cook inscribed thus:

Have you tried dental burrs. You can get them in .3mm with 3mm shank !

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Best Regards:
                      Baron.
Reply to
Baron

You want an "end mill". If you get a solid carbide type it will snap off easily in such a small size. If you get a high-speed steel type it will dull quickly with the abrasive PCB material. The second option is the more attractive, but you might have trouble finding a small diameter HSS end mill with a 1/8" shank to fit a Dremel collet (most seem to be 3/16").

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

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Reply to
Spehro Pefhany

Skycraft you say? Great Store. You must be in the Central Florida area as well.

- Mike

Reply to
Michael Kennedy

Anyone familiar with tension files, for hacksaws/coping saws eg

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I'd never heard the term , I cannot find the diameter of this stuff on any site. Anyone know what the name is for that centride or carbide embedded cutting wire that I seem to remember can be found in camping/oudoor pursuit shops.? Just for the material, if the right sort of diameter would require any ends snipped off to pass through the pcb and two chucks or something for holding the ends

-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on

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Reply to
N Cook

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Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

My Dremal has variable speed and Dremal has many collet sizes. One that fits dental drill bits that cut through and on the sides. W W

Reply to
Warren Weber

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net:

I have a Harbor Freight store a block away from me,and Skycraft about 15 miles away!

The carbide bits are $1 apiece at Skycraft for specific sizes,or you can buy random assortments,IIRC,10/$5.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
Reply to
Jim Yanik

The Harbor freight kit is a nice assortment for people to get started with, then you can buy replacements for whatever you break at places like Skycraft.

I have a Harbor Freight 20 minutes away, but Skycraft is over two hours away, which is beyond my usual driving distance. At current gas prices, I could buy several kits at Harbor Freight, throw ay over half the burrs, and still come out ahead.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

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