Looking for remote wall switch

Not in this case.

If multiple wireless switches can be installed to activate lights or appliances, then you have an N-way setup.

A diffuser?

Jamie

WTF are you talking about?

SO you're saying the "CLAPPER" which I didn't see listed, would be a better choice?

Jamie

I just saw these products in Home Despot, and thought they might be of interest...

Perhaps, but the effect is exactly the same: if light is on, any switch can turn it off - and vice-versa.

The device i mentioned needs no added wiring, and does not need a hole in the wall for the switch,which is a flat panel with a rocker-type switch.

Sounds like an opportunity for some enterprising engineer !

Ya up to the challenge ?

Hmm.

Isaac

No problem. Find about 50ft of kite string. Drill a hole in the wall switch lever. Replace the two 6-32 screws holding the switch plate with eye hooks. Screw another eye hook into the wall 18ft away. Run the string in a loop, with a weight to maintain tension. Tie the ends to the hole in the switch lever. Pull on one string, and the switch turns on. Pull on the other string, and the switch turns off. Just like a 3-way switch.

Who needs technology anyway?

Well, nobody will notice the extra hole and string. However, if want to hide the mechanism, I fishing line should be sufficiently strong and transparent.

No. I didn't offer any recommendations. While I do lead a somewhat retro-lifestyle, it's not for everyone. Most consumers have been trained by advertising to want the latest gizmos. Going against such training is difficult and for many, impossible. Best to look forward, not back.

Since this is an electronics group, a high tech electronics solution would be most appropriate. I help maintain two homes with these systems and am bidding on a third: Figure on $25,000 and up. I recommend such a system because I can make money keeping it alive which helps support my decadent and lavish lifestyle.

While the Clapper may have been a good idea in its day, todays consumer allegedly wants to have a conversation with the wall switch, in order to negotiate the conditions and terms under which the light will be activated. Nothing ever gets simpler or easier.

Incidentally, I didn't list every home automation solution. During the 1970's, I was marginally involved with the "wired kitchen" project, which proposed to interconnect all the kitchen electrical appliances. It could theoretically cook dinner for you, all automatically. The only problem was that the average housewife didn't want an automated kitchen. Project scrapped after about 3 months.

While accurate, that may create the wrong impression that it's ok to use a non dim-able CFL with a module that includes the dimming function.

If the module includes a dimming function and dims (or attempts to) a CFL that is not dim-able, you will likely burn out the CFL.

Ed

That"s it, the string kept breaking, I'll change to fish line, much stronger.

Thanks, Mikek

Sorry, I think I needed educating before I knew what the requirements and constraints of my project were! I consider myself appropriately chastised. But, I'll probably make the same mistake again. :-/

Mikek

There's always logging chain, for longer runs. :)

I just noticed that I have several motion detector wall switches on the shelf. Their maximum ratings are identical to the above Z-Wave switch. I suspect that this may be a standard rating for triac controlled electrical switches. The incandescent rating is probably limited by the filament inrush current. The 15A (1800 watts) by the code limit for a wall switch electrical circuit. No clue on the 1/2 HP motor. As I previously mumbled, if you need more switching capability, I suggest using a contactor (relay).

I just realized why you crossposted to both sci.electronics.design and sci.electronics.repair. If take the advice of those in design, and it doesn't work, the readers of repair can be expected to fix the damage. I'm not sure if that actually works, but it's worth trying.

Chuckle, chuckle. Mikek :-)

PS. All I'm switching is a 22 watt CFL. One light (only) on the circuit. The olden days 100 Watt. Now 22 watt.

I have a difficult time being serious since I've been doing everything EXCEPT electronics for that past 3 weeks. For your amusement: I'm getting too old for such things.

That's in eco-watts, where the power consumption, phase angle, and luminous output are somehow related to carbon credits and promotional advertising budget.

The problem with CFL lamps is that the power factor on most (not all) is about 0.5. That means your 22 watt CFL bulb is actually consuming

I have an EcoSmart 150 watt (42 eco-watts) CFL bulb hanging in the shop controlled by a motion detector wall switch that probably uses a triac. The maximum ratings are identical to your proposed 3-way electronic switch. It's been running for about 1.5 years and has so far failed to blow the circuit breaker, incinerate the switch, or burn the house to the ground. Please note that this is a rather substantial endoresement as most devices do not survive very long when I'm involved.

As long as you don't try to switch more than 34 CFL 22 watt lights, the switch should work.