Looking for help with Sony PVM 1351Q Monitor

Hello, Looking to get my favorite monitor back up and working away again. I had been using it non stop for a few years, and just before I had to move, I went through a period of about a week where after it would be on for maybe an hour, the blue gun or signal would just drop out. I could immediatly power it off, turn it back on and the blue signal would be back, but then would cut out again in a few minutes. If I let it fully cool down, I could maybe get an hour out of it. Jump ahead a year later after it was in storage. It still has the problem, although last night I timed how long until it would drop out, and it lasted about 4.5 hours. Let it sit turned off most of today, and it's running just fine now for about 3 hours, but I suspect the drop is coming. I had opened it up about 3 months ago, the main board was dusty, the usual stuff. Took a can of dustoff and a small vacuum cleaner to it, so at least now the insides look nice, but are still taking a dive. I don't know the vintage of the monitor, picked it up surplus from Seagate in about 2002, they must have had a few years prior (they are very good at getting brand new gear every year and surplusing everything else out..) I'm taking a wild stab and thinking it might be some caps that have aged out. There's a surprising lack of great numbers of components on the mainboard, so I'm not nervous about just changing them all out. Just wondering if anyone out there has had the same symptoms, or have seen this in any service doc's as a known problem. And last: If anyone has a copy of the service manual/schematic that they be willing to sell a copy of, I'd be interested. Please reply to this newsgroup or leave an email address and I will send a reply. Thanks!

D.

Reply to
DougD
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Use a heat gun, and freeze spray on all the components in the power supply, and scan areas to start with. The work your way through the video path. You can try working in sections to start with. Eventually, you should get it down to the component that is the cause. The fault may be a cap, or any other type of component that became temperature sensitive. Don't rule out cold solder connections, and the possibility of the CRT itself becoming intermittent. I have seen all kinds of things cause thermo problems.

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JANA _____

D.

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Reply to
JANA

I did try using the cooling spray on it while it was in the state of the blue channel just having dropped out, no results. But to do it properly, I should go back and try using the heat gun to see if I can force it into that state by localising the defect. And being that it is a fairly sparse boards, it won't be a big problem to reheat any of the solder joints. It's just been a bit of lazyness on my part as it's a rackmount unit and it's a bit of pain to pull it out, and I have 4 other monitors of the same family to fall back on, so it's never been a situation of being completely down...yet... Thanks again for the good advice, and reminding me about trying the heat gun. I've had one situation where I was using the heat and cool method and the heat provided just enough energy to cause a catastophic failure in a large passbank laser power supply, so I suspect I may be a bit "gunshy".. Well, now to go search out some canned cold. I'm up in British Columbia, and since moving here from the US a few years back, it kills me when I see what they get for stuff like that here. A simple can of low quality dust off goes for $12-17 here, just insane.. On the other hand, in the few moments when I look up from the monitors, I'm looking out at mountains and ocean that looks like something from Natl. Geographic..poor me..wasting away editing video..

Thanks! Doug

Reply to
DougD

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