Identification for onboard switch needed (Receiver Pioneer A-331)

"dave the drongo "

** So WTF is it any good for ?

** I never use WD40 on electronics.

Just mechanicals like pots, switches and connectors.

Intermittents in ICs and other semis seem to be totally impervious to the stuff..........

... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison
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It's sure expensive, but it does a pretty good job on old wafer switches and pots. I'm sure it's just a mixture of solvents with some organic acid, but it doesn't smell like any of the common ones.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 

160 North State Road #203 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

hobbs at electrooptical dot net 
http://electrooptical.net
Reply to
Phil Hobbs

The original Cramolin Red formula, and older DeOxIt products were reportedly made with oleic acid (which has a long history of being used to remove oxidation from brass, copper, etc.). Reportedly, DeOxIt now uses a different organic acid (perhaps less prone to result in corrosion of the metal if you fail to flush it all off or neutralize it).

The DeOxIt 100 formula seems to be a "pure" (or at least high- concentration) version of the acid, with some red dye in it and with little or no solvent added. Probably not the best choice for contacts that are contaminated with grease or oil, unless you flush 'em first with a solvent.

The "clean and deoxidize" aerosol squirter is somewhere around 5%, with the rest being solvent and propellant. It does seem to work, given some time to act... I squirt it in, work the switches a few times, let it sit for a while, work the switches again and then flush it out with a "zero residue" contact cleaner.

Reply to
David Platt

The original formulation of Caig Deoxit was called Cramolin which had some oleic acid in it. Oleic acid is good for removing oxidation from the contact surfaces. Commonly available on eBay. Mixed with almost any volatile organic solvent, such as Coleman camp fuel (naptha), it makes a good contact cleaner. Red dye is optional.

The problem is that oleic acid slowly attacks copper if left in place for too long. So, after I apply the contact cleaner and wipe the contacts, I then wash off the acid with some solvent, usually 90% rubbing alcohol.

Note the comments on the use of WD-40 as a contact cleaner.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

I used Tarn-X on brass fingerstock with no ill effects noted. Non sudsing ammonia works as well and costs a hundred times less, fyi.

I have used Cramolin Red liquid, from the same shelf as my pure Freon liquid. I now have the DeOxIt Red, and Gold. I use Red on pots, Gold on contacts and jacks. Only if I can't clean them by vigorously cycling them.

Reply to
dave

**Dismantle the switches and clean with De-Oxit?.
--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
Reply to
Trevor Wilson

"Trevor Wilson"

** Stupid, wrong advice.

De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.

.... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison
** Stupid, wrong advice. ** De-Oxit = Cramolin = snake oil.

You've obviously never used the stuff.

I've been using it since the late '70s. The Red does a great job lifting the film from tin- and nickel-plated surfaces. The Gold does as nearly a good job on gold-plated surfaces.

The 100% solution is not a lubricant. And I make no claims for its improving sound quality.

Reply to
William Sommerwerck

**Try using the stuff sometime. It does what it is claimed to do. Naturally, the spray stuff is useless, but the type that you paint on, leave for a few minutes and wipe off works very well indeed. Switches I treated many years ago have long outlasted new replacements.
--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
Reply to
Trevor Wilson

** Dismantling switches in order to merely clean the internal contacts is plain nuts.

The stuff does NOT do what WD40, CRC 2-26 and a host other similar fluids do in seconds - without any disassembly, waiting or need to be wiped off.

It is not a grease solvent, not a lubricant and does not penetrate.

Snake oil mixed with turps would do better.

.... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

Those who have used Cramolin, et al, for its intended purpose can safely ignore Phil's rants.

Reply to
William Sommerwerck

I spray it onto cotton swabs and stick that into noisy jacks. I hesitate to use it on pots, but will try if I can't get them to quiet down with my loop of string wrapped around the shaft, so I can vigorously work it, so to speak.

Reply to
dave

**I agree. However, in certain circumstances, there is simply no other way.
**Correct. It does a much better job. MUCH better.

**Never tried snake oil. De_oxit/Cramolin works extremely well however.
--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
Reply to
Trevor Wilson

** But in 99.9% of case it is not needed at all.

** No it doesn't.

** No it doesn't.

It merely has snob appeal.

Only fools bother with that.

... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

**Perhaps in your experience that may be true. In mine, not so. That said, my last bottle of Cramolin lasted 20 odd years. Less than 10ml. It went a long way and reconditioned a lot of contacts. For the rest, I used regular spray stuff.
**Again, IME, it does. I've tried pretty much everything on the market. Including WD40. Have you tried De-Oxit or Cramolin?
**Again, IME, it does. How did you use it?

**Nope. I use what works.
--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
Reply to
Trevor Wilson

I must be a fool to enjoy removing the oxide layer from a conductive surface.

RCA jacks can get pretty grotty. Does DeOxit/Cramolin improve the sound? I don't know, and I don't care. I do think it's common sense to keep contact surfaces clean. These products can be the difference between a jack/connector interface working and not working.

Reply to
William Sommerwerck

A jack in frequent use self burnishes.

Reply to
dave

Good point. But not all plugs are continually removed and inserted. The control jacks & plugs on my amplifiers need cleaning every six months or so.

Reply to
William Sommerwerck

"William Sommerwanker "

** Silver and gold plated connectors do NOT form oxides and even common nickel plated ones barely form an oxide layer under normal room conditions.
** Most any hydrocarbon solvent followed by a bit of polishing with an oily rag would do as well.

A little WD40 (or CRC 2-26 or Super Servisol etc) on a cloth does it in a blink of the eye.

But one may not feel as *HOLY* afterwards as with the super expensive pink goop.

Fools and their money ........

... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

Would that process increase the wearing out of the pot ??

Reply to
Rheilly Phoull

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