Identification for onboard switch needed (Receiver Pioneer A-331)

"Jens Herrmann"

So you used an evaporative contact spray like Freon or IPA.

IME, usually only of short term benefit - if any at all.

Try some WD40 or similar spray lubricant - seriously bet it makes all the switches work again.

... Phil

Yes evaporative, but I had to open the switches to apply it.

I would prefer to replace them as the switch mechanism inside did not look very well.

Jens

WD40 works in seconds with no disassembly.

Been working near miracles for me, nearly every day, for 40+ years.

... Phil

Even robbing a salvaged one is problematic as the plastic body of those sort of switches can only take the bare minimum of soldering heat before they start to deform. Can you wire in switches to somewhere that has more space and can take more conventional switches , assuming you cannot find an exact replacement. I've burrowed inside similar switches and I would say they are next to impossible to rebuild, even if you can safely get them apart with their sub-mm parts

Have you tried contacting Pioneer's parts department in your area?

--Tim

Hey Phil, How does the WD40 go for pots ? I have always thought it was short term and destructive.

But be very careful with linear faders as it can dissolve the grease that gives them a nice feel - if possible, open them up and clean the track and wipers with a rag and small brush dipped in WD40.

... Phil

WD40 is known to delaminate pc boards.

Digikey or Mouser should have those. I have a bunch on an intercom control panel..They aren't that rare. Half the battle is finding the correct nomenclature.

DeOxit Red is what I use for rotary pots. Deoxit Gold for switches and jacks. They make a DeOxit for linear pots, but it often makes things worse. Use a swab with Lubriplate, after careful diassembly and cleaning.

going by what looks like broken pcb in that photo, then likely mechanical damage to the switch, chemicals will not remedy that

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That works, if you don't mind doing it again in about a month. The residual oils left behind by WD-40 seems to turn to sticky gum. Try it yourself. Spray some WD-40 on some glass and let it evaporate. Check the oil after a few weeks of exposure to air. I used some microscope slides with various contact cleaners. Only WD-40 became sticky. Note that the "electrical contact cleaner" term was removed from the WD-40 can at some times in the 1970's. The company also introduced a product designed specifically for contact cleaning, which contains NO oils: If you want to break loose frozen controls, I have no problem using WD-40. However, for contact cleaner, I use something else.

"Jeff Liebermann= IDIOT "

.... Phil

It kills cockroaches too.

.... Phil

Dammed if I can find a single job it is any good for.

It has almost no penetrating ability and is a poor grease solvent.

WOFTAM.

... Phil

"Phil Allison" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

What about CRC 5-56, how dya reckon it compares with WD-40?

"Geoff"

Almost 40 years ago, I used CRC 2-26 for the same jobs as WD40.

.... Phil

D100 has no solvents. That is why you can't use it on your greasy electronics.