Fluorescent starter-switch question

"Tegger"

... Phil

"Phil Allison" wrote in news:9mprnlF391U1 @mid.individual.net:

Thank you.

But why the listing of three discrete wattages, rather than an upper-and- lower range of wattages?

"Tegger"

... Phil

"Phil Allison" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

So I can safely use this multi-rated starter for my 15w fixture?

"Tegger"

... Phil

al.net:

See - we treat you just as nice here as on alt home repair.

" snipped-for-privacy@att.net" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@a17g2000yqj.googlegroups.com:

Appreciate that.

Last time I posted here was many years ago, in relation to a microwave oven. I was roundly scolded by somebody named "Sam Goldwasser", evidently because I had posted an ignorant question.

"Phil Allison" wrote in news:9mqvhnFst9U1 @mid.individual.net:

An update: It turns out that the failure was almost certainly /not/ due to the starter, so it's a good thing I didn't blow $4 on a new one. I removed the starter from the fixture for testing purposes, leaving bare wire-ends on the bypass circuit.

I tried three bulbs, two brand-new. Plus I tested the tubes' filaments for continuity. All tested good, and all worked in another fixture.

I also tested for continuity within the fixture where it seemed logical to see it. I assumed I'd find an open through the ballast, which I did find.

But I guessed that when the ballast was fed with (a measured) 123VAC, I'd see something similar across the wires where the starter was, but all I found was 2.5VAC. That appears to be not enough to strike a spark, and no spark was had, no matter how slowly I brought the wires together.

My guess now is that the ballast is bad. In any case, I went to Walmart and bought a near dead-ringer of my old GE unit for a whopping $13. So this matter is done. Thanks, Phil.

nd

Except for the fact that China got another dollar out of the deal and Walmart got twelve. Lenny