Dead Compact Fluorescent Examination

check out wotshisname... sam repair faq ?, might have some info, all is aasscciii schematics as well

martin

This might have some info for you:

Dave.

Cool thanks..I clipped this off that link:

"Inrush Current: As noted above (and below), most CFL electronic ballasts have a rather high initial inrush current, which can easily exceed 5A and often a lot more. This current is limited in some electronics by one component - the main filter capacitor. "

D from BC

Those CF lamps are highly overrated. They last a long time if you leave them on, but switching on/off leads to a premature death. I really can't wait until LEDs replace them.

"D from BC"

** What was significant about this to you ??

BTW, that page has lots of my pics and test results.

........ Phil

I believe the high surge current explains why I can hear arcing from the wall switch when I turn on the screwbase Philips Marathon CFL. I have to wonder how hurtful that is to the wall switch.. It's just unnerving to hear (fingernails on a black board effect) and it makes me wonder about stresses in the CFL circuit and question it's reliability. I mentioned the switch arcing noise in case it might be linked to the CFL failure..Noise>high current>component Isurge heat damage.

It looks like a small (nonelectrolytic) box cap burned in the Philips CFL.. There's lots of soot.. I'm just pissed that the electronics apparently failed before the tube. Anyways..it's in the trash. Some archaeologists 10 000 years from now can dig it up and figure it out. Thought I'd post about it in case somebody knew tales of crappy CFL's. D from BC

Ahhhh.... I don't recall seeing that warning on the package. Bastards!!! :( "Warning: Turning off the Philips Marathon CFL can result in premature failure.." :P

The CFL was my kitchen light.. It got turned on and off daily. I've replaced it with a screwbase 60W halogen. That should last a long time..

D from BC

"D from BC" "Phil Allison"

** One CFL is not gonna harm it.

A dozen would though.

** I have measured CFL inrush peaks of +/- 20 amps on 240 volt power. ** The peak is brief - a few milliseconds duration. ** Polyester caps can release an amazing amount of smoke. ** Very common.

The parts are all stressed over their makers ratings and operated at high temps.

The Chinese makers only care it lasts a couple of thousand hours - as no one times the life span and very few come back to the shops that sell them.

** Check out these links:

........ Phil

Thanks for the links.. Interesting reading.. D from BC

On a sunny day (Mon, 16 Apr 2007 20:09:30 GMT) it happened D from BC wrote in :

These bulbs do not like intermittent mains. Check your mains wriring for bad connections.

...

"Energy Saving Bulb" brand Item# UB204 Model EDXO-18/19

20 watts doesn't even say where it was made.

3 out of 4 failed at turn-on within a dozen times turning on,

1 must be mfgr defect because it has worked for at least a year.

Cracked one open without opening up my thumb at the same time.

6 small caps, one big electrolytic 6 diodes 4 resistors 2 transistors 1 larger transformer, one ferrite bead transformer, one choke no visibly incinerated components

Haven't started trying to diagnose and repair it yet. Have had other brands where one worked for years and the rest died at turn-on within a dozen times turning on.

Made in Bokiamia.!!! :) (Inside joke from unrelated thread created by Boki.)

It just surprises me that for something that seems like a good lighting solution... has a bunch of rotten apples.

I discovered more parts all the way down at the bottom of the screwbase of the Philips Marathon CFL!!! Another little circuit board.. Kinda looks like afterthought design work or clever heat sinking into the screwbase... Or the designer ran out of design room on the main PCB. I think I saw a resistor and some SMT resistors on that little PCB. I didn't feel like pulling out the pcb for a better look.. Interesting to see those cylindrical SMT resistors in use. The ones that roll off the PCB if not soldered. D from BC