it most likely has a sealant between the front and plastic case to prevent vibration at the seem, which is common with that type of construction.. These things will stick like mild glue..
With the screws half way, wrap the unit in a soft wrap of some kind like foam rubber so you don't scratch it, rest it on a pillow and use something like a piece of wood to hit lightly against the screws that are half way out.. The shock should push on the plastic behind and break the bond!.
Ha! I was just about to come in with exactly the same observation, and you beat me to it ! Quite a few of these powered speakers follow that general style of construction, and it's common for something like the self adhesive draught excluder foam strip that you fit around door and window frames, to be used to form an airtight seal between the ally casting and the heavy plastic case. It's not uncommon for this stuff to stick like a bitch when it's been clamped up in that joint for a few years. If there genuinely is just the six screws holding the front to the case, then likely as not, the answer is just going to be brute force. Is there even the tiniest gap that you could perhaps get something like a wide wood chisel into to see if you can spring the plastic away from the metal a little ?
Arfa
"William Sommerwerck" wrote in news:i6rkjd$uaa$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
Wow, I certainly DO appreciate you explaining it to me!
Sigh.
It's a standing joke on that group Michael. "Angle grinder" is the 'silly' answer when anyone asks for instance how to dismantle a ceramic cartridge shower valve to clean it, or anything referring to a 'delicate' job. British humour, and all that ... :-)
Arfa
It's a standing joke on that group Michael. "Angle grinder" is the 'silly' answer when anyone asks for instance how to dismantle a ceramic cartridge shower valve to clean it, or anything referring to a 'delicate' job. British humour, and all that ... :-)
Arfa
I wasn't explaining it... I was acknowledging it. Clever.
On 9/15/2010 12:51 PM bob u spake thus:
Thanks for the first and only really helpful reply in this whole damn thread.
You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. Sure enough, removing the nut from the phone jack allowed the whole unit to slip rather easily out of the case (I used a heavy knife blade betwixt the case and chassis to start it).
The amp appears to be fine; there's either a problem with the XLR mike input jack, or with the mike cable we were using. (Can't test because I have no XLR plugs.)
Thanks again.
On 9/15/2010 1:03 PM Ron Weston spake thus:
Heh; I'm totally not familiar with this device (almost old enough to be, though), so when reading this I had visions of splitting open a 14-pin DIP with a chisel, fixing it and gluing it back together.
Now *that* would be some repair.
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The allied problem (Mackie powered speakers particularly) is long lazy thread screws jammed into the plastic close to the point of shearing if undoing them. I made a heated long shaft screwdriver for this, soldering iron heater slid over the shaft.
Yeah no kidding.
And you still don't get American humor. ;-)
I feel stupid for not suggesting removing the nuts on the phone jacks. I've seen this done sooooo many times.
I can't remember the last time I saw a phone jack that *wasn't* soldered to a circuit card.
"William Sommerwerck" wrote in news:i6s0m2$c04$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
OK. Sorry. :-)
Oops! Sorry! %-# !!!
Not that clever, really, I was very depressed and suicidal for most of my life. Recently I have been feeling better, but that's another subject.
David Nebenzahl wrote in news:4c91a6a6$0$2405$ snipped-for-privacy@news.adtechcomputers.com:
WHAT? You did NOT do that when you removed all the screws? I have not been reading the thread carefully ever since you ignored my request for a photograph, but DUUH!
WHERE are you (as in, forest, garage with NO tools, an audio shop run by Scientologists who believe the e-meter is the only piece of electronic test equipment anyone needs) ????????
SIGH.
BTW, I have learned over the last 4 decades that it's ALWAYS the cable (and if it's not, you **still** test any cables FIRST before you do ANYTHING, including attempting to open an audio box [when you should let your friends open your canned food for you] let alone flooding an NG with clueless posts for a week), and /had/ you posted like a person with a clue, I would have told you to try another cable - I know you don't have one, BUY one!
!!!!!!
Welcome to the club. I have a very morbid personality. The German Requiem -- especially "All flesh is as grass" -- is my idea of light, frothy music. The compensation is that I have a terrific sense of humor, which seems to go with chronic depression -- qv, Brahms and Lincoln.
I would never try to talk someone out of their depression. There's often a good reason for it, and drugs don't solve the problem.
In the world of professional audio, it`s hardly ever the cable!
That depends on the quality of the materials and who made them.
Professional quality cable, professional quality connectors and professional quality workmanship.
Ron
There is a wide variation in all three.
On 9/16/2010 6:57 AM Arny Krueger spake thus:
Oh, so I guess that means I'm *not* a total retard, eh? Thanks for that.
Me neither. Now that I've disassembled this it makes perfect sense, as it allows the amp to be put together in a neat package with no external wires except for the power cord.
With the 6 front-panel screws and the phone-jack nut removed, it's actually *very* easy to disassemble. Not a hard nut to crack at all, like so much other plastic-packaged electronics.
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