From time to time, I come across an article about CD roms, etc. What I have learned so far, CD-R (I use) is better than CD-RW for long term storage of important data. Also, how they are stored can have a bearing on their "life".
I keep CD roms in a dark cool location. To test the integrity of my "burned" CD roms, I use "Finder" (search engine) I downloaded from
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I "search" for a non-existant text pattern such as "i don't exist" in order to get "Finder" to read through every file on the CD rom as a way to check for corrupt data. Note: "Finder" has reported read errors on some of my floppy disks. So far, no read errors were reported. However, I started burning CD roms about 4 years ago.
Is the integrity of commercial CD roms better than those I "burn" at home? How long can we expect to keep our CD roms, assuming they are stored in a good environment, before we begin to encounter corrupt data?
Thanks in advance, Brad
Before you type your password, credit card number, etc., be sure there is no active key logger (spyware) in your PC.
The simple answer to that seems to be 'no-one knows for certain'. I've read
10 and 25 years, but I take such claims with a pinch of salt. Just look at laser discs, some of them were inherently faulty and developed 'sparkles' as they deteriorated over the years. Unfortunately, it seems no data storage medium is even close to perfect.
Apples to oranges. Factory discs are not burned, they are pressed (i.e., molded) in the desired pattern. Writeable discs use dyes which are fixed by the laser light to store the pattern. Hence, pressed CD's don't generally degrade from subsequent exposure to the wrong kinds of light as do burned discs. Extending the topic a little to DVD's, there is an unfortunate phenomenon known as "rotting" which occurs even on factory discs. This happens when defective bonding leads to layer separation.
It varies. Assuming identical storage solutions, the main difference is in brands used. But even that's hotly debated. You'll find users of the cheapest crap on the planet proudly proclaiming their discs have lasted 5+ years, while others wouldn't touch them with a ten foot pole. Brand loyalty comes into play as well. If you loved your old verbatim floppies, you might want to stick with verbatim CD's, etc. I personally buy name brand cakeboxes that offer the best value at that time. Usually, they end up being TDK and Maxell, both of which have produced very good magnetic media over the years and I have no prob trusting either company's CD's.
As a general rule of thumb with optical media, you should back up the most precious data at least once a year. That includes DVD's. Data you can afford to lose might get backed up once every few years. There's enough evidence to clearly indicate the hype when writeable optical discs first came out was utterly bogus. Your recording will last a hundred years!!?? Pretty funny.
This is certainly true. I think the cool storage is fine but it should also be dry. Dark probably doesn't matter that much as long as there isn't much UV.
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One thing i learned recently about optical disks disturbed me. I had always taken the most care to protect the data side of the disk. I found out that the most fragile side is actually the one with the label. It's the one closest to the actual media. A scratch there--one which might not even glitch a reader if it were on the other side--can expose the metallic layer to corrosion.
Yeah, and a piece of sticky tape may pull it off entirely on CD-R/RWs! :(
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That's why I've never used CD-labels. I used to label my CDs directly with permanent OHP pens, but now I use specialized CD pens. (I think the price is about the same these days.)
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I would think that a CD label would be a GOOD thing, as long as you don't pull it off (and why would you?). It would be a barrier against the inadvertent scratches that happen during handling. Yes? No? It would also tend to keep ambient light out of the disk - or at least the side that is normally stored upward, facing the light.
Some of us don't have the advantage of a dry climate. Here in Arizona things are usually quite dry, for example. But I have half of my DVDs stored on the coast in Maine, where it is quite humid at least 9 months of the year. I assume it would be helpful to put my DVDs in some sort of waterproof box - even a big Tupperware box - and toss in a couple of the "Do Not Eat" silica gel packets that come in bags of rice crackers and other crispy foods?
The adhesive on labels contains solvents which may compromise the CD's coating over time, or even break it down altogether. I personally would never attach anything sticky to my CDs or DVDs, least of all my most precious and irreplaceable ones.
Sure. I'm not sure how much it matters but the metallic film is very thin and may not be totally protected if the overcoat on the label side has pinholes, which are quite possible.
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It's possible. Some solvents will make the coating literally peel off on its own.
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Labels aren't permanent and can cause a variety of problems; among the ones I've seen are causing jamming in slot-loading machines, and clamping problems in regular tray or carousel models. On a regular machine, if any adhesive migrates a bit, the disc can stick to the clamper and also cause jamming problems.
This reads every file on the CD-ROM (drive D:) and copies it to the NUL device, ie into the bit bucket. The results of each read are recorded in readtest.txt.
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*You* may not pull it off, however, your 68x SoopaDVDCombo drive may well do that, in passing. The resulting mess will not be pretty. I've had labels start to peel at the edges. The discs were clean, the labels not "handled" at the edge. The discs were well stored.
Fortunately, the disks had a rhino hide coating on them that allowed the label to be soaked off. I've stopped using labels since. I just don't trust them to stick properly!
To the poster talking of "Finder", running a program to read all the data is one way of knowing that it's TOO LATE for some of your data.
However, you can get an early warning of impending failure by using a PROPER utility like Nero CD-Speed. This will run over the disk and show you a count of C1 and C2 errors. On most disks you get a handful of C1 errors (low level) over the disk. And maybe a C2 error or two. These aren't a problem. If you scan a disk and get hundreds of C1 errors, or handfuls of C2 errors, then your disk is on the way out. Copy it ASAP. You get a feel for what is "normal" after running CDROMS, CD-Rs etc. through the drive. A really bad "C-GRADE NONAME CDR" will look like the side of a mountain, as the C1 error count starts off and ramps into the THOUSANDS.
This scan is done BEFORE you get to the state of data corruption where the OS is sitting there saying "File error". Error correction is a wonderful thing, but could be hiding the fact that your data is g=tting v ry fl ky ind%!d.
Mike.
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Mike Brown: mjb[at]pootle.demon.co.uk | http://www.pootle.demon.co.uk/
I've seen a set of CDs "helpfully" labelled with 3-M PostIts[tm] to aid identification: "This CD Works" "This didn't boot" etc.
After removal of the PostIt, most of them could be labelled with "This Is Now Scrap" "Another Coaster" "Look At The Cool Blue Window In This CD" as it pulled the metallisation right off.
This is not normal for CD-Rs, however, somebody forgot to lacquer coat the shiny side of the disks, and that would be why they were so cheap. Penny pinching purchasing department strikes again.
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